Chris' NBFL

We all know choosing a set of alloys for a car can ‘make or break’ a build. There’s many factors to think about, for example spoke design, width, colour, cost etc. Being a 4x100 stud pattern the options are plentiful, but how many tick all of the boxes?

I normally have a vision for what ever car I have, but with this NB2 I don’t? It’s more of a ‘go with the flow’ type of project. I didn’t have a huge budget for wheels so that ruled out fancy wheels like Work Wheels, Wedssport, Volk etc So I went with one of the cheaper options.

The Enkei RPF01 is a timeless design and suits pretty much any car. There are several brands that do a replica of this design, are some better than others? Who knows.

I had these Ultralite F1 alloys in my eBay watch list for a number of weeks, one day I received a notification from the seller offering me a discount bringing the price down to £460 ($577) shipped. I couldn’t say no to that price so I proceeded to place the order.

A couple of days later I received a message to say the Gloss Silver I had ordered were out of stock, but they have the Gunmetal finish available. Not my first choice of colour but it’s certainly not a terrible one.

I needed a couple of replacement tyres so I left them with the garage but hadn’t inspected the wheels. When I collected them I noticed the colour seemed abit…off?

Despite them being ‘gunmetal’ there were certainly more of an anthracite.

I played it safe with the fitment and went with a 15x7.5j ET30. There’s still some space available in the arch to add a spacer later on if need be. I didn’t want an aggressive fitment and have to roll the arches. I know the front wings will need replacing in the future so perhaps I may do that then before they get painted.

They may be cliché, but they’re much better than the heavily corroded, skinny factory wheels.

The Youtube video can be found here:

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A good looking combo, last winter while I was having my S-VT rebuilt I ummed and ahhed on wheels before settling on a really cool set of bronze Alutecs in the standard S-VT 16’’ size which were also lighter than standard S-VT but having agonised for months when I was ready to pull the trigger they only had three in stock !

Anyways I left it and a couple of days later I saw 4 freshley refurbed S-VT powder coated in a must have shade of metallic dark chocolate brown on e-bay, which I bought without a second thought. They will not be to every bodies taste, if they have any taste at all but they work for me.

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I wanted to turn my attention to the engine bay. Since painting the rocker cover it’s made the rest of it look horrible and wasn’t upto the same standard.

I began by removing what I could to help make degreasing and cleaning easier. Starting with the driver side, the coolant expansion tank and harcoal canister were removed along with the fuse box and fuel lines unbolted to be moved out of the way.

I started off with some Gunk Ultra degreaser and various brush sizes. Unlike the ‘normal’ Gunk, this doesn’t require hosing it off. Instead you only need a damp cloth, making it safer for this type of job.

After a couple of passes it’s starting to clean up really well

While the expansion tank was off I gave it a good clean along with tidying up the wiring in that area, tucking it up further under the wing/fender.

The bracket holding the fuel lines together was prepped and painted to help neaten it up. The hardware was replaced with stainless equivalents

With the charcoal canister now removed I was left with the solenoid and sensor. The big ugly bracket was obviously removed, the solenoid hose looped and the sensor relocated with a new bracket.

Luckily no EML has appeared!

Moving onto the passenger side, the airbox and windscreen washer bottle were removed where I found a little surprise behind the airbox and ducting

It seems the ABS models have the washer bottle just behind the airbox, right next to the exhaust manifold. It’s quite a tall bottle and just looks out of place, so I decided to relocate it to the boot.

To the left is a plastic storage pocket which seemed like a good place to put it, but the bottle would need to be changed. We happen to sell a universal bottle kit at work, but these can be found online too.

Looks like a perfect fit!

The original plug is tucked infront of the suspension strut next to the ABS pump bracket. I used some insulated crimp terminals to extend the wiring, but only the positive wire. The negative wire for the washer pump would be earthed to the chassis in the boot.

Along with the single live wire I also fed the washer tubing through the fire wall. The original washer tubing had a straight join connector that went to the OEM bottle, I disconnected it here and connected the new tubing to the washer jets.

Underneath the carpet was some round black plastic tubing, but with nothing in it. This was perfect to feed the wire and tubing through along the car, it would then come out by the seat belt trim. With the lower seat belt bolt removed (14mm) and the rubber door seal peeled off a few inches, the trim piece can be pulled away enough to feed these through the gap.

The gap is between the inner panel and fuel tank, you’ll need to remove the metal cover to gain better access.

I drilled two holes into the plastic pocket. The left hole (front of the pocket) is for the washer tubing, the other (left side of the pocket) is for the wiring.

