Tricky part is getting the rusty nuts off Mike as the pin’s not tapered and spins. There’s a hex (5mm?) key socket in the end to hold it when putting the nyloc on but it’s not much good a few years later when the thread’s rusty. Some grind them off but I found I could grab the flange of the pin (see pic) by clamping with narrow jawed vice grips on the boot side and the nuts came off fine. This one is Mazda 6 front, rear lower mounting looks tight on space so check first. No real tension there but use a jack to adjust if needed. If you do take off both sides be sure the links end up vertical (see pic) as the bar can drop and they can be put on over-centred otherwise.
There is a ‘How to do’ guide by Roadster Robbie in the downloads section. It shows how to remove the nut when the heagon in the end of the threaded part rounds out.
Excellent thanks Geoff (and Robbie!) I didn’t need to go that far with mine but it’s useful to know the joint will come apart. I wonder if that’s only the Mazda one though and if others are constructed differently? Certainly don’t rely on the hex key for other than fitting the new one, still got to fix mine from that job!
Personally I favour a hacksaw cut down one side of the nut, most nuts surrender under such a threat. Your hexagon bit looks quite ill! I was about to say buy Britool, but I am told they have gone downhill of late.
Ha ha yes Britool may be better but I only buy the best you know Geoff, made in China I think it says, but I suppose something will either bend or snap when subject to such abuse… Halfords replaced the 14mm ratchet ring I used on the nut… still, this has a replaceable hex so I will go cut another one…