Bbr Super 180

Hi .

I’m contemplating the Bbr Super 180 although it’s quite an investment. Long term I’d like ITBs but figure the exhaust manifold is the first thing to sort. I have 2014 2.0 sport tech NC at 100k miles.

Just unsure if the 180 is going to be a worthy investment on its own, a little more torque at low end would be welcome as well as additional exhaust note. Just not sure what additional driving benefit this will really feel like?

Anyone with the upgrade keen to share?

I could spend the same £ on some wheel upgrades which may be more noticeable in several other ways…

Bit stuck as the notion of the restricted header is causing me dilemmas in a technical front (can’t let it lie :slight_smile: )

Also wondering if I am better to get a standalone ecu and header then I will be in a better position to install ITBs if the opportunity arises.
Although limited tuner shops where I live.
Cheers for any thoughts/experiences
Jason

If you want value for money then forget ITB’s

I had my lasyt car with a manifold and full exhaust and induction kit and remap

My current car, just a remap gained 10Bhp and 10% torque increase right across the range

All tunes appear to rely on the change of the exhaust manifold. Why not do that before ruminating on what other direction to go?
It’s expensive and a pain to do. If DIY it can be a nightmare and if done professionally they charge appropriately😀 I’m thinking of this DIY but you could be off road more than you like.
Exhaust side spannering with heat damage problems is to be expected

Thank you-do you mean you expect removing the existing manifold to be a pig based on removing bolts and access? I would be planning diy, it looks tight but doable…

Wise words,get a pro to fit it

Thanks ITB maybe just a fantasy :slight_smile:

Hi Richard - that’s interesting-do you have any more info on the remap for 10bhp - seems like a quick win

I’m always up for DIY. But videos on replacing the exhaust manifold are rife with stuff that will hang you up.
The likes of BBR will have tools to do this in their time-frame learnt over time. If you do attempt your self you just get used to being off the road a bit.
Not having a pop. You just need to give yourselves some time if your DIY

Thanks Beryl I’ll give it some research :+1:

It was done by Croft Power at Ledbury. He also removed the 1st and 2nd gear throttle restriction. He uses a hub Dyno.

I have known a couple of NC owners who have given up on ITB’s, just never managed to get them effectively balanced.

Hi Beryl,

Just wanted to thank you for the heads up and managing expectations in time to fit. I’m nearly there now but took a steady approach and have been off the road for a few days. Will aim to post a few findings once done .

Definitely a 2 person job for some aspects to ease the process.

Jason

Start with the exhaust manifold, catted or de catted, its abother thing to consider. I have recently had a decatted manifold, free flowing back box & a remap. Expertly done by Performance Link in Tewkesbury.
It really is the a good starting place for any further Performance mods you then might want/need/fantasise over. My car ,2015 NC 2.0 certaibly feels so much more eager after<> 4k revs & will rev out much more happily.
Yes, this stuff is expensive & its really is worth buying good quality kit as well imho, but , for me , it is a justifiable & worthwhile investment.
The problem is, i am now dreaming of 2.5ltr conversions & supercharging…where will it end? :laughing:

How much did it all set you back?

IL motorsports decatted manifold & backbox, ecutek license, rolling road remap
All that work done by PL £1700. You can, of course get cheaper remaps done on line etc & cheaper kit

I have the 185 BBR optioned with a high-flow catalyst and midpipe cat with GT rear box.
This is effectively an ecutec reflash of the ecu coupled with a tune and a stainless steel manifold with sports cat and a very nice sounding rear box (not deafening)

How much? cant remember and its probably now more than what it used to be.
Worth it? Absolutely and undoubtedly f. yes! Its the first thing I have done and I have spend over 16k on my car. The noise it makes every single time you drive it is worth every penny.

However I would refresh the tires first before doing anything else. Then look at the brake system. Refresh fluids in the gearbox, diff and brakes. Depending on your intended use for the car, decide on suspension and geometry and if you will track it I would invest in braided hoses and use MOTUL RBF 600
Then engine and exhaust mods and if you will be spending this much you probably be looking to get it professionally undersealed so it will last.

ITB’s and more power… forget about it. IMHO not worth it. With a tune and a full exhaust on a 2L duratec you get around 189 bhp and 160 lb-ft. its more than enough for a small two seater.

Just a wee update. All diy done, took my time over a week, here are my specific findings above all which has been widely posted in you tube etc.

Soak all bolts with oil for a few days
Before removing manifold.
Remove the bolts from manifold to centre pipe fully cut them if you can’t remove.
Remove the 2 under braces which are in the way, mellens has torque settings for refit.
Transverse member.

Remove the bottom manifold bracket and o2 sensors.
Remove gasket.
Loosen alternator and remove plastic back cover.
Have 2 people one under one on top and work together to deed it out.

With the Bbr going in, wait till it’s in before fitting bottom o2 sensor.

Oh and 7/8 is almost 22mm if you need to destroy an old ring spanner cos your o2 socket is still in the post :joy:

Anyhow hope this helps anyone else.
Sound is terrific and seems more willing esp 4k to 6.5k rpm.

Map was straightforward - just waiting for log results.
Oh and a variety of sockets spanner’s and ratcheting spanner’s are needed for the variety of positions to get the manifold bolts.

Thanks for all the forewarnings and comments.

Cheers
Jason

Thanks for posting the update and your experiences👍

I’ve just started on mine. I intend that all bolts can be removed, or cut and re-placed before I even get the replacement mainifold. My first ‘fail’ is the 10mm bolts holding the heat-shield! I banged on a 3/8” imperial which is a tad smaller for those damaged by heat and moisture, but that failed too. Not a great start but at least you can keep your car running with a bit of fore-thought! Or abandon the idea completely.

I’d love to know what kit the likes of BBR use to do this job at a fixed price and time frame!

Anyways, well done that chap!!!

Do you mean 7/8" which is 22.2mm

Yes! My error 7/8