Morning all.
I am about to fabricate a rotisserie to mount the car body on ready for outer sill replacement and whatever repair I find underneath.
Does anyone have any photos of how one is bolted on please?
I was initially planning on using the sub frame mounts, but others have suggested bumber mounts?
Any thoughts or comments welcome.
Ian
My first thoughts on rotisseries , sorry I’ll start again.
My second thoughts on rotisseries are that you need to mount these on a strong non-rusty part of the car.
The last thing you want is, having cut back to solid metal and welded in new, the car now sits with uneven weight distribution due to chassis twist.
If your front chassis rails are less than solid then the bumper or tie downs area might also be unwise.
Personally I prefer using 4 high axle stands as I have some 3 tonne that raise to 500mm. I also have some 600mm trestles should I need higher.
Paul G
Thanks Paul. I am unfortunately a little old to try welding upside down under a car., I would Never get out!
Plan to weld a support frame inside the car to prevent any twist while I take the sills off.
These are also known as car rollers. When I was involved in Morris Minors, they were commonly used by restorers to roll the car through 90 degrees when major floor pan and cross member repairs were undertaken. One company, ‘Mr Grumpys Morrris Minors’, retailed them. This model was bolted to the wheel hubs to support the vehicle and maintain alignment. Looking on line car rollers are still available (with mentions of bumper mounts as suitable connection points - really for older classic cars I suspect) but as mentioned the choice of connection point is going to be unique to the vehicle being repaired, specifically the work required and the the corroded sections of the chassis.
JS
When a friend and I spent a week welding up a Morris Minor cabriolet, we simply rolled it on each side onto an old mattress - work amazingly well:-)
The Morris wheel arches resembled an armadillo when we had finished. This work would have been a nightmare without turning the car 90 degrees.
I would advise the original poster to get the welding repairs assessed before getting into the complexities of a car roller. Sill repairs should be possible without issue with the car in normal position. I would suggest that front chassis rail welding would also be as easy with the car elevated in normal position.
On the original Mini there was a hole in the bulkhead where the speedo lives, and up behind the rear seat another corresponding hole. A scaffold pole with a couple of wooden hubs shaped to fit the holes provides a reasonably well balanced pivot. I know of a couple of very early Minis that have been stripped back to the shell and completely restored this way including all the welding, priming, painting and under-sealing, but have not done it myself.
Here is one of them, resprayed with the original paint colour, and not dressed up as some have been. Apparently all the bright-work and glass is original too, apart from the headlights. It has been owned by the same family since it was about a year old.
Or something like this that attaches to the hubs
Or a conventional tilter
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/600x800/80-img_20141025_130342_e49a011530ca00c079935c4c103fc0d87123040f.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/600x800/80-img_20141025_170921_0c4c9070bc9b4dd5cd81af41f892a3036fa75b55.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/600x800/80-img_20141108_114247_6ae0a9282fff75b7f1e5d1cc8fc4d9a896e12ec5.jpg
Thanks for all the comments.
I have seen cars rolled onto mattresses and cardboard boxes before, but I don’t fancy the fire risk welding on top of that.
That last photo is what I am after, perfect.
I have the skate off, so no hubs the fasten too.
I have had 2 classic car restorers look at the car and they both advised a rotisserie. There are clearly other names for them!
They have quoted in excess of 1000 in labour, so the car is not financially worth me paying that, hence having a go myself.
Something to keep me busy in the winter.
Once I work out how to add photos, I will keep you posted!
Ian
Hi Ian, point taken.
However, from your profile I understand you have a Mk1 ? If so then these photo’s of “next door but one” might help.
This was a car he bought for a song that I welded the rear ends of the sills for him. This is the usual place for them to go.
Being a white car it doesn’t photograph very well but they should show you where to make the cutting disc incision and
when peeled down sardine can fashion it shows where the spot welds are found so they can be cut with a chisel.
You will see that none of the welds are overhead so can be done from the side.
HTH
Paul G
bit of a clean up
a skim of filler and splash of stone chip paint and its job done.
If you’ve been quoted £1000 just in labour for welding, its likely that the rusting is more extensive.
http://www.motorpunk.co.uk/articles/total-restoration-of-one-of-the-oldest-mx-5s-around/
Oh for sure. Hence me not letting them start. Possible money pit.
If all fails, this will be the next idea.
The Exocet
Save it. Don’t turn it into another Exocet. Exocet is a suitable end for basket case NBs, not NAs.