Coilover kits - reviews and suitability

  1. My model of MX-5 is: NA Dakar Edition '97
  2. I’m based near: Droitwich Spa/Worcester
  3. I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: Coilover kits
    Hi all,

Posted previously about doing a suspension upgrade to my mk1, but been recommended against coilovers that are dual tube in favour of ones that are monotube.

How intensive is converting to coilovers vs a shock and spring change? My understanding is it is not that much different?

Looking at mx5 parts I cant tell if the GAZ classic ones are mono or not, and the IL motorsport ones are a price jump up, but have no reviews on the site.

Does anyone have any recommendations of what to use, I mainly use the car for street use and touring and not really track use, but I would rather pay a bit more to know I have the premium product than a budget one - hope this makes sense!

Many thanks in advance!

forgot to include links to what I was looking at -
Monotube Coilover Kit, IL Motorsport, MX5 Mk1
Gaz Classic Coilover Kit, Mazda MX5 Mk1

Also consider these below, I had the ZetaCRD’s fitted to my NC :+1:

As far as i know all mx5 (including the NA) have double wishbone suspension. The spring and damper is one unit (this is the definition of the coilover) and as such the spring is outside the damper strut and is supplied as one unit. My guess the second picture shows a generic product with the spring separated.

as for your question, the two products talk about providing the same replacement item to the stock suspension. The wording on one of the products “monotube construction” talks about the damping system and is somewhat confusing. The spring has nothing to do with the damping of the unit.

Hi @ckleanth! Thanks for your response

Apologies yes - monotube design refers to the construction of the dampers used in coilover systems not the spring. Explained at the site below :slight_smile:

Cool, now to answer your question which to go for my suggestion to anyone looking at changing/upgrading their stock suspension is to make an appointment with a suspension specialist preferably one that deals with mx5’s.

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Its the same. The “coilover” kits generally come pre-assembled, you don’t even need a spring compressor.

Its a huge huge topic, and there are many viewpoints. My views are probably clouded by an excellent conversation I had with Ian Gardiner (IG Racing), who is considerd a bit of a shock absorber guru.

Over the years, on various NA MX5s, I have gone from standard Showa shocks plus crappy PI lowering springs to Bilsteins plus Racing Beat Street springs to Apex’i shocks and matched lowering springs (a sort of revalved GAB (which ended up branded as KYB AGX or Mazdaspeed) to Performance5 Puredrive (Protech shock, Mk2 tops, Pigtail springs) to MeisterR ZetaPro. Along the way dabbled for the very briefest of time with a Racing Gear-Corns setup (it didn’t last long, they were n for about 4 hours before I binned them as a bad idea).

I selected the Puredrives in 2008 on the basis of reviews, knowing Phil Dixon, that they used UK parts combined with Mazda OE parts. They’ve been on for ~100k kms. In that time, I had the usual problems early on with seized damping adjustment (though I think that is less of an issue as some might think; once you settle on a setting, most will never touch it again). A set of rear bumpstops needed replacing, followed by rear shock rebuild (by IG Racing, probably the smashed up rear bumpstops was an indicator of failing rears, and that maybe moving to an effectively NB setup didn’t cure the well known NA rear bumpstop issue).

If I needed replacements, and it was available, Puredrive would have been my choice. They might be a bit old school now, but they suited my needs very well. But Puredrive is no more, and Performance5 is never coming back. And Protech don’t seem that interested.

My conversation with Iain Gardiner was after I purchased the ZetaPros. Originally I approached Protech for a rebuild, but they were only interested in selling me a newer design for a discount, claiming they didn’t have the parts for the older version. Bit of research, and I found IG Racing, who do a lot of Protech setups for stockcars. Interesting; they were happy to rebuild the shocks, using the latest verson parts. I learnt they carried in stock full spares for Protech, GAZ, Spax, Koni, Bilstein, AVO, Ohlins and Penske. I learnt that the vast majority of Japanese shocks could be supported, because they used “industry standard” parts. I was a bit deflated to find that for the Chinese shocks, no such support was possible, as the parts used didn’t follow the norms Iain had found for other brands. I learnt that AVO, GAZ and Protech had a common lineage through Rod Avon, and that the cone design was basically sound. I learnt that where they fail its usually due to contamination of parts during assembly (hence IG would buy these in “dry” and build themselves), and this is generally true of most shocks.

The springs on the ZetaPros went rusty quite quickly, compared to the Puredrive springs. I sold te car, and the next owner suffered spring breakages, wit some worry about whether he could source replacements or not.

Given there is no Performance5, if needed, my attention would probably start with the Tein Street Advance. They seem very fairly priced from an established manufacturer, not a private label shock, where support is always going to be a bit more uncertain. These aren’t rebuildable I think though.

