Braking Problem(s) MX5 MK2 1998 1.6

Technical Area Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
2

[:)]I would very much appreciate someone’s advice on a problem with my MX5 MK2.  I noticed on braking (standard and not emergency) a noise which I can only describe (please excuse the description) like being a couple of full paint tins rolling around and thudding up up against each other (if placed in an empty boot area).

The thudding noise also includes on one occasion, a squeal (ommitting from the nearside passenger side) almost like a fan belt screeching - yesterday I had a clunking thudding rotating noise even after I braked.

I had the brake pads renewed on the rear a few weeks ago and my front ones were checked (all brake pads are oem ones) and my car is kept in top maintainance.  However, this noise appeared around two weeks ago and has steadily got worse.

I called into a garage and related this matter.  Apparently on just having a look at my car (not on the ramp or jack) parked on the side of the road, it was suggested the caliper could be seized, the brake pad was practically on ‘its last legs’ and the area was much hotter than that of the other front and rear braking.  There is no vibration or juddering while driving or braking!

The garage were told the front were checked only a few weeks ago and were fine. They told me that in their opinion, the cause of what has occurred and most likely, is the problem is due to the salting and gritting of the roads which can muck up and even corrode the calipers.  Apparently, they have been dealing with a quite a number of cars coming in with the same problem(s).

I was pre-warned the disc could have the possibiity of being damaged but until the wheel was off and things looked at in more depth then at that moment in time, the garage thinks the caliper needs cleaning and greasing and new brake pads for the front (the front were checked but apparently, its suggested to renew both front pads).

On cleaning or change of caliper, how best to look after things so this problem is kept at bay please?

If the worse scenario is the fact I need a new disc and caliper(s) then apart from the expensive oem local Mazda outlet, where I am likely to source a disc or discs and calipers.

The car is an imported R reg (1998) on a manual 1.6.

Thank you for looking at my query.

3

G’day mate, Welcome to the new Forum good to see you over here

AS to your problems, Andrew Stott at Autolink is the guy to talk to, If I remember you are down south somewhere, and he’s located near Southampton.

Link for the brakes is here

All his contact details are here

4

 And Good Day to you too…Sir!..[:)]

 

Good to meet up with you…remember you on the old forum very well!..

I have got Andrew Stott’s phone number as I have got parts off him before…but thank you for replying to my forum query, most appreciated.

 

In regard of the new forum, I preferred the old one - possibly due to the fact I was use to it and found it fine as it was.  But then…change happens and things update and we all have an opinion on whether the change is to our liking or not…Me…I guess I am set in my ways …forum wise![;)]

 

Off to work now…and under my [um]

 

xx

5

If a caliper had been sticking slighty on then there would have been a strong smell of burning brakes coming from the affected side. To test if the caliper is sticking either jack up the car and see if the wheel is free to turn. if you cannot do this then drive the car slowly forwards. If the caliper is sticking the car will come to a halt very quickly. Howver it is possible the caliper has freed itself. The sound that you hear is probably the squealers or strips of metal which contact the brake disc when the pads are worn . I suggest you get this looked at before the discs are damaged.As your car is an import do not be put off with anyone saying the parts are " different "

http://www.miata.net/garage/brakepad.html

6

 Thank you for taking the time to reply to my query/problem.

I got the car into a garage yesterday, not dealt with them before but needed to get to the route of the problem asap!

The nearside passenger side is as I suspected, just the problem area, but I had the driver nearside also looked at and checked.  The discs are totally fine.

The nearside passenger caliper was seized as the piston was found to be pitted and corroded.  The nearside driver side was totally fine.  Both pads had plenty of life in them but the nearside passenger side pad had some area that saw recommendation to get it changed.  I had both nearside passenger and driver side changed.

 

The caliper was cleaned but due to the piston condition its recommended I get either a caliper with piston or replaced the piston and get a seal kit.  According to the garage the area around the piston seems fine.

 

Bearing these two suggestions in mind, and I am currently looking into getting one or the other (making enquiry into both) what would be best - obviously replacing the caliper is more costly but then I am dealing with a braking system on a car I care for and yet if a replacement piston and seal kit suffices then logic tells me this will do fine!

