I went with switchback LED turn signal bulbs that function as DRLs, then revert to turn signal when you indicate (this on an NC3.75). The kit is 12 quid on ebay, plus a changeover relay and piggyback fuses to hook into the electrics. All told, less that 20 quid and they work a treat. There’s a quite extensive thread on here that covers it.
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I have ordered a pair of H11 LED bulbs from ABD, which are allegedly much brighter and especially whiter than the incandescent oem foglight bulbs.
There is a warning that they don’t produce a beam but thats not what I want them for.
Will report back.
£20.00
Are these the Cree bulbs? They’re showing as out of stock now.
I considered doing the same and would be interested in how they perform.
It is illegal to use fog lights during the day but these non-directional bulbs would hopefully give a wide enough spread to be distinguisable from directional fog lights.
There’s an oldish thread HERE where some folks have done this.
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Yes, the Cree bulbs.
Looks like I must have had the last pair…
Interesting reading, thanks 
Took about half an hour.
20 minutes for the first one, 10 minutes for the second.
No need to take wheels off.
Best way in is through the wheel arch, I reckon.
No need for jacking up, easy peasy.
Easy, cost effective mod.
Forgot to say, here we have one yellow oem foglight bulb and one LED DRL
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Looks good.
How are they for brightness from a distance?
(I think you had the last pair of those bulbs in the country 
)
They’re very bright, too bright to use at night I think but great as DRLs, ie daytime running lights.
They certainly give the car lots of extra road presence
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Just finished wiring a 5 pin DPST relay onto my DRL’s but have a strange problem in that the whole thing works without a ground connection. As far as I can see the wiring is correct - Pin 30 to a fuse tap into the Eng Ign1 fuse, Pin 86 to a fuse tap into the HD L fuse, 87A to the DRL + and 85 to a common ground with the DRL return. Connected a lead to the ground switched ign on and thought I would find a suitable ground point only to see that the DRL’ were on and went off when dipped or main beam was selected. So where is the ground coming from? Is this normal , OK, safe or what?
Pins 30 and 87A are the normally closed contacts of the relay, so whenever you have a live feed on 30, 87A will be live and feed power to the DRL, which will illuminate - they get their ground through the original bulb connector, be it indicators or foglamps, whichever you are using. Pins 85 and 86 are the coil of the relay. I can’t remember whether they are polarity sensitive, but I have the feed from the headlamps on pin 85 and 86 to ground. When the coil is energised by switching on the headlights, contacts 30 and 87A break (and 30 to 87 makes) and turn off the DRLs. So, lack of a ground at 85/86 won’t stop your DRLs coming on, but will stop them going off - they’ll be on permanently. I hope I’ve interpreted your question correctly and that this is helpful.
Thanks for your response. The DRL’s are completely separate to any other lighting units and have their own ground which I have made common with the ground connection of the relay coil, in this case pin 85. They are not connected to the vehicle ground by the lamp body (plastic) or the fixings.
The DRL’s will go off when the contacts 87a and 87 change over from the power on pin 30. Its just that there is no ground in the system that I can see from the spliced connection from the return on the DRLs and pin 85. Hence my concern that there is a ground somewhere else with potential problems.
The system must be going to ground somewhere, otherwise nothing would work. Do you have a multimeter that will measure continuity (ohms)? If so, try it from your unconnected ground wire to an actual ground on the battery, body or some such and see what it reads. It’ll presumably show a low or zero resistance reading, but as to how it’s hooking up to ground without actually being connected, I don’t know. As your wire is intended to go to ground, I don’t suppose it would do any harm to make the connection to a suitable point and if it all works (no reason why not), then all’s well.
Relay ground connection to battery neg shows infinite resistance with lights off. Not tried with lights on just in case something happens.
Wow. You seem to have achieved the impossible, but there must be a reason why it is working without the circuit (apparently) being complete. I don’t have any more suggestions - if it was mine I would have to just dig around to see what I could find to explain it.
You could just leave it and use as-is, or bite the bullet and connect the ground wire. Check first that there’s no voltage at the ground wire - measure volts from the unconnected wire to the ground terminal. As long as there’s no voltage it can’t blow anything.