do i need a fitting kit, when i fit new pads? or can i reuse what is currently fitted?
all my previous cars have just had pads. i have never come accross fitting kits before
The fitting kit that come with the Pukka Mazda pads are the shims and springs to reduce disc pad slackness and therefore noise. You do not need to pay the extra for the kit.
The existing bits may be missing or dammaged with heat and use. It’s up to you.
I do remember in the 1970’s seeing installation kits that included new pins and spring clips for Girling disc pads and springs, pins and locking washers for drum brakes at a stand at the Motor show so nothing new with fitting kits.
the OE pads on mx5parts state that they do not come with a fitting kit
i was thinking of going with mintex M1144, but it does not state if they come with a fitting kit or not on the eBay listing
I’ve currently still got Mintex pads on the rear on mine, just re-used the exsisting springs and clips from the old pads when I fitted them with no ill effects, barring cutting my finger trying to re-fit one of the clips (sharp little beggers!)
Apec sell fitting kits at very reasonable prices, a good motor factor should be able to get them for you.
Regards Geoff Peace.
If you use EBC brake pads, a lot of people do, then you don’t need the kit as they come with a fitted pad on the back of the pads.
i’ve had ebc on my old punto, and didnt like them. i can get mintex m1144 for ??45? quid
Hi Rob,
I changed my front pads at the weekend and reused all the old springs and clips – a very simple job.
I have the full service history on my car and the pads were last changed in 2008. The point I am making here is after 3 years use they were still in good condition – the springs are made of a good grade of stainless steel. So I removed them, cleaned them up and also cleaned the calliper frames where the springs sit, to ensure a good seat for the springs. When you change the pads, don’t forget to use copper slip or similar grease on the back of the pads and on the spring’s bearing surfaces and finally don’t forget to grease the slider pins and the slider bolt.
Oh the pads I used were EBC’s normal street pads (£18.00 on eBay) and I did notice an improvement in braking efficiency.
Good luck with it Mike. 
I also replaced my front pads a couple of weeks ago. Bought EBC Ultimax for £20 all in from Brakes4U.
I re-used the shims, springs and clips that were on the Sumitomo pads I removed.
Lower caliper bolt was a pig to free off. Needed Halfords ‘Shock and Unlock’. A lump hammer would have been useful too.
As Mike says clean everything up and use the relevant copper or silicone grease where necessary.
Interesting to read all you guys that managed to fit the shims. When I replaced the pads I bought EBC (bog standards) but could not get the shims to fit. The calipers just would not close. I had used a G cramp to push the pistons back so that was not the problem. When I queried this with a tame mechanic I was told that the EBCs had an anti squeal backing so the shims were not needed. Copperslip was used on all the necessary bits when they were re assembled. They have been in for about a year now and all certainly appears to be well.
Hi Sheddragger,
This was one of the points I was making. It is essential to remove the spring guides and clean the calliper frames into which they fit. If you do not there is a very good chance that the pads will bind and you will experience the problem that you speak of. 
The reason is the calliper frames are made of a ferrous metal. Probably iron or a low grade steel. They rust over time and if I remember my physics lessons correctly ferrous metals when rusting can increase their volume by as much as 50% . 
What then happens is the stainless guide springs are then squeezed against the pad lugs causing them to bind. 
All I used to clean the calliper frame guide seats was a toothbrush sized wire brush. The stainless steel spring guides then fitted back in a treat and the pads moved within the guides with a silky feel. 
Hope this helps
Mike 
Thanks for the suggestion but there was no problem with the guides, all the bits fitted perfectly and the pads moved freely, it was simply the shim/pad backing plate that was too tight.
thanks for all the advice. i’ll give it a go re-using the existing fixings
“Thanks for the suggestion but there was no problem with the guides, all the bits fitted perfectly and the pads moved freely, it was simply the shim/pad backing plate that was too tight.”
Mine fitted comfortably (with the shims) with the piston pushed right back in.