Brake Disc & Pads

  1. My model of MX-5 is: __1.5 ND SEL
  2. I’m based near: Northern Ireland
  3. I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __Are there any pitfalls in replacing rear brake discs and pads with non Mazda Parts?

No you should be fine, id personally stick to pagid or brembo or another known name brands. That’s just me.

I did use apec a while ago and got a bit more brake noise and had to grind them down to get them in.

Mines an NC but I’d still apply the same rule.

Unless you want more grip like for track days then that’s a different question all together.

The front pads were replaced about 4000 miles ago with mazda pads.
I am only replacing rear brakes this time and I did worry about possible differences in sizes, contact area and weight having an effect on balanced braking. Silly I suppose since even mazda parts on the front and back are different anyway.
Have to get back to the garage about what I want to do today.
The garage owner also said that unless go out on track days I would be ok, so your reply gives me confidence to do whatever.

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Hi,
this link may help explain the ratings for road use.
https://ebcbrakes.com/ece-r90/

Opps! rear wheel brake lock-up, tail spin!!.

I do tend to overthink and I may be here too.

I really would have to trust the garage (possibly with my life) to use good parts to meet correct standards .

It also occurs to ne that maybe use of non manufacturers brake parts may be considered a modification by my insurer and affect my insurance if not notified. Overthinking gain?

If its just for daily use then in theory you can fit anything you like (as long as they are designed for that vehicle).

Its just rear pads and discs, not to worry, just drive and enjoy .

As mjdlfc says, any that are type approved will be just fine. I managed to wear out my Mazda rear pads on a track day, poor planning on my part. However the great guys at Mazda menders were there and fitted me some new ones but as it was late in the day only had budget ones left.
Five years later and a couple more track days and they are still in and doing great. No noticeable difference even on track at my skill level.

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The EBC article does seem to put more of an emphasis on care when replacing front discs and pads, and from the replies it looks like I can confidently deviate from my usual practice of Mazda parts only. Not sure if I will, but I now am reassured re non OEM brakes and have a decision to make.

Thanks to all responders, much appreciated

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Are you having an issue with the standard discs? I have a brand new ND and obviously it is all standard, but I must say that the car stops very well. Not tried it on a track, where you could get overheating and therefore fading of pressure (which is also related to the brake fluid getting hot and losing performance), but for normal road use, they seem ok.

Couple of questions - how old is the car? Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years as it can get moisture in it and this will decrease braking performance and give a “spongy” feel to the pedal. So I would get the brake fluid changed if the car is a few years old.

I would also look at the brake lines and check they are all ok and that the fluid reservoir is to the correct level.

Ensure that you get exactly the same size discs, as you will have fitment issues otherwise and if you change discs, always change pads at the same time.

There will be a difference in braking performance in aftermarket pads (which as a consumable item, along with discs - so does not affect insurance, as long as it follows regulations, which decent ones should), especially if they are used on a track for example, as they will have a better resistance to heat fading.

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Car is 5 years old and serviced to Mazda schedule, so brake fluid changed every 2 years. At recent service rear brakes problem was brought up.
My rear brake problems arise from being parked up in drive way and low mileage throughout 1 year of lockdown. Rusting of discs, seized pads and loud clunks on drive off.
Heavily tracked disc from probably torn and damaged pads. Suppose it would have been better to chock car wheels and leave handbrake off when parked up through lockdowns.

Just as a side issue, a little play was reported on a rear suspension part. Not sure which of the 5 linkages, so hopefully not the ones with concentric bolts for camber adjustment. Anyone have the suspension geometry settings for a 2016 1.5 ND (16" wheel)

Freaky Parts

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Which rear suspension part?
There’s plenty on here, and YouTube about one of the rear hub bushes failing, so hope it’s not that, as apparently it’s not replaceable. (though I don’t understand why)
A complete new rear hub is required.
Hopefully someone will come up with a replacement bush, and a procedure for changing it.

It is one of the multi suspension links at each rear wheel. The links all run at different angles. Each link has one end fixed with a ball joint at the other end. Two of the links have concentric bolts at their fixed end to facilitate suspension geometry wheel alignment adjustment. The slight play is at a ball joint of a link. I appreciate that this deviates from the brakes issue, but the suspension section will not allow new topics so that I can get the suspension geometry settings for my 1.5 ND sel lest it be one of the links that have adjustment bolts

There isn’t any ball joints in the rear suspension of the ND, only rubber bushings. Only the drop links to the anti roll bar have ball joints.
There’s no point in checking or adjusting the alignment until the bush with play has been changed, as any measurements will alter as the car is being driven.
Bare in mind there’s a difference between play and excess play, and it depends on which bush has play as to the effect any movement will have, and that some bushings are designed to move or deform as loads are applied.
You need to find out which bush it is.

Thanks Overdrive I stand corrected. The rear suspension is multilink with 5 links each side that have rubber bushes. I do need to find out which bush it is.
Am I right in believing that only 2 of the links are used for adjustment to the suspension geometry and replacing rubber bushes on any of the 3 other links should not affect current alignment?

Sorry I didn’t mean to be short. I’m no expert on mx5’s, there’s many on here with far more specific knowledge than me, - I’ve only recently got my first Mx. I do have an Automotive Engineering background though, and a lifetime passion and interest for things motorised and entertaining :grin:.
I think, but stand to be corrected, that the two links that control toe and camber are adjustable using eccentrics. I’m not sure which two though.
I also think that the bush that usually fails is in the hub, and not (according to Mazda) replaceable. I’m not sure why, but it could be that there’s too much risk of pressing it out incorrectly and damaging the hub.
Have a look on YouTube and see if there’s anything on there.
If there’s enough play to warrant mentioning it should be easy to find which one it is using a large screwdriver or pry bar.
Hopefully someone with actual experience of this will chime in.

I do not have an automotive engineering background and I am always prepared to be corrected. Your initial reply was welcomed and not seen as short.

In my ignorance I am confused at to where this hub bush that usually fails is.

Is it one of the 5 rubber bushes at the hub end of each of the 5 links, is it a single central hub bush of rubber (or metal) or is it somewhere else?

Afaik it’s one of the bushes in the hub. Some on here have had hubs changed under warranty, some have paid. I don’t know how common it is, or if Mazda have re engineered the part.
Try the search, or google it. Apologies for not being able to provide links, it was back in January I was researching and my Mac history doesn’t go back that far. Iirc it’s easy to find info though.

Have a look here ND Rear Hub Carrier Issues - Technical Area / Steering & Suspension - MX-5 Owners Club Forum (mx5oc.co.uk) for some more insight into the issue.
:heart:

Looked at Mad Mac link and the images shown by Mad Malc on the link appear to show the bush on the bottom rearmost link as the problem bush.

If I have got it right this is one of the bottom two links with a spherical bolt that adjust suspension alignment.

Also there appears to be a distinct crack in the hub component that looks like a safety issue.