I cleaned up the other side with the degreaser, painted a few brackets and reassembled. Here’s a side by side comparison from the day of purchase to now

A productive day with some great results. The washer bottle relocation was a good choice, obviously there’s a slight lack of ‘power’ with the washer jets but it works and that’s all that matters.

The corrosion in the engine bay will get sorted at a later date. Matching the engine bay colour is proving to be more difficult than I first thought. It’s a blow over of the body colour, but I can’t replicate it with an aerosol the colour is too dark even straight out of the aerosol can. I had a local paint shop scan it, a close match was a Daihatsu colour, but it wasn’t blue enough. Again, this will get sorted later on when the weather hopefully improves/warms up

The Youtube video can be found here:

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My only problem with engine bay clean ups is they do not deter me from driving through deep puddles and fords I should know better not to, nice work :sunglasses: :+1:

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I apologise for the lack of photos for this update, luckily I managed to capture it all for Youtube.

The car stereo looked to have been ill fitted and just thrown into the cabin. I had also noticed the passenger speaker wasn’t working and the only audio was coming through the tweeter.

With a tonne of options available whether it be single or double din, mechless or with a CD drive not forgetting other options like Bluetooth, USB, DAB and even android auto/apple car play.

Working at a Motor Factors we stock a small range of audio components, but the MX5 uses a 5x7" speaker and it was the only size we didn’t have. With a selection of Pioneer units to choose from I went with their SPH-DA160DAB double din unit along with some Vibe Slick 5x7 speakers.

The stereo installation was quite easy, but I’ll leave the explaining to the Youtube video. The speakers required the factory units to be removed from the plastic housing.

With Spotify and Google Maps working seamlessly along side each other, it makes the daily commute and road trips much more enjoyable and convenient.

The Youtube video can be found here:

This isn’t a very exciting update, but sometimes it’s the little changes which can and do make a difference (that’s subjective of course)

Starting off by getting rid of the ugly orange on the headlights. I replaced the bulbs with chrome versions and it’s made the front much cleaner

It was time to finally remove the awful black reflectors. At first glance I thought they were painted, turns out they were badly vinyl wrapped.

I.L Motorsport offer clear reflectors and side repeaters. I’ve had these fitted on preWhilvious MX5s so I knew the quality was going to be good.

The reflectors came with bulb holders to wire up side markers but I decided against this for the time being.

And a random sunset photo with the wife’s Mazda 6

The Youtube video can be found here:

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Are you surprised as much as I am, with how long it’s took me to do this next modification? It’s time to change the exhaust!

Like most things for this platform, there are a number of choices depending on the aesthetics, sound and price. Here in the UK it seems the brand Malian is favoured amongst the newer/younger owners for the low cost and fart cannon looks. Unfortunately these sound absolutely AWFUL and if I had a choice between that and stock, I’d choose stock!

Luckily for me, age has brought me some sort of sense when it comes to exhaust decibel levels and I was looking for a much more subtle sound. Something that added some noise, without compromising the ride (I don’t want to be shouting at my passengers while trying to make conversation).

Racing Beat are up there with one of the best sounds in my opinion, but they also cost almost as much as the car. I’ve had the single and dual exit MX5Parts items in the past but a Cobalt backbox at a discounted price was waaaay too tempting.

Moss Europe had this discounted on eBay for £199 ($254), from their retail price of £330 ($425).

The goods swiftly arrived and I wasted no time in fitting it

Removing the exhaust backbox (or muffler to those across the pond) is straight forward. Spraying the three rubber mounts with WD40 made removal easy. Before removing the last one, I sprayed the 2 bolts on the flange to ease removal aswell. An impact gun may be easier here if the bolts are corroded and/or stubborn.

Who doesn’t love shiney new things! Nice manufacture including the welds, seems to be a decent replacement. The box is slightly smaller so it’ll be interesting to see how it sounds.

Installation was the reversal, starting off with the two bolt flange and the right hand rubber mount to hold the weight.

After the first start up, it sounded veeery quiet certainly not what I was expecting. I drove it another week or so to see if there were any improvements but there wasn’t. So I found myself looking through facebook marketplace and eBay looking for a stainless mid pipe.

I managed to source a stainless one only 15 mins away and used the ramp at work to swap it over

Again, a straight forward swap over. The passenger seat had to be removed and the carpet lifted up to gain access to the lambda sensor plug and grommet

It did improve the sound a little bit but it still wasn’t the loudness I was looking for (the resonator on the mid pipe doesn’t help). It’s a slightly louder than stock and now won’t rust so I guess it is a small win.