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Hi Saz

Thanks for the detailed response, looking around on some of the other threads you seem to be quite the subject matter expert!

The Teins are twin tube which I had been recommended avoiding - is this something you’d agree with?

Hi Charlie!

To give a better recommendation:

  1. Do you want it to look lower?
  2. Do you want to reduce body roll?
  3. Do you mind an increase in stiffness/harshness?

Let me know and I’ll have a think! Thanks!

Hi Seen,

I’d like to lower a little, I do think the arch gap on NAs is too big! Not much more than 30mm though.

Other than that I’d like to stiffen a little to improve the feel, but only for nice B roads so no where near track stiffness!

Hope this makes sense?

Hi Charlie,

Great stuff! It’s a fine balance between comfort/handling/looks so here we go:

Other Considerations Before Coilovers

  • ANTI-ROLL BARS: To improve handling/feel without compromising comfort you can get a stiffer set of anti roll bars. Anti roll bars connect the left side suspension to the right side suspension. This means that the body wont roll as much for twisty b road corners and you’ll still maintain the ride height and comfort that you’re used to for motorways and potholes.
  • JUST SPRINGS: Usually changing just springs is more laborious than coilovers as you have to disassemble your old coilovers (which may be in poor condition). It also means that you will probably bottom out more as the dampening hasn’t been matched to the reduced amount of travel you now have. People usually do this for looks on a budget with significant comprimise.

Coilovers

There are 5 main aspects to consider when purchasing coilovers:

  1. Suspension Travel (how much it lowers compared to stock)
    When you reduce the travel this reduces the height of the centre of gravity of the car improving feel and reducing body roll.
  2. Spring Stiffness
    Coilovers will usually quote a spring stiffness in kg/mm or lb/in of travel, the lower the value the softer the spring. A high spring rate will mostly produce a stiffer ride (amongst other things)
  3. Coilover Damping
    An increased rate of damping will lead to a stiffer ride (amongst other things)
  4. Top Mounts
    Some companies don’t include top mounts with their coilover suspension, these wear over time and you’ll likely want to replace these if you haven’t already. So bear in mind that if the coilovers don’t come with top mounts, this will be an additional cost.
  5. Quality, Cost, & Reliability
    Usually correlates with price, brand, & maintenance/cleaning. Most aftermarket suspension retailers will only give a 1-2 year warranty but don’t let this put you off as they wont break on the 366th day

Summary

I’m assuming your MX5 is stock otherwise (stock rim & tyre profile, stock bushings & suspension fittings. So if you don’t mind a slight increase in harshness a set of HSD adjustable coilovers seems about right. They can be found here: HSD Coilover Suspension | hsdcoilovers.com

I honestly wouldn’t stress over twin tube vs mono tube if you’re not pushing your car at the track and need the perfect cornering. Just get a set of coilovers that have adjustable height and damping with a reasonable spring rate (HSD recommends 9kg/mm front & 7kg/mm rear but you can pick softer or harder). This way if you set it up on the harshest setting or too low you can always dial it back for comfort. The prices aren’t too unreasonable either.

Anecdote

I have the HSD Dualtechs on a Turbo MK1 1990 Eunos 1600cc with 9kg/7kg springs, on the lowest damping setting at the highest height on 15x7 rims with 190/50/15 tyres and I would consider this firm but not unreasonable. The car is used as a daily and has been used on the track.

Best of luck!

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Thanks for that super helpful guide - will look into the company you mentioned.

Can’t really just do springs as my stock dampers are leaking and failing and need replacing, hence the thought to upgrade.

As another note, my bushes have probably never been replaced, and it’s a 97 1800cc non-ABS car. Do you think it’s worth getting these replaced at the same time? Thoughts on replacing with poly bushes? I’m hesitant because I fear they’ll be too stiff for a street based car.

Thanks again!

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The coilovers will come with their own bushes built in and you’ll get a top mount if you get ones like the HSD. Sometimes there’s a thin plastic shim between the top mount and the body that is either perished or non-existent (to stop squeaking) that can be replaced.

I have put plastic bushings on my MK1 because it was cheaper than genuine mazda replacements at the time and can say that they do increase harshness, I’d recommend going or the rubber ones if you can. Chances are the ones you have are still okay, so long as they’re not split or perished - you can usually tell by looking at them.

Something to note when replacing the coilovers or bushings, is that the bolts that run through them can sometimes have a build up of corrosion or be slightly bent. You can take a look when you’re down there or after you extract them. The replacement bolts are generally reasonable at a few quid a piece!

Best of luck!

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Just invest in some Miesters, easy as that.
M-m

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