BR-P MP62 Supercharger belt and pulley wheel replacement

Technical Area Forced Induction & ITB
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The supercharger itself is maintenance free but its belt and tensioner pulley wheel may need changing. Here’s how…

These simple tips relate to the earlier BR-Performance MP62 Supercharger kit imported from the States from around 2000 onwards and popularised by P5. BR-P no longer trade but the Eaton supercharger on which the kit is based is still widely used.<o:p></o:p>

My car has the manual belt tensioner and billet aluminium housing although later kits installed by P5 used auto tensioners. Auto tensioners seem quite expensive but are better.<o:p></o:p>

To replace the belt, first slacken the adjusting bolt and carefully withdraw it from its housing. Undo and withdraw the tensioner wheel retaining bolt taking care not to lose the back piece that the retaining bolt attaches to and which slides in the billet housing. If it drops down on to the oil tray it will be a pain to find! Loosen the belt over the supercharger pulley wheel and remove for inspection. <o:p></o:p>

My MP62 has a 6 rib serpentine belt which can be obtained from your local motor factor.  The original Napa belt (part no 25-060415) can be purchased on Ebay (but it didn’t fit!!) so I bought a Gates 6PK 1053 which did.  Belts are available in many lengths (1053 is the length in mm) so measure the old one first.  Fit the new belt to the bottom crank wheel and slip it over the supercharger wheel.<o:p></o:p>

The tensioner wheel supplied with the kit was manufactured by Fenner in USA (part no FA 4502).  Contact Fenner UK in Leeds for a local supplier.  My wheel has an adaptor to facilitate attachment to the billet aluminium housing (that which houses the slider adjuster) using the 17mm bolt retaining bolt.  If you need to replace the wheel, carefully tap out the adaptor, clean grease and press into the new wheel.  Installing the wheel is the reverse process of removing it.<o:p></o:p>

My pulley wheel is flangeless and the belt does sit to one side rather than centrally so its worth checking from time to time.  Tension the belt to allow a small amount of slack on the long side.  Ideally get someone in the know to advise correct adjustment.<o:p></o:p>

Hey presto!<o:p></o:p>

                                                                       

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Go to my Cardomain page and I have put up pictures of how I changed my pulley.

I also have pictures of the auto tensioner I fitted.

Click on “The Beast” in my sig.

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Great car Badger!  Beautiful shine.  You’ll gather from my postings that normal service has been resumed with my BRP62.  However, I’m interested in your auto tensioner set up - where to obtain and cost?  Cheers Phil

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I got my auto tensioner from Stage One Tuning who sadly do not operate anymore. They also supplied my new pulley. The number one guy there was James who helped me out constantly. Do a google on Stage One Tuning and James comes up with a post on another forum.

I originally had the manual tensioner and I found it impossible to get a belt that worked with it. I either had a belt so small it would not go over the pulley or it would go over the pulley but once over became so slack the manual tensioner could not get it tight enough. I’m so glad I got the auto tensioner.

 

 

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Little Badger - roughly how much for an auto tensioner?  Agree issues with belt choice- manufacturers do seem to make them in a vast range of sizes.  Picking the right one is the trick but an auto tensioner is easier and cuts out adjustment, the lack of which probably explains why mine wore so soon. 

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 I should have the paperwork at home so I’ll have a look later and report back.

The static tensioner on mine was dreadful. The belt used to sit unevenly on the wheel to the point that a small portion of the belt was actually off of the wheel.

Jackson racing do a version of a auto tensioner for their supercharger. Is there a possibility of converting it?

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 Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vctV_LtjXc

http://www.daycoaftermarket.com/UK/EN/tensioners.php?country=GB