I’ve had a squeaking clutch pedal for quite a while (with the engine on or off). Everything is fine around the slave cylinder. Today, took the 96 out for a drive, for the first time in maybe 6 months. Pedal was pretty squeaky, but suddenly the squeak went away, and now the clutch feels very springy. The bite point is fine, but there’s less control in it. The clutch doesn’t have a huge amount of miles on it; its a 3piece Sachs clutch, with maybe 30-40k on it.
Poking around under the dash, noticed the connecting rod had a fair bit of play in it. Its not something I have ever touched before. I know there’s meant to be some play, but how much. I couldn’t see these bushes, to see if they’ve cracked through or something. I’m guessing if they’re done, the free travel is going to be affected, as everything in on a strong spring. If the pivot bolt is no longer on a bushing, its going to pull.
46-085 are the bushings, the connecting rod is 41-131
Now, I’ve had a chance to get some bushings, get the seat out and steering wheel off, and really check the the pedal out. Nothing seems omiss, but I can’t really see the bushings.
I thought taking the clutch mechanism out would be straightforward, but it seems the steering column needs to be dropped. So I would have to be upside down, steering column resting on my head, trying to get the pedal bracket out. Consulting Graingers for guidance, and its a bit alarming. The recomendation is to remove the pivot bolt in situ. He then says you “should” be able to withdraw the pin. This sounds a bit theoretical. Has anyone actually done this? I have visions of taking out the pin, replacing the bushes, and then not being about to get the spring back in place, rendering the car undriveable.
The original symptoms were years of a squeak, apparently from the pedal area (engine on or off). A few minutes of pedal working eliminated the sequak, but now, although there is still obvious resistance, the clutch action is now much more on-off. Is the fault more likely to be the master cylinder. I know the master cylinder was replaced at 50k miles, and now the car is on ~160k miles. I have a spare master cylinder, and its going to be easier to swap the master cylinder than replace the £5 bushes. Do master cylinders squeak? I suppose they must do.
Getting the pedal out wasn’t too bad from what I remember, getting it back in was a complete swine.
It was around six years ago I did it so I can’t remember the exact details but I didn’t take the steering column out. I do remember being upside down with my head under the dash and feet up by the headrests. I may have taken drivers seat out but it was a long while ago.
The problem with getting the pedal back was access as I could either get my hands or head under the dash but not at the same time because it was so tight there. In the end I did it by feel but you’re fighting the return spring while trying to get everything back in place.
I’ve decided to revert back to hear evil/ see no evil, after examining the extremely crusty nature of the 10mm nut on the master cylinder. White lithium on everything moveable, and fuggetadboutit. Remember to pack spare master cylinder in the boot. Feels like I’ve broken my back.
This video of a Canadian car shows how much more accessible the clutch pedal mechanism is on a LHD car; easier to remove. And rustier!