While fitting the mid pipe I did notice the flange on the cat pipe was heavily corroded and covered in soot. Luckily the seller of the stainless mid pipe also had a stainless 200 cell sports cat. I purchased that a week later and spent about an hour battling with heavily corroded hardward on the stock 3 bolt flange. Eventually the original cat was removed and the sports cat fitted. No more exhaust blow, and it’s increased the noise a tiny bit. Unfortunately this isn’t included in the video.

The Youtube Video can be found here:

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One job I wanted to carry out alongside the gearbox and differential oil change was to replace the gear shifter turret oil and bushing.

Starting off by removing the gear shifter and centre console trim (5 screws from memory). You’ll then see the upper shift boot, this has 4x 10mm bolts in each corner, once removed it can be lifted off and up. Make sure you check the condition of this, more often than not this will be split letting in excess heat and fumes into the cabin. Mine was in a few pieces so I ordered a replacement, more info further down.

Underneath the upper boot is the shifter assembly with the lower shift boot. Check the lower shift boot too, this was also split

There’s a further 4x 10mm bolts that holder the shifter and upper housing to the gearbox. The shifter will then lift up and out of the way

The shifter is held onto the upper housing with 3x 10mm bolts. With the housing now separated it was a good opportunity to give it a good clean.

To remove the upper washer one of the pins needs to be pushed back. This turned out to be a little tricky. In the end I bolted it back onto the car and used a 1/4" extension bar and a rubber mallet to push it back. With this done the washer can be removed and a new one fitted. Push the pin back in so the outer edge is flush with the aluminium body.

To remove the shifter bush I used a pair of long nose pliers. Next was to remove the wavy washer and nylon? washer below the shift boot. The shifter body has a wide taper and the shift boot has a small opening, so stretching it over to remove is impossible. I ended up cutting it off.

The new shift bush simply pushed onto the end of the shifter shaft, I placed it on the work top and pushed down. Next slide the nylon and wavy washer over the tapered shaft.

** PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH WAY IT NEEDS TO BE. I ONLY NOTICED WHILE RE-ASSEMBLING AND IT COST ME A REPLACEMENT LOWER BOOT. THE WAVY WASHER FACES UPWARDS **

With those on the correct way, I sprayed some WD40 into the boot to help lubricate and make it easier to slide over the shifter shaft. The top of the boot sits underneath the bottom of the tapered part.

This is the how it should look

Heading back to the car we now need to remove the old turret oil. I used the oil suction gun I had previously used to fill the gearbox/diff. I used some brake cleaner and blue tissue to mop up any remaining oil and to make sure it was clean. It’s also a good time to clean any old silicone sealant that’s on the flange surface.

I applied a bead of silicone sealant to the upper aluminium housing and refitted the unit to the gearbox.

The oil needed is the same EP80W90 GL4 used for the gearbox and differential, the required amount is 90ml.

Once filled the shifter can be fitted, you’ll see a slot either side which line up with the pins on the upper housing. Once pushed down, the lower shift boot can be bolted to the upper housing via the 3x 10mm bolts.

The replacement upper shift boot had arrived from Jass Performance. These are a huge improvement over the OEM one and include some counter sunk bolts to refit with.

With the upper boot installed all that’s left to refit the centre console and gear shifter.

The Youtube video can be found here:

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Great so far Chris, have you thought about red markers for the rear rather than clear? I had them on mine and they blend in better with the red tail lights. Can find them on imports.

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No I haven’t Andy, I may do a photoshop and see what I think :slight_smile:

With the quest to tidy up the engine bay, I noticed a couple of parts on the Jass Performance website which I thought would help do the job.

Starting with their polished exhaust manifold cover. Taking the airbox out will give you much more room. Removing the original one was a task in itself. The two upper bolts were fine, it was the two left ones specifically the lower one. With those removed and the threads cleaned up it was time for the fitting.

Included with the cover is a bag of stainless hardware. The upper bolts have some round spacers which sit underneath the cover to raise it up, followed by some long allen cap bolts. The right hand side bolt is a little tricky with the heater hose being in the way, but it’s certainly doable.

Next was a scuttle cover to hide the gap behind the fire wall.

I opted for their textured black finish, I think polished would have been abit too blingy. This comes in 3 sections, probably to make shipping a lot easier. Again, a bag of stainless hardware is included. The centre piece uses 4x allen cap bolts,washers and nuts. There are slots laser cut out of the new panel to slide over the factory scuttle panel.

