Hey Guys,
I’m looking to change my MK3 Manifold. I’ve heard good things about both the BBR and the I.L Motorsport. Is one better made than the other?
I was told that the BBR has no bottom bracket which could become an issue?
Has anyone fitted a new manifold and not remap their ecu ?
With the general consensus being the manifold is the best upgrade, I’m just wondering if it’s worth fitting it alone.
Seems daft spending upwards of £400 on a manifold and not remapping.
The support bracket of the original cat manifold can be removed and tacked on to the new if using RB etc.
If you want to avoid an EML light you will need to relocate the 2nd O2 sensor to a position after the midpipe cat.
Radiant heat from the new manifold will attempt to cook the rear side of the alternator so some additional heat shielding would be wise long term. The Track Dog Racing heat shield is good but expensive in this regard.
In regards to tacking the bracket would this need to be welded on?
We use Racing Beat manifolds and have done so since 2007, they don’t have bottom bracket and have NEVER had an issue…we have new manifolds in stock if you need one
Paul
I know it’s pedantic, but technically they should have a cat, I don’t know anyone that failed but by rights shouldn’t they all be an instant fail?
I went for the BBR with cat, ordered it Thursday.
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New mot rules if it was fitted from factory it as to be there …if removed instance mot fail even if it passes co2 bbr now sell with cat for road use some friendly mot testers may turn a blind eye…but if spending that amount off money I would not gamble…
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I would say that it is quite possible an MOT tester could “miss” that. I was an MOT tester at Mazda main dealers for 20 odd years, 99% of the cars I tested were Mazdas. If for example an Audi came in I would have no idea about the factory exhaust system and if it had a catalyst in a certain position, so without being certain I couldn’t fail it, it’d have to be a pass and advise. I think that’s why the Testers Manual uses the word “obviously” quite a lot.
On an Audi which I didn’t know I’d pass and advise, If it looked like there should have been one there, on an MX-5 which I do know I would probably have to fail.
I’ve been off the tools for 3 years now so am a bit out of touch with the new MOT regulations, but it doesn’t say “obviously missing” does it?
…But the “rule“ was always test to the manual, not to what you know.
One could argue that as the Testers Manual says that the inspection only applies to components that are visible and identifiable, or words to that effect, then if a component is missing then it’s not visible therefore doesn’t apply to the test…
The ins and outs of an MOT discussion could go on for years. The DVSA or whatever they’re calling themselves at the moment don’t write the Testers Manual over a couple of pints…
Off to where? 
It’s a very grey area because as said above if you didn’t know for sure you would pass & possibly advise, the MOT course also says you ‘must not’ use product knowledge…so again if it was to have a cat and pass the emissions test on what grounds should it fail?
I’m not saying it’s right or wrong just a very grey area
I agree with all said my point was if you were unlucky to get a tester who knew and you just paid 200/400 pounds for a decat manifold and it failed your car is of the road not sure but I think it is recorded so you cannot take it to another tester trying to sneak it through, did not BBR offer to replace none cats they sold for there cat version if that happened then some customers most have been caught out…I guess if you were going to do it now are the cats fitted to the new manifolds dummies but for mot reasons it looks like you have one
Oh dear, got me a bit worried now, just had a BBR stage 2 fitted, Neil did say he had removed a Cat, but I’m not sure which one. He said it would pass the MOT but to make sure it was good and hot first. So even if it passes emissions it could still fail on not being standard?
No problem.
Im sure Neil will sort it out. He has asked me to come back to sort out a back fire problem which he said might be sorted by going back to the standard exhaust system, so might sort out 2 problems with one stone.?
Pretty difficult to hang a turbo on the side of the original cat manifold.Bbr have probably fitted a freer flowing mid pipe and possibly back box. Both these items on the original car suppress the backfire noise. Once the ecu is recalibrated to fuel mods be they NA , Turbo or Supercharger the pops and bangs appear.
Yes Stage 2 turbo. It was Neils idea to go back to stock exhaust, so i guess he knows what he is doing. If i lose 20/30 BHP, so be it. I don’t mind the pops and bangs on full throttle but its when my other half is pottering down to Tescos its more of a problem.
Yes i certainly enjoy it, one of the few cars I’ve owned that i take out just to enjoy the drive.
Ive never been clear in my mind why this should be so. I had a turbo charged kit car with an Omex 600 and this never popped or banged at all despite getting near 100bhp more than standard.
I bought an IL motorsports manifold in the end. I’m not that bothered regards to MOT as I can get thst sorted.
I believe an extra extension is needed for one of the sensors on the manifold though, on top of the one that is supplied with the manifold? I know it can be cut and wired but someone said you can buy the extension?
Davy_F, as Scarletpimpernel said I’m using the IL Motorsport manifold combined with a Cobalt rear silencer and not been for a tune. At the end of the day, its your choice to have the tune or not. For me it was justifying what I was getting for the extra £500 or so. I did find a Dyno map of this combo showing before and after tuning but unfortunately I didn’t bookmark the page and I’m struggling to find it again but if memory serves me correct I think the extra power gain was about 7bhp…I could have this wrong but I’ll have another search later.
For me having been using the car for a few weeks now with the roof down, I’m kinda thinking its borderline too loud for around town but the burbling sure is nice…
Adz, yes the pre-cat sensor cable wont be long enough. Easiest solution is probably to cut and re-solder some extensions in. The extension supplied is for the post-cat sensor which you will have to position as in the IL Motorsport diagram supplied with the manifold.
Good luck with the install. My advice would be take your time, if nothing else its all a bit fiddly!