Trying to sell my 2011 mx5 mk 3.5 NC but the drivers side central locking mechanism is on the blink.
Both keyfobs tested and batteries replaced but only able to lock unlock drivers door via key in door lock only.
When I attempt to use keyfob there is little or no noise from mechanism however passenger is clicking and clunking happily but drivers door will not lock or unlock.
Sometimes if I manually operate the driver side door lock button the passenger side mechanism goes crazy locking and unlocking until I return button to original position or it times out.
I’ve tried a eBay purchased door mechanism but getting same issue - barely any movement on the cable to the internal door handle locking button so believe issue is elsewhere.
As with passenger mechanism clicking I can hear clicking somewhere behind glove box, further investigation I can see a bank of connection above the footwell fuse box and think water ingress from usual offending place has got to something as these connection - I am however struggling to get up to the connectors to check
Anyone else had this - I’m really in a pickle as I need to release funds so need to sell my car asap.
eBay replacement came complete with the latch cables and arms etc however I have not fully installed the ebay purchased mechanism. only connected it to the conenctors to test at this time as I didn’t want to put time in replacing everything to find same issue and a load of disappointment.
I’m beginning to wonder if the drivers side may have an inherent fault. My reasoning being, that I’ve seen at least 4 posts all of which all were related to the drivers side, (Mine also included).
So at this stage I wouldn’t rule out the replacement also being faulty.
Probably the best way to test that would be to connect it to the passenger side wiring, but that means removing the other door card.
Been searching forums for a while before posting, all seem to be same but range from a relay to complete replacement of both mechanisms by Mazda - latter being something I dont want to be forking out for. I’ve got plenty of door card clips so testing in passenger side is my next step, had hoped I could get away without having to do it incase I break something.
I think that you’ll find that the plugs are wired differently left to right so swapping isn’t a simple as plug and play. I’d try and get a look at the plugs on the keyless control module, it’s in the passenger footwell and has a grey connector.
When mine went I did notice when going through the lock motions, that I could hear it trying and the lever would nudge slightly.
I initially assumed that it was just old age and lack of lubrication, so I set about De-greasing and re-greasing the linkages.
When this didn’t work, I removed the cables from the actuator.
When this also didn’t work, I removed the arm and spring from the actuator, at this stage there was nothing in the way of resistance on the mechanism which could possible cause it not to work.
There was just one other thing that I did consider, one of those questioning your own sanity moments.
I’d been out at lunch time and topped up the windscreen washer reservoir, not watching what I was doing, i did allow some water to spill over.
When I came out of work at 4pm, the drivers door wouldn’t unlock, this was the very first occurrence that I was aware of, so I did question whether the spilled water may have gotten in to a connector or something.
Ok cheers, will give the foot well another look after work. Is it the 2inch square connector with the dark grey bar over it or the thin grey/off white connector that is to the side of the car behind and to the side the fusebox?
if if its the bigger connector how do you get the grey bar off to get the connector out?
I have the same problem, intermittent fault on the driver’s side locking, or I should say unlocking. Been ok for a while now so left well alone, again it’s playing up last weekend but now ok again. As mentioned in another thread the sun, heat on that side of the car seems to be a factor. I will get around to trying to fix it, it was posted up that it could be the actuator.
Sorry I did not get around to updating as promised.
Unfortunely in my case this was not a quick simple fix and after attempting everything possible I gave up and took then car to my local main dealer in York who spent a number of days head scratching checking over everything before coming back to say there is nothing else left to do other than taking out the whole dashboard to get at the main control unit… which they said would likely be 6hrs work, and if controller was at fault likely £400 or so for that. they weren’t sure if there was any in Europe to order anyway so would take days/weeks longer to source part etc.
Sadly other things took over and decided to cut my losses with the £168 bill so far. I managed to sell the car the same day to local dealer for £8,250 and was more than happy to fix it himself.
I hope for you guys it’s something daft like a fuse or the door lock mechanism but I would consider checking whilst you at it for the dreded water ingress issue behind the side of the dash and get that sorted (windscreen cowl grommet from a certain mx5 parts website) whilst you are at it. I wouldn’t be surprised if some point water was got in and caused part of the controller to fail. My issue started intermittent long before it totally failed, I just assumed battery was low or I’d not locked car propperly - it was some months later I noticed damp patches in footwell and found the cause of that issue and it all started to fall into place when locking failed completely.
I’ve just started having this exact issues, and I’m almost certain the sun/heat had something to do with it. Had it parked outside my place of work yesterday (very hot day as you recall) come to my car and the drivers side wont open. Having tested it a bit it looks to be its trying to open but just hasn’t got enough oomph to actually open it, looks like the solenoid is struggling.
My mk3 2007 has just developed this fault, YUK,. Reading your comments has really cheered me up. Not used to having things I cant fix. If I have any luck Ill come back.
Hmm, the innards of the lock actuator in the picture posted a couple of months in another thread ago looked similar in principle of working (but definitely not identical) to the one that failed a few years ago in my old Vectra B.
On my GM example two diodes had gone open circuit - new diodes with more robust ratings and it was working again (for less than a pound as part of an order from Farnell).
It might be worth checking the semiconductors and the motor connections. The diodes are cheap, alas the motor and gears are more of a problem and if faulty probably means you need a whole new unit.
The actuator includes motor, lock, connecting rods to external handle and flexible cables to internal handle, its better than ever. Considered used part but mine was fine 4 weeks ago, whos to say another used one won`t go the same way and then be more expensive.
