Hi All
I am struggling to find a cam shaft sensor for my mk1 mx5 na. I have tried MX5 parts, but they are out of stock. I have searched the internet but cannot source one. Any ideas please?
Marked56
Assuming it’s for a 1.6 and that you’d rather avoid new "Genuine Mazda " ;
Reconditioned from MX5City ?
Camshaft Position Sensor for Mk1 (Recon Exchange) | MX5 City
Do you mean a CAS (Cam Angle sensor) I think I might have one in the garage
Hi Carl
Apologies for the delay in reply.
Unfortunately I lost access to my email account, but have managed to get it restored.
Thank you for your response, I have now found a replacement part, so hopefully that will be the cause of the non starting issue.
Kind Regards
Mark
Nice to see you back Mark, 25 days without access to your email must have been frustrating and that stopped you signing on to the forum too?
You found a CAS. Did you do a diagnostic check on the car to see if any error codes flashed up? The CAS which operates both crank and cam pulses usually shows an error code. It is a very likely cause of a non start.
There are two types of MK1/Eunos 1.6 CAS - early cars were fitted with an optical sensor and later cars, 1993/4 on + the 1.8 with Hall effect sensors. These are different but work in exactly the same way on the car; they are interchangeable. If you have an early optical sensor and it is proven faulty, I would like it please
The Optical sensor is the one on the right. I want to see how a faulty one performs on my test harness and also dismantle one. I have several working optical sensors but it looks like damage may be caused and timing upset by taking apart, so I do not want to risk playing around with a known good sensor.
I will post you out a stamped, pre-addressed label for the favour of sending me your old faulty sensor and pay you a little too for your trouble.
Rob , just for your flip file…Some of the early 1.6 editions were also fitted with the “hall effect sensor” in the 1.6 shell and the inner’s can be swapped over into a 1.8 shell, they are referenced by the B on the end of the part number on the shell.
M-m
Hi Wayne.
Hope all good with you.
Yes, a useful trick, swapping out the 1.6 Hall effect internals into a 1.8 
I’ve also tried installing a replacement hall effect sensor to repair a fubarred original with some success on the cam but struggling on the small wing on the crank.
You may find that the Hall sensors you have found on the very early 1.6 cars are replacements, as I don’t think they were originally fitted until 1993.
Do you know if the optical CAS can be dismantled and effectively put back together again?
They were not replacements but fitted at the factory , maybe on the last batch of 1.6 versions to roll off the production line as the 1.8 came in for good ? as the Original 1.6 CAS is far more hard wearing than the delicate 1.8 unit.
And just as a foot not to anyone running a MK 1 1.8 be it a early 4 pin coil packs or the later 3 pins,DO NOT leave the ignition on for a good period of time without them running , it can burn out the CAS, coil and ECU, 1.6 is not effected, delicate units on a 1.8 compared to the 1.6 hairy chest version ; 0).
M-m
I’ve always found that 1989-1992 1.6 cars are fitted with the optical sensor at the factory. 1993 is a mixture, obviously migrating to the Hall effect. Whilst Hall effect are the ones I have here that have failed and are easy to test for failure, also have a supposedly failed optical sensor. The problem I have is it does not show as failed on my test harness, hence the question about dismantling. I’ve asked it twice now and regrettably it seems no-one has any better an answer than I do which is disappointing. Always nice to get useful information from someone that is ahead of me. It does happen and the usual source is Roadster Robbie.
Getting to your point on leaving ignition on, totally agree; never do it on any of these cars(MK1-MK2.5 anyway). Also important to point this out at MOT time and to any independent garage working on your car to ensure they do not cause you an issue. The MK1/Eunos 1.6 coilpack is pretty much indestructible although seen a few melted ones recently that allegedly still work:-) MK2 1.6 very weak, followed by early MK1 1.8 four pin and then MK1/MK2 1.8 three pin. The dangerous coilpack is the early MK1 1.8 four pin as that has, in my experience let go on one of the coil units and spiked the ecu, usually a BPF3. Usually repairable as often just a track taken out. Not experienced a CAS taken out by this but it would not surprise me. The other ecus mentioned just tend to self destruct without, from my experience anyway, collateral damage.
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