Thoughts please?

Thank you

7

Get the garage to give you a quote for the two jobs. From the MX5Parts catalogue front replacement caliper are £70 exchange each while genuine Mazda ones are £119 outright with no exchange. The pistons are £13 each and the seals are £19 per side.  Garages tend to increase the prices of parts to make a profit on them. What you have done depends on the budget really. If the seals and pistons are replaced the caliper should be alright if genuine mazda seals and pistons are used

8

The problem with having seals and pistons changed by a garage is the time they will take, reckon on another chargeable hour per side. I would change the calipers

9

Also if the piston is sticking due to pitting or corrosion, then it is likely that the inside of the caliper is also in less than perfect condition.

10

 

I had a word with the garage the afternoon I collected the car.  I was told that I could either change the caliper (bare one with just a piston) or get a piston and seal kit.  I will re check today with the garage to check with more clarity on the inner part section where the piston goes.  At the time I was told this was okay, but again will need to clarify before making up my mind.
Andrew Stott of autolink has quoted me 81.00 with exchange and delivery (includes postal cost).
 
In answer to Geoff, the garage state that only the nearside passenger caliper needs seeing to - charge without parts is 35.00.  Am I right in understanding the brakes have to be bled also?
Regards and thanks again to all who have replied.  Its good to have top support and assistance.
 
11

G’day

The brakes will not require a complete system bleed, if the garage clamps the brake hose properly before dismantling he caliper. Just that corner should suffice

12

 Good Morning!

 

I am still tyring to source a caliper reasonably priced but waiting for replies (re ebay) and have had a price from Autolink.

 

In regard to the piston and seal kit replacement I had a word with the garage - inner area where the piston is - is completely fine - original seals are not (obviously) and orginal piston corroded and pitted.

 

I discussed with them about the bleeding and was told the clamping could be done as you suggest Geoff but they think it may be a better thing to bleed and change the brake fluid - seems the fluid is not that good and it is suggested its flushed.  I was told they would put DOT in.

 

I need to esablish also as my coolant is also down to the LOW mark (just on the small plastic mark showing LOW) what coolant is to be used as I will also ask this garage to top this up. I recently had the head gaskett done around three weeks ago and am also going to keep an eye on the coolant level as in my opinion this shouldnt be as low - the previous mechanic is not available for me to ask as he is away overseas and not back until mid March.

 

In the meantime, car runs fine - there seems to be no apparent leaks - I have checked for a change of colour re removing the oil cap and it looks fine.  Maybe the previous mechanic did not top it up or its losing for some reason - advice on this would be appreciated please?

 

Also what DOT needs to be used on my 1.6 MK2 manual R reg MX5 …there are some grades of DOT I believe!

 

Many thanks once again

 

x

13

Hi again

Good idea to change the brake fluid, it should be done every 2 years.Use DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid. The system holds about 250ml, but for a complete fluid change, reckon on 500ml.

The coolant loss could be down to air in the system when it was re filled. The most important check is to look inside the radiatorONLY DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE COLD*******Remove the cap and the water should be upto the bottom of the cap.

14

 Hi,

 

I will take the car out -have a very short trip  - 3 miles!

 

Will look at the radiator on return (after a cuppa and let thing cool engine wise ie).  If its air in the system, what is the course of action to remove this or sort it please Geoff?

 

x

15

Hi

You really need to let a garage sort it out for you, it involves raising the front of the car, and running the engine with the radiator cap off. Any good garage should be able to do it for you, probably the place doing your brakes, they sound Ok

16

Hi

 

Caliper is sourced - from another MX5 member (reliable and sound source).  Car is booked in for this coming

Wednesday. I will get the garage to look at all I am concerned about Geoff.  This includes the low thud noise I get while reversing off my drive (flat based) and at other reversing times also (on an incline or down one).

In the meantime thanks for your help and support and those of others that have also sent me support and advice re email replies on the forum.

 

Best wishes

 

x