Hi,
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So having bought the 5 I am now assembling all the things I need to service it as I will be doing it all myself.
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As the car is so low and most of the service items are accessed from.underneath I think it’s prudent to invest in some ramps to make servicing easier without having to jack the car at every service.
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Can anyone recommend any ramps that give decent lift height that won’t foul the front? My NC has front spoilers that make it even lower.
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Thanks
Bought a pair of these off Ebay for my Mk NC, 2 TON HEAVY DUTY HYDRAULIC CAR VAN 4X4 VEHICLE GARAGE JACK METAL RAMP LIFT PAIR. ÂŁ119:99, long base so low entry no issues plus they have a hydraulic jack on each ramp plate to increase the height.
Speedy parts were the seller.
Great bit of kit if a little more difficult to store due to their length.
My previous standard ramps used to foul on the spoiler so used a supported scaffolding board to get the car on.
Cheers
Otto
There are various options here from using a standard pair of ramps with extension pieces to lower the initial steepness of the ramp to more expensive ramps that are flat but are raised by an impact wrench or hydraulics.
Another nice option is the 3 in one tilter all are available from CJAUTOS or Machine Mart.
Whilst ramps are handy to access all manner of stuff under the car, servicing is not one of them for me. I have a set of ramps, axle stands, trolley jack, blocks of wood, planks and chocks etc.
The best method I find to change the oil if you are doing it on the drive at home, jack the NS front in the air place axle stand under say the cross member or chassis rail, I jack on the front sill jack point. Doing the above give access to the oil filter and also the oil drain plug, I find ramps get in the way when you’re grovelling about on the floor, but that’s just my preference. Same again with the gearbox oil change, jack NS up place axle stands remove plugs, fill plug first, lower car level let drain having placed your catch container under. Raise car replace drain plug and fil with oill, lower car and check level, if it ouses out the fill plug you are done, raise car refit fill plug. You can’t do that method on a pair of ramps. The diff oil yes that’s ok on ramps and easy but I still use the jacking method.
BTW use short planks to raise the wheels if you want to use ramps to get you started up ramps, mine’s lowered and I never had a problem getting it up on them
The only problem now is I’m getting too old for all this grovelling around on the drive business but sometimes it’s the only way unless you want to trust others to do it. Having said that I’m going to ring the garage that serviced my daily driver shortly (if open) I trust, well trusted them but have found screws missing from the air filter box, what else is amiss I’m thinking?
Trolly jack and axle stands with 10% club discount from Halfords  £33.84
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But then again I have these
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I already have a trolley jack and two axle stands so half way there althought not sure my jack will go under as it is a standard size trolley jack. Got hold of some 4X2 wood to assist.
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I bought some hockey pucks for the stands and a couple for the jack with a slot cut out.
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I was planning on maybe driving the front up on ramps and jacking the rear up and on stands so as to have the car kinda level when I do the fluids. Is the ramps a hindereance to getting at the oil filter etc?
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I am a bit conscious of the jacking points. I know that there are four jacking pints on the sill and I can go off the diff at the back. Can I go off the middle of the front cross member if I can get to it?.
Conscious of having to jack every time I service damaging anything
They look great and ideal. I have looked into it but have limited funds for something like that
I was thinking of these with a bit of wood for lead up-
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https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061
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I find it easiest to loosen the oil filter from above (I wear rubber faced gloves for better grip, the no need for a wrench). Putting the car higher in the air makes it more difficult to do. If you do decide to put it on ramps, just unwind it a fraction to break the “stiction” on the o ring, so you’re not struggling from below.
The Screwfix and Machine Mart ramps seem quite expensive. Mine came from Halfords years ago but similar products are available on eBay these days, for quite a bit less money.
In a lot of cases the welding on unbranded ebay kit can be below tolerable standards and in these cases they can use use substandard materials.
How does someone having a look on ebay tell if there is a problem. Answer you cannot tell on the ebay pictures and the majority of people cannot tell looking at them in person.
If you have an issue here, you are dealing in a lot of cases with a bloke selling from his lockup.
There are good products on ebay but for those who cannot tell from a quick look if the kit is up to standard, I would suggest that people buy from an experienced supplier that will test the kit to make sure it is up to a reasonable standard before selling it.
In these cases it’s not a case of getting your money refunded but more of the unit not failing with someone under the car.
I understand from the first post you have an NC. The filter is a right royal pain to get at, whoever thought of putting it there? Anyway the NC oil filter is only accessed from under the car NS rear of engine. Now there’s a small access flap at the base of the front NS wheel arch such as it is, you can see the oil filter through it. Also a flap under the filter for access to it, I usually remove the whole cover panel if I remember last time. All I know is it’s a pain to get off if 1) it’s been tightened up by a big brute of a mechanic or 2) you haven’t got the correct tool, access is tight. You may also find it easier to remove the NS front wheel, it seems easier to use both hands then, can’t do that if you have the front up on ramps.
I’d be buying a pair of ramps I can see the quality of first, like Halfords or the like. Mail order, ebay stuff is a risk as already been said. I’ve got a pair of ramps I’ve had years, made of thick angled steel and properly welded. I’ve just inspected them for damage or stress, they still look solid and safe to carry on using I’ve just given them a lick of paint.
Standard Halfords ramps and a piece of 4 x 2 works well for my lowered NC.
Changing the oil filter is indeed a pain in the backside on the NC. Difficult to access, and if it’s been over tightened, still tricky to remove with a specialist tool.
Are they home made?
I need something in my garage like those, just the job for underbody treatment. I would need body treatment afterwards but would have a go all the same
I just use the centre jack points front and rear then put stands under each corners jack point. As mine is lowered slightly I have a low profile jack from SGS along with 4 axle stands. I regularly have the wheels off so find this is the quickest & best for me.Â
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I keep looking at these guys though, just a bit expensive at the moment. https://www.quickjacklift.co.uk/Â
They look fantastic, have you any more information please?
Err, yes, they are “home made”, But I prefer to think of them as made by “a time served tradesman in his well equipped workshop.”
A similar thing can be bought on eBay for around ÂŁ35 each; but they will be made by a muppet in China.
Example
I only mentioned the Halfords items as that seemed a cheap option.
I have a set of 3 tonne axle stands from Halfords as they adjust to 500mm. I use the scissor platforms to raise the car and drop it onto axle stands if I wish to remove wheels etc.
I also have a 2.5 tonne SGS trolly jack that lifts to 500mm. You wouldn’t want to carry it far.
The only problem with driving the front wheels up ordinary ramps is that this results in the rear being close to the ground so the jack no longer goes under the diff.
Paul G
^^^ Excellent, thank you for the info.
Where would the Centre Jack Points be please?
The centre jack point on the rear is the diff casing.
At the front it is a real pain as you need a very long jack but it is the front crossmeber than you cannot see as it is in the dark.
Basically get the car on a proper ramp and paint the centre section of the front crossmember white to allow you to find it to get the jack there under normal circumstances.