I’m going to look at (and buy, if as described), a Mazda MX5 ND 1.5 Sport, that I won the auction for on eBay.
It is 35,000 miles with a full Mazda service history and looks very clean from the images.
Any pointers on what to check around the vehicle and on a test drive, including any deal breakers?
Please bear in mind, I have never owned nor driven an MX5, and have bought one (as a late life crisis) having had motorcycles for years.
I had been looking for an NC sport tech 2009 to 2014, but was unable to find one that wasn’t a covert rust bucket or far too expensive for what it was.
note to self do not bid on expensive items having taken drink…
*no fool like an old fool etc…
If you’ve bought it, then isn’t it the case that it’s yours unless it has been mis-described?
Check for the (barely existent) toolkit and tyre pump/gloop in case they have been left in the garage. Ask for the 2 cupholders if you can’t see them (they are silly expensive) and check everything works. WIndow regulators are cheap, not so the fabled spherical bearings on the rear hubs which if worn manifest as a distinct knock when cornering IIRC. It should be evident if there is a problem with the gearbox.
My 1.5 has the same mileage and nothing has gone wrong with it yet.
Lay under the back and check the subframe for rust. Will give you an overview on the rest. They do rust like all Japanese cars. Do get it rust proofed unless already done. It will end up like an NC does and other ones. Contrary to belief by owners, they will be going the same way as the rest as discussed with the MX5 restorer crew when I chatted to them.
Otherwise, check all switches and lights work, seatbelts retract and then go have a blast
I’m a bit confused here. EBay is an auction so you have bought the car. If it’s not as described then you have to take action to get your money back. You seem to suggest winning the auction gives you first refusal. Great for you if that is the case but I’m sceptical.
Thank you for information on the rust checks. I have given up on finding a late NC Sport Tech after looking at loads online that look more like a liability than fun.
It does seem exceptionally hard to find one of these cars that is rust free, and I am travelling from Southwest London to the borders of Scotland to get this one.
This is a good point, however in this instance, it’s an agreement to pay for a product if it is as described. I have bought on eBay for 21 years and it’s pretty straightforward to refuse an item or product if it is not as described.
I have been in touch with the seller and asked detailed questions to verify the function and condition of all components. I’m hoping it is as he has said and I look forward to buying it if so.
I’m more familiar with motorcycles and have bought and sold them for 40 years and always sell things with complete history, receipts and transparency, and I expect the same of other people.
I suppose I’m being very cautious in the world of cars, that and experience of working with contracts for the day job!
I know we have a lot of Scottish people on here but they always say never buy a Scottish car due to being wetter up there. I will find this out when I am in my mx5 in 3 weeks touring for 10 days and looking forward to it.
It is a minefield in finding a decent car. I think we were lucky with ours and wife transferred the funds before I could barter with the dealer .
Fingers crossed with yours.
But possible. Mine (2017) is, but I did decide when I bought it at 6 months old, before its first winter, that the only important modification was to get it protected. And it’s not yet for sale because I can still get in and out of it!
Having travelled to the far north to look at this car it was indeed pristine, so I bought it. The paintwork is excellent and the inside looks like a new car.
The only fly in the ointment is delamination of the navigation screen and the car only came with one key. So any links to a spare key provider would be welcome.
There is mud in the wheel arches which I will remove followed by the covers to check for rust and clean underneath, then I will probably take it to be under sealed for good measure.
That’s a good point. I emailed BBR to check with them and they have no record of having worked on this car, but suggested it might have been chipped or possibly have some of their exhaust parts or manifold on it. They also mentioned they do not do a 180 BHP kit for this car.
I currently don’t know enough about what the standard setup would look like to check. It would be nice to think it has been breathed on but it may well just be the stickers!
Picture included for the eagle eyed to spot any differences!
Looks very nice and clean under the bonnet which is always a good sign of a conscientious owner. I would take the wheels off and have a good look at pads, discs and clean dirt off the suspension and wheel arches. When the wheels are back on check for any brake drag. A wash and polish is always a good way to inspect the body. If necessary an oil and filter change. By then you will have a gut feel for the car so can enjoy driving it.
I updated my MDS to the latest software and maps and then installed Android Auto/Apple Car Play so it is bang up to date.
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