I love the way my NC drives. Only the wheel gap is a bit big. I have thought about buying stiffer suspension from the likes of Bilstein or MeisterR or whatever. But after having read a lot about the way the MX5 is supposed to communicate with the driver (for example https://arstechnica.com/cars/2015/09/the-case-against-grip-as-evidenced-by-the-2016-mazda-mx-5-miata/ ) and the fact I am no pro driver I actually don’t want to eliminate roll. I do want the wheel gap to be a bit less. And I’m ok with a very slightly stiffer setup but not more than that. Also, I don’t want to go the route of the lowering springs as that makes the suspension under damped and suspension travel less.
So, I was thinking of the optional stock Bilstein setup. However, I have not been able to find how much it lowers the car. I keep only finding information about after market Bilstein setups. Also, I found some drivers apply Bilstein B6’s as shocks. But to me it’s not clear how close they are to OEM spec. Can anyone tell me something about the optional Bilsteins and aftermarket B6’s? Or other good options?
I don’t know of any method of reducing suspension height without reducing travel. If you use shocks with adjustable spring platforms with standard springs you could lower the car and reduce the gap but you will reduce the travel. With standard springs you may also find that with the car fully loaded it will hit the bumps stops a lot quicker than a car with stiffer springs. I think that you will find that the Eibach lowering springs have very little effect on the ride comfort of the car but even so, without the stiffer Bilstein shocks as used on the “Sport” versions you will tend to hit the bumps stops a lot sooner with a fully loaded car.
I think that there are only a couple of ways of achieving what you are after:
1: Tyres with a higher profile - This will probably compromise the steering and handling, and will also affect your speedometer accuracy.
2: Bigger wheels with low profile tyres (if you can get them for the MX5), but again will probably compromise the steering and handling, and will also affect your speedometer accuracy.
As well as reducing the wheel arch gap the options 1 & 2 above will also raise the ride height of the car.
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I wouldn’t recommend that you do any of the above.
Wheel spacers, wheels with a greater offset or wider wheels may reduce the apparent size of the gap but again effect steering and handling but to a lesser extent than in 1 and 2 above but the only real solution is to lower the car.
I was not aware that the NC2/Mk3.5 had a lower ride height than the NC1/Mk3. Somebody else may be able to advise if this is so.
I think the real reason for the large wheel arch gaps on the stock car is the fact that Mazda recognises the fact that the majority of owners (of a certain age) appreciate the softer ride given by softer (and longer) springs but also that many owners (of a more sporting bent) will want to lower their cars. The large arch clearances allow the suspension to be lowered without causing problems with arch clearance on bumps/compressions especially at the front whilst cornering. The car will hit the bump stops before tyres will rub on the arches.
The problem with a lot of sporting saloons with smaller wheel arch gaps (such as some BMWs, Audis etc) is that if the owner wants to lower them, then they have to fit much stiffer springs to stop the tyres catching on the arches even on moderate bumps. My son had his M series BMW lowered and the ride was ridiculously hard. He had to refit the stock springs before his back gave up.
If you believe what you read then all the European and UK nc’s were factory fitted with longer springs to meet E.U. pedestrian impact regulations. Apparently all other markets had shorter springs, a lower ride height and reduced tyre to wheelarch gap. Thousands of UK owners have just fitted shorter springs from Mazda itself Eibach or one of the others, kept their original shocks and gone away happy in that it looks better, rides and handles much the same or better. You should find someone near you with a car modified like this and what it feels like. Only then can you decide which path you want to take, but stiffer standard springs, if such a thing exists will probably change the whole ride and handling characteristics of the car. The Bilstein suspension of the NC Sport is often criticised for harsh ride, bottoming out and other problems, other love it.
In there a user links to a topic that discusses the difference in wheel gap but unfortunately this link doesn’t work and I have been unable to find the topic.
I had the stock Bilstein suspension on my 2010 SportTech. Ive fitted the following parts;
Meister coiloversÂ
ILMotorsport upgraded anti roll bars (new droplinks all round too)
25mm hub centric wheel spacersÂ
I’ve  retained OEM wheels/tyre sizes. I love the look of the car and no ill effect relating to tyres scrubbing on the arches. Car is definitely stiffer but not adversely affecting the ride quality. It was already on stiffer suspension previously. What I need to get done is a 4 wheel alignment, just to make sure I’m getting the best out of the alterations  Body roll not eliminated but car does corner significantly flatter than before the modifications. I’m happy but also understand that it’s not for everyone.
RimRingz are the ones I have. They rely on mechanical fix, rather than adhesive tape. Not cheap but so far they are fine. They fit between the tyre and inner side of the rim, google them. Would I buy again? Probably not, I managed to crack one when fitting ( I didn’t follow the instructions fully ) and a single replacement was about £25 delivered! Although at least I could buy a single one.
Hi there - I know exactly what you mean about the gaps, and I suppose it’s just about how much it bothers you, as making a NC1 look right whilst avoiding a harsh ride isn’t cheap, in fact it may be cost effective just to change up to a NC2.
I did just this myself and, once I’d changed the wheels and tyres to gain a nicer ride, have not regretted it for a second.
Thanks. Yep, they are the ones I would get if I were to get some. “Rim Blades” do not fit the standard ND wheels properly (from experience) and I would have thought that the self adhesive ones would be as good as useless unless you just use them to hide existing damage.
Hi Colin. Could you explain why the NC2 is better? Did Mazda change the wheel arches from NC1 to NC2 (which I would have thought would be very expensive for a facelift model) or did they change the suspension geometry? It is puzzling why after changes to the NC2 model to reduce the gap Mazda reverted to large gaps on the ND!
As far as I know, and no doubt someone will chip in with the actual facts, the NC2 did have some small revisions to the suspension. The geometry settings that are listed for NC1 and NC2s are a bit different, so this bears it out.
In regard to the OP’s question about an NC1 looking right without being too harsh a ride - maybe lowering an inch and then fitting 16 inch wheels with their higher profile tyres would do the trick ?
Just to point out though…lowering the front roll centre is not the same as lowering the suspension (using shorter springs). So I would not have thought that this would impact the front arch clearance any if at all.
“In regard to the OP’s question about an NC1 looking right without being too harsh a ride - maybe lowering an inch and then fitting 16 inch wheels with their higher profile tyres would do the trick ?”
I think that 16” wheels with a bigger profile tyre, are the same rolling radius as a 17” wheel with the lower profile tyre? Probably look different due to the amount of rubberÂ
Thanks for your reply. Though just to be clear, I don’t mind a ride being hard on itself. I’ve had a Civic with 7k front and 5k rear and a stock DC2 which was also harder than this. For me it’s about following Mazda’s philosophy
I had the same problem with my 2007 NC Icon, especially after a front spring had to be replaced after it broke. The garage fitted a standard pair of springs and the gap between wheel and wheel arch looked much too big, I did wonder if the first owner had specified the lower springs that I believe were available at the time the car was ordered new so when the replacement springs went on the car had the 4 by 4 look. I quickly invested in a set of Eibach 30mm shorter springs, had them fitted and what a transformation. The car now looks so right, the ride and handling are hardly changed and the result is I am very pleased with the decision to make the change.
