I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __'Failure of Electric Boot Lid Release.
I have owned my MX5 since new and this is the very first time that I have experienced this particular issue.
Although the boot release responds to mechanical activation, ie, utilising the key , at the rear location, or via the central armrest ‘lever’, the boot will not now open from key fob activation. Initially, I gave the lock mechanism a squirt of the, ‘cure all’ WD40, which appeared to cure the issue, for a couple of days, but sadly, no longer!
With the boot raised, operating the key fob button generates a definite, ‘click’ response from the area of the ‘solenoid’, but nothing more.
I understand that I’ll need to remove the moulded, interior trim to investigate further, but just wondered if anyone might have experienced this problem and likely, ‘next steps’, as it were?
I did search through any previous topics before raising this, but couldn’t spot anything, apologies if I’ve missed something obvious!
Thanks in advance,
tyton11
Richard FX,
Thanks, yes understand all that, as thirty-seven years in International Motorsport, (I know, you should have known better then!!!) . Bit of a ‘lazy panic’, I’m afraid, but no excuse.
MX5 is at the, (inevitable) bodyshop, at present, however, when I get it back, my plan is to remove the moulded panel and further investigate the problem. It may well be that your WD40 / Brake Cleaner recipe sorts out the issue - once bitten and all that.
Thanks and I’ll let you know the outcome,
tyton11
If it’s any help we have much the same problem with padlocks on the gates of our Allotment site. They get wet and muddy from mucky hands. Helpful souls then spray
them with wd40 which we have told then not to use and they just clog up. Our ever helpful locksmith recommends a thorough cleaning, we use brake cleaner, and a small circular brush or pipe cleaner to remove as much of the muck as possible and then spray with either a graphite or ptfe spray. This works well until the locks once again get clogged up and sprayed with wd40, we just keep repeating the cycle usually every 6 months or so depending on the weather. People seem to think that wd40 is the cure all but in reality it either doesn’t work or causes further problems.
Good point
I used a cheap generic battery in my keyfob last time. It wasn’t great when new and lasted no time at all.
I replaced it with a branded one and it works perfectly.
Buy cheap, buy twice…
Thanks for your suggestion. The key fob battery was my initial suspicion ; however, on the MX5 NBFL 2.5, the boot lid , ‘signal’ is independent to the door opening and those were working absolutely fine. I did change the battery though, but with no impact on the boot issue. As I mentioned, I can hear the boot solenoid click, so suspect the dreaded WD40.
Once I get the car back from the bodyshop, I’ll pop off the trim moulding and investigate further - watch this space…
Thanks again
tyton11
For “lubrication” I tend to use good old fashioned 3 in 1 rather than WD40, although I do have some of that too in the garage… Obviously 3 in 1 does eventually run off, so I also have some grease that works too. Different products for different uses.
Hello Bettabuilda, Many thanks for your suggestion. You might see from my other replies that the battery was the first thing I checked; even though the door release mode was working fine , plus, as I mentioned, I could hear the boot solenoid ‘click’ as I pressed the key fob release button.
Suspect the mechanism might be , ‘gummed up’ with cured WD40 - when I get the car back from the bodyshop, then I’ll pop the moulded trim and check - hopefully an application of brake and clutch cleaner might sort the problem?
Thanks again for youe reply,
tyton11
Thanks for your input - the car is being collected from the bodyshop this afternoon, so I’ll be removing the rear trim moulding for further investigation. Hopefully, application of brake cleaner fluid and 3 in 1 might , ‘fix it’.
Thanks again,
tyton11
I now have my NBFL Mk.2.5 Sport back from the bodyshop, so have been able to carry out further investigation relating to my Boot Lid Release Issues. I hope that you are sitting comfortably!
Just to skip through my initial post information:
The boot lid does release by either the central armrest lever, or the rear key lock.
Both the driver’s and passenger’s doors lock and open by means of the keyfob signal.
The button battery was replaced in the keyfob.
Suggestions were raised that the application of WD40 may have exasperated the problem, therefore the boot,rear trim moulding was removed and the locke mechanism liberally washed out with brake clean; the various lock mechanism components were then lubricated with 3 in 1 light oil…
Using a multimeter, I ascertained that upon pressing the keyfob boot ‘button’ , then voltage was fed to the boot release solenoid.
