I’ve found a number of threads mentioning sticky hinges, (doesn’t apply), or sticky release catches, (doesn’t apply), and one thread from 2017 which matched my situation, (but had no conclusion…)
The chrome filler cap on my NBFL simply doesn’t pop up when the lever is pulled in the cabin, needing some acrobatics to press on the hinge while pulling the lever, in order to open it to fill up.
The thing is simply missing the pop up bit. Would I be right in thinking this is the part in question? It would be nice not to have to try to reach both points when filling up!
Thanks Saz,
I have a MK2.5, with the chrome item included as a standard part. It’s designed to pop up when the release is pulled from the centre console, but doesn’t…
That would seem to be the correct part but I would say the original part is still there.
If it were missing, the flap would not stay down at all.
You will probably find that the pin has jammed with corrosion and is not free moving. If you clean up and lubricate will probably sort the issue out.
I had this problem with my NC. Solved by adjusting metal ‘spring’ inside cap to push on the cap more.
This was after checking that the release mechanism inside the boot was correctly seated in the notch.
I realise that this is probably the retaining pin which holds the lid closed, which is not what I want!
The lid stays closed quite well and, if I pull the lever inside the cabin, the mechanism moves fine and allows me to open the lid.
The issue at hand is that pulling the lever should result in the lid popping up about a centimetre to allow me to lift it fully open once I’m out of the car. This initial movement … doesn’t!
Hi Jitsuka
the ‘spring’ is a piece of metal on the opening side (opposite hinges) that pushes the cap open. it is a fairly straight length so can be adjusted/bent to be closer to the cap. I can attempt to post a photo of this tomorrow if it will help.
Hi Jitsuka,
If the photo uploaded correctly, this is the “spring” - flat piece of metal shown between the two holes, that pushes the lid open. It can easily be bent further upwards. I hope this helps.
Unfortunately I do not have any more information as this was fitted by a previous owner.
Just in case it helps avoid acrobatics in trying to pull the console lever and open the lid simultaneously, there’s a “trigger” handle on the back of the release pin which is accessible from inside the boot. If you reach in, you can hook a finger around the release and pull it open from there.
Here’s the mechanism from my Mk.1 when I took it out to lubricate it as it was inclined to jam open:
I too have a Mk2.5 with a chrome filler. It too was sticky and got to a point where it would not popup. So when I did get it open i sprayed the hinge and the release plunger, under the hinge, with WD40 it helped but had to spray more on the little black plunger under the hinge part of the filler. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push it in while completely coating with WD40. It now pops up every time the cabin release is pulled. P.S. the picture above of the red car is nothing like the Mk2.5 filler, that bit of metal just is not there. Hope this helps.
Hi Kerry,
I haven’t had chance to get working on the car until now, so forgot to update you. The spring shown in other images simply isn’t present in my car, which explains the problem! Good to know what the issue is and allows me to try to obtain a specific replacement.
The spring part of the fuel filler lid on the NB is under the black plastic plunger under the hinge. The lid is only held on by little protrusions at its pivot point. With it open, by pushing it down slightly you can easily remove the lid, this allows removal of the plastic plunger and spring. My bet is the plunger is stuck in its guide. Remove it and give it a clean up. Photos attached, I was going to do an article on this for Soft Top Hardtop but not got around to it yet.
The plunger can be pushed up from underneath to remove it. (Edit following the OPs experiences, take care not to break the plastic plunger on removal if it’s stuck really tightly).
Well, would you Adam and believe it? It’s alive!!!
First had to work out getting the lid off with the guidance from above, which I found out is best done with the lid almost closed. As Robbie says, press it down and ease out one side of the hinge.
Once off, you’ll want to unscrew the cap from the filler neck, pop off the plastic retaining clips at the base of its tether and get that out of the way, allowing you to access the three retaining screws for the metal frame. (8mm hex for a socket, or a Phillips size 1 screwdriver).
Once you have the metal frame out, it’s a good idea to get some penetrating oil in the small hole under the spring plunger and leave it to soak. If you try to tap it out while it’s still firmly stuck, you could end up just sheering off the top of the black plastic plunger cap. (Ask me how I know… )
While that’s soaking, you can get your wet soapy cloth out and have a seriously satisfying time cleaning out any gunge which was building up around the neck of your filler tube. So much better! Try to avoid getting crap down the neck of the filler, as you don’t want it going into the tank next time you fill up…
You’ll have to work out how to complete unsticking the plunger with Robbie’s advice and the penetrating oil as I didn’t manage this bit. Mine now has the spring pressing directly on the underside of the cap, which works, but is less ideal.
After that, in the best Haynes style, installation is the reverse of removal.
This is a little thing, but having to do acrobatics every time I filled up was just an ongoing ballache and it’s so good finally to have fixed it! Major thanks to Robbie.
Good to know what the issue is and allows me to try to obtain a specific replacement.
)
Mine now has the spring pressing directly on the underside of the cap, which works, but is less ideal.