You’ll need to remove a single bolt from the upper part of the wing (fender) to help secure the panel. Also don’t forget to disconnect the washer tubing to feed through the supplied holes on the panel.

The last part is the weather strip. The new panel has holes which line up with the original weather strip, but I found the OEM white clips didn’t seem long enough to be secure. I decided to remove the OEM strip and use the replacement provided. This just pushes over the lip of the firewall/bulkhead and the new scuttle panel.

Very happy with how these have turned out, some subtle changes but as I said in a previous post, its the small changes which make a difference IMO.

The Youtube video can be found here:

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Get some flat aero style wiper blades next? Michelin or Bosch do nice ones, helps modernise the car a bit and you can get rid of the little wiper blade spoiler thing. That cover panel looks tidy :+1:

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The wiper arms need a lick of paint so will do those at the same time. I put aome cheaper metal frame wipers on to get it through the MOT

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Jass Performance offer a range of tow hooks for all model MX5s and in a couple of colour options. Normally I’d choose black to make them subtle, but this time I chose their powdercoated red finish. With the rocker cover red I thought it’d break up the blue on the exterior and tie in with the engine bay.

To make things easier installing the front hook I removed the bumper. The front ‘baby teeth’ tow hook is held on by 3x bolts attached to the front cross member. The bumper/radiator air dam had to be removed to gain a little more access, be careful of any corroded bolts.

Jass includes new hardware, you wouldn’t want to use rusty 20+ year old bolts anyway.

With the bumper refitted it was time to step back and see how it looks

Moving onto the rear tow hook, this doesn’t require removal of anything. The only thing I did was use a wire brush to clean up the OEM tow hook. What I should have done was paint it with some black hammerite first, but I could always do that later on.

The rear tow hook sits horizontally rather than vertical like the factory one. A long bolt passes through both the new and old tow hook and a large washer and nut compresses the body of the new tow hook and almost wraps itself around the old one. It’s as simple as that!

Was the red a good choice? I think so, and I really like it. Lets hope I never have to use them, but at least I know they’re functioning and purposeful.

The Youtube video can be found here:

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Although I wasn’t experiencing any overheating issues or water leaks, I wanted to replace the radiator with a thicker core aluminium version ready to future proof the car.

The car needs to be off the ground to drain the coolant, this can be with drive on ramps or axel stands (or if you’re lucky enough to own/have access to a 2 or 4 post ramp). Like I mentioned in the cambelt update, the best way to drain the system is to remove the lower hose, make sure you have a container ready to catch the fluid.

With the radiator drained there’s a couple of things that need to be unplugged/removed. The airbox cross over pipe needs to be removed, not forgetting the breather hose in the middle. The radiator fan needs unplugging, this can be found on the fan shroud, roughly in the middle. If the vehicle has aircon, the aircon fan plug can be found behind the driver side headlight, this is a small white plug.

Disconnect the top hose from the thermostat housing, I’d recommend removing the hose from the thermostat rather than the radiator to prevent the plastic from cracking. The last thing to do is to disconnect the hose where the radiator cap is, which goes to the expansion tank.

On the top of the radiator are two brackets which bolt to the upper cross member support, these are a 13mm from memory. With the nuts removed the brackets lift off from the rubber grommets that are on top of the radiator. The radiator is now ready to be lifted up and away from the car.

I’ll be replacing the coolant hoses with silicone versions, it’s best to do these now rather than later while there’s available space.

The silicone hoses in question are from Stoney Racing. I went with gloss black to keep it looking OEM, I also went with their stainless hose clips. For the Mk2/NB there are a couple of hoses with 2 variants depending on the model.

I go into better detail of the installation in the video but they’re all like for like. I found the left heater hose quite awkward to change so beware doing that one.

With the hoses changed the new radiator can be dropped in. I went with the M2 Motorsport item from Bofi Racing (I’m pretty sure this is their own brand). Before it could be installed I needed to swap over both fans.

The bottom of the radiator has a ‘peg’ either side which push into a rubber grommet on the car. With the radiator in place, the top brackets could be refitted. I went with some new ones from MX5Parts, for the very little cost it saved a lot of time and hassle wire brushing the corroded originals and painting them. Reconnect the fan plugs and refit the airbox crossover pipe.

Refill the radiator with fresh coolant, bare in mind it’ll require more than before now the radiator is larger.

Very happy with the fitment on the radiator and hoses, it’s improved the overall look of the engine bay enormously.

The Youtube video can be found here:

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