There is a small, black electronic component included in the boot release circuitry; it measures approximately 20 x 20 x 10 mm and is marked - B110 DC12V NO IMASEN 4G 06 I assume this to be a signal actuator , as upon each depression of the keyfob button, there is an audible ‘click’ from that unit, which can also be felt.
The unit connects to a white terminal block , which carries 2 x red wires, 1 x Blue/Brown and 1 x Orange.
Whilst I was measuring the voltage at the red / black solenoid wires, it appeared that initially 12.0 volts were available, whcih dropped with subsequent button presses, even though a trickle charger was connected? Possibly the unit contains a capacitor, which discharges with subsequent keyfob button presses?
Confusingly, whilst I was taking voltage measurements, the solenoid was activated and the lock actually ‘opened’. Subsequently, on four consecutive, manual closures of the lock mechanism, (withy the boot open) the solenoid continued to activate and open the lock. However, that siutation ceased and I was back to square one, as it were, with the lock not releasing, even though the black ‘activator?’ continued to, ‘click’!
Even though I have a Haynes manual, the section relating to the boot release is not that well explained. Additionally, although there is acomprehensive Wiring Diagram, for 2000, NBFL cars and beyond, which includes a specific diagram relating to the Central Locking, there is no wiring shown for the boot release solenoid, so alittle in the dark.
Therefore, little progress has ben made, excepting for that brief period where everything worked. Any further suggestions would be gratefully received - I’m hoping that a Mazda Technician might reda this and expalin what my problem migh be.
Thanks for you patience, et cetera!
Hello Roadster_Robbie, Many thanks for taking the time to respond to my rather long winded post, it is much appreciated.
To answer your question, then , many, many years back, I completed a Motor Vehicle Apprenticeship and during that time I carried out several volt drop tests, typically related to battery and starter motor issues. I then worked at Cosworth for thirty-seven years , initially with dyno testing, then worked up through the company.
The problem that I have with your suggestion relates to the fact that I don’t have a wiring diagram for my NBFL Series 2.5 Sport. I understand that typically the ground wires are black colour, but there doesn’t appear to be a convenient place to tap into the ground wire - with the other lead from my mul-timeter going to the negative battery terminal , presumably? Again, I’m assuming that I’m looking to read 12volts?
Perhaps you are able to assist with a further question; should I just go, ‘blind’ and purchase a new actuator, (which is against my training), then would I be correct in thinking that a new actuator would not respond to my existing , boot release button input? I had a feeling that actuators and key fob signals are , ‘paired’ to prevent the opportunity for any MX5 Owner to open any other boot, or even door?
I appreciate your assistance and I’m open to further MX5 Specific ‘education’.
Best,
tyton11 (Malcolm)
The wire colours that you’ve stated don’t match the wiring diagram that I have. Can you confirm the last 6 digits of your VIN number please? Could it be that the wire colours are Red/White, Blue/Red, Orange and Red for the relay and Red and Black for the actuator?
The system consists of a trunk lid opener relay which should have 4 wires and a trunk lid opener actuator which will have 2 wires.
My gut feeling is that the actuator is at fault, but no harm in proving it if you want to do some testing. The actuator is not coded to the car, you can just plug a new (or used) one in and off you go. It’s the keyless unit that controls the actuator that is paired to your transmitter.
Hello Robbie,
Again, I thank you for your assistance regarding my boot lid opening issues.
The last six digits of my VIN are - 412732
Having carefully revisited the associated wiring, then the following are what I appear to be seeing! ::
As you state, the actuator / solenoid has just the two wires, red and black. As for the Relay , then I now agree with what your wiring diagram shows, i.e. Red / White, Blue / Red, Orange and finally Red… Quite likely that there might have been slight colour fading over the past seventeen years, or maybe my eyesight!
I am also definitely guilty of mixing up my terminology, that is - I’m referring to the Actuator, rather than your correct Relay; similarly, my use of Solenoid is your Actuator. I can now understand why you state that the Actuator can be simply be, ‘plugged’ in. Likewise, it makes complete sense that it is the keyless unit and Relay / ‘Transmitter’ that are paired.
