Clutch pedal adjustment

  1. My model of MX-5 is: __NC1

Having nothing better to do, a little slop in the clutch pedal mechanism and a slightly notch 1st to 2nd gearchange I thought I’d give this a go.

2 mins to get the lockout loose, 30 seconds to adjust the rod to remover the slack and AN HOUR AND A HALF TO TIGHTEN THE LOCKNUT BACK UP!

I’m not a big chap but I cant bend enough the get in that footwell! Had to try 5 different 12mm spanners to get the ■■■■■■ tight again!

Having a nice coffee now to calm down…

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You need a bathroom stool to support your hips outside the car while lying on your back with head and shoulders under the steering wheel!

It took me a while to work out the correct height of support.

Then it is amazingly easy, for an arthritic six foot contortionist.

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Has it made any difference? mine has about 1-1.5" of free travel before you get any tension and the biting point is lower than my NA so I was going to do this in the next few days. Interesting to hear the results :+1: :-1:

I found this method seriously claustrophobic, so tilted the steering wheel right up and reached in from lying on the seat. This method would have been pretty painless if only my arms were a little longer.
As it was, I had to do it one-handed with fingertips, which was really tricky but it did keep the claustrophobia at bay.
I didn’t find doing the locknut up difficult at all. The locknut with no pressure on it moved really easily on the thread, so no spanner required until final tightening.
To keep the pushrod in place while tightening, I clamped some long-nose clamp-type pliers onto the pushrod so they hung vertically and tightened the nut the quarter of a turn or so to finally tighten with the spanner. Using two spanners with the fingertips of my left hand would have been impossible.

no idea as yet - calming down before an ‘essential’ trip to the supermarket. I’m in Wales - just

999to5 - yep it was just the nip up that was the problem, couldn’t get the spanner on the flat for the final tighten!

It made an enormous difference to my NC2. The bite point was previously in the carpet somewhere, so clutch drag was impossible to avoid without having the seat closer than ideal and pressing the pedal hard into the carpet.

The bite point is still lowish but sooooo much better than it was.
Highly recommended!

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Sounds encouraging thanks, I just need to wait until it stops raining! The gearshift on my NC is no where near as slick as my NA 6speed box so I will be trying this plus gearbox oil change to Ford Motorcraft.

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Milk bought and I can confirm a small improvement from stone cold 1 into 2 but a big improvement downshifting especially 3 down to 2. When warm all changes are better although not massively.

Worth doing.

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I just spent half an hour adjusting the freeplay this morning, Yes it’s a right pain in the backside to get yourself up in the footwell but once there I found there was about 2" of freeplay where the pedal moved but wasn’t moving the rod. I adjusted until the freeplay was taken up, but making sure that the pushrod was still at the end of it’s travel.
Took the car for a test drive and the difference was immediately apparent reversing off the drive! It has completely transformed the clutch :grin: biting point is around halfway now and it’s a lot easier on my left leg to change gear! and the gearchange is now almost as good as my NA :grin: I found myself just changing gear for fun on the test drive. Gearchange is still a little stiff when cold but I still have the Motorcraft oil to change in the gearbox which might help with that.
But overall about 80% better :+1:

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