You could run around the car at the stroke of midnight with a witch hazel stick, touch each wheel twice whilst muttering a magic spell. That one is guaranteed eveytime.
Or just change the oil and change gear like a normal human being.
To a degree you are right of course (not armchair qualified but City and Guilds/army).
The main problem in my opinion is the “baulk” rings on the synchromesh gears.
Each car will wear away differently and also quality of oil used, (some oils will actually wear away/dissolve the soft metals involved).
Some cars neglected for oil and quality changes.
Mazda recognised the issue and did change and improve the gearbox specifications to prevent this in the latter NC models.
I have a 2010 and it was terrible when cold, it’s perfect now though.
How funny, really, anything that helps is good yeah!
I have no idea what this means.
I’m pointing out the issue has nothing to do with mileage or age.
If your gear change is fine when hot but notchy when cold, then I agree.
However, mine was notchy when hot and really notchy when cold.
Imho, the biting point in the underlay was causing this because it was impossible to completely clear the clutch, so I was always getting clutch drag.
Adjusting rhe biting point made it more pleasant to drive from an ergonomic point of view and eliminated the drag as well, so win/win - for me.
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Update, having refilled the turret, liberally greased the pivot, and oil in gearbox is only 1100 miles old it’s now obviously much better when hot, trouble is I hadn’t done any long enough journeys lately to prove it, but did do a long ish run last week and it is noticeably better when hot, I have also picked up an IL gear knob ball in polished aluminium which is really nice,much weightier and slightly shorter than original gear knob.
Altogether very much improved.
Ps. Before the comments come in of freezing cold and red hot gear knobs…I always wear gloves!
Rubber?? 