Hi, front brake callipers on my mx5 2.0 sport 2010 are a bit of a mess, I changed brake pads recently (first time doing this myself - slowly trying to learn how to do these things for myself) and noticed the piston seals are split as well as the seals for slider pin and the callipers are a bit of a mess in general so I’m planning to remove them completely and send off to be fully refurbed.
I did have a totally newbie question however about the the brake lines and fluid… what is the best way to deal with the brake fluid when disconnecting the line from the calliper to remove the calliper to then send them off? They’ll be disconnected for about a week until I get them back. The lines are braided stainless steel if that matters (I saw one YouTube video where someone was clamping the line to quickly change over, but thought that may damage the line…)
Can I just allow the fluid to drain itself out into a container via the disconnected line, and then
add new fluid later when I reconnect the calliper and line. If so any tips of the procedure and how to properly bleed the brakes/replace for new fluid later, having never done that before I don’t want to cock it up
no do not pinch them but when you refit they will need bleeding. brake fluid shouldn’t run out from the pipe but if you want to minimize loss use a screw with nut and two large washers (maybe use copper washers if you have some handy) to prevent oil leaking out
Check out Autolink, they have refurbed (Mazda) calipers ready. Buy your caliper and return the old one within 60 days, refunded surcharge on returning.
You then have a caliper ready to fit when removing the old.
No, don’t clamp the SS flexis. I plug the the end of the flexi pipes with golf tees when removing calipers to minimise fluid loss and suspend the ends up as high as possible.
Hi all. So I started this job today by removing the callipers and sending them off to be refurbed. I now have the lines disconnected, I didn’t have anything to stop fluid leakage but was intending to flush all fluid anyway. I have left the lines hanging, with some trays underneath to catch fluid, I tried to raise them up slightly, but having checked to master cyclinder that is now looking empty. Is this having drained empty going to cause me any problems - one YouTube video I watched suggested not to let it get empty?
Can anyone give me some further pointers on the best procedure going forwards for correctly topping up the fluid and bleeding the system once I’ve received my callipers back and reconnect them and the brake lines? hopefully I haven’t already made a cock up at this stage!
Here are the Mazda Service instructions for Air Bleeding the brake sytem. There is no mention of cycling the ABS system as I have see on various Miata.net posts. Most garages will use a pressurised sytem which connects to the Master Cylinder and forces the new fliuid into the system. Similiar systems are available for DIY use.
You should also bleed the cluch system at the same time as chances are that the fluid in there is the original stuff.
Mazda MX-5 Miata Grand Touring
2008 BRAKES Conventional Brake System - MX-5 Miata.
AIR BLEEDING
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. Be careful not to spill any
on painted surfaces. If it is spilled, wipe it off immediately.
Brake fluid type
SAE J1703, FMVSS 116 DOT-3
Remove the bleeder cap from the brake caliper, and connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder screw.
Place the other end of the vinyl tube in a clear container, and fill the container with fluid during air
bleeding.
Working with two people, one should depress the brake pedal a few times and then depress and hold the
pedal down.
While the brake pedal is being held down, the other person should loosen the bleeder screw using the
SST , and bleed any fluid containing air bubbles. Once completed, tighten the bleeder screw.
Tightening torque
Front: 6.9-9.8 N.m {71-99 Kgf.cm, 62-86 in.lbf}
Rear: 6.0-8.0 N.m {62-81 Kgf.cm, 54-70 in.lbf}
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no air bubbles are seen.
Perform air bleeding as described in the above procedures for all brake calipers.
After air bleeding, inspect the following:
Brake operation
Fluid leakage
Fluid level
NOTE:
Keep the fluid level in the reserve tank at 3/4 full or more during the air
bleeding.
Begin air bleeding with the master cylinder and then continue with the
brake caliper that is furthest away from the master cylinder. Finish by
bleeding air from the master cylinder again.
As you may have drained your master cylinder you might like to consider letting gravity bleed the front brakes, it takes some time but may be a viable option for you.
After you have fitted and connected the reconditioned parts put a ‘bleed tube’ on each front nipple and place the ends in a container and open both nipples. Fill the master cylinder with fresh dot4 (leave the cap off) and sit back and wait. Just as gravity emptied your system it should now oblige and refill it. You can watch the progress by looking at the level in the master cylinder as it goes down but it is important to not let the level go down too far or you will let air in and undo the good work already done.
Once fluid is coming out of the nipples close them off and do a ‘normal’ bleed on all 4 callipers. And as suggested why not do the clutch at the same time while you have all the equipment out.
Just as I do full refills, in fact I leave it overnight withe a length of tube coiled up once on each bleed nipple to form a trap, air is driven out but the brake fluid stays in. Then bleed as normal.