I’ll just confirm, once again, that when the appropriate , ‘boot button’ is depressed on the keyless unit, then the Relay can be heard and felt to, ‘click’. Further, just to repeat that whilst carrying out voltage checks, on four consecutive events, the actuator actually functioned and released the boot lock - sadly, unable to repeat that further!
Sounds very much like I better take a seat and contact MX5 Spares for price and delivery of an Actuator Unit.
I’ll certainly let you know how I get on,
Have you checked rhe individual wires for continuity?
It’s very possible one of them is broken inside the insulation, which would fit with working again and then not working as the broken ends touch and then part again.
I would check the wires between relay and actuator, as the relay appears to be working OK.
Hello 999to5,
Many thanks for taking the time to respond to my ‘Key Fob, Boot Lock Actuation’ Issue.
I accept that your hypothesis is possible and nothing should be ruled out at this stage, especially by myself, as I would under no circumstances claim to me a MX5 Boot Relay / Actuator expert. I understand that the copper in electric wire can work harden, over time, which would support your suggestion; against that would be the fact that the Actuator and Relay are positioned behind the moulded trim panel and are unlikely to be subject to any bending force - additionally, both components are pretty well supported, as is the short, wiring length… Another concern would be the fact that although the red and black cabling from Relay to Actuator might be easy to check, then the connection of the two additional pieces of the wiring jigsaw is a mystery, especially as I have no access to a wiring diagram; even the Haynes type, in the, ‘manual’ appears to disregard that a Relay, or Actuator even exist!
Further, as might be understood, on every single attempt to open the boot, by means of the Key Fob access, then the vehicle and components were in , ‘static’ mode, with no associated movement of the wiring - even during the very short period between the Actuator working and not , then I, in no way disturb the wiring.
At one point I did suspect the actual Key Fob, for as you will be aware, there is a dedicated , ‘button’ for the boot release. However, the very fact that the Relay exhibits an audible , ‘click’ to each , ‘button’ press would negate that theory.
It would be stupid of me though to ignore any, well meaning suggestion though - a definite problem though, would be to gain access to bare wire at the Actuator end, especially as the very end of that wiring is not exposed .
The frustrating mystery continues, I’m afraid - if only I had a spare Actuator available to me . Now to contact MX5 Spares for price and availability!
Many thanks, again , for your suggestion - I will definitely advise how I overcame the problem, if I ever do!
The Orange and the Blue/Red wire at the relay should both have a permanent 12 volt feed to them. This is easily checked with a volt meter, check the 12 volts with the boot release button not pressed and during boot release operation.
The Red/White wire goes to the keyless unit and should have 12 volts when the boot release is not operating. When the boot opener button is pressed the Red/White wire should momentarily drop to zero volts.
The Red wire should show zero volts with the boot release not operating and change to 12 volts when the boot release button is pressed. Check this a both ends of the wire.
The Black wire from the trunk release actuator should always show zero volts whether the boot release button is pressed or not, that’s the permanent ground.
Depending on your test meter (is it digital?) it may be hard to see the momentary readings as the meter may not be able to react fast enough. If you’ve got an oscilloscope then great, if not an analogue test meter may show the voltage pulses better.
Another test for the actuator itself is to just apply battery voltage using jumper wires to the terminals directly and see if it works. Apply 12 volts to the Red wire and ground the black wire direct to the battery.
To bench test the relay, supply 12 volts to the terminal with the Blue/Red wire, ground the Red/White wire and check for zero resistance across the terminals with the Orange wire and the Red wire.
Hello Robbie,
Thank you so much for sending me those Relay and Actuator Tests; this, by far, is the approach that I would prefer to carry out, rather than just, ‘throwing’ components at the problem, in hope that a cure might be effected.
It is indeed interesting that you include that momentary power supply to the Actuator, which is something that I’ve been considering, as it would be pointless spending good money, should the Actuator be electrically , ‘sound’
As with yourself, quite a deal happening here, so although I’ll be able to carry out that direct power feed , (and Ground) to the Actuator either today, or tomorrow, the remainder of those checks might have to wait until the weekend, when there might be a further pair of hands available !
Unfortunately, my multi-meter is digital and I don’t have an oscilloscope, but I’ll do as much as I can with what I’ve got.
Thank you, once again, for your continued assistance, which is greatly appreciated. I hope you don’t mind if I post results, as they become available?
Regards,
tyton11 (Malcolm Tyrrell)