I’ve only ever driven on a standard clutch. I guess the race clutch speaks for itself but does the competition clutch still allow for around town driving.
Are you sure there’s a difference??
Surely, racing is competition…
I had a Spec2 clutch in a NA Roadster. It was heavy. I swapped it for a standardone.
Check out this to explain it Exedy clutches - Mazda MX5 | Driftworks.com
The ‘competition’ clutch is just what it says…for competition, where you will only have one start-up/move off event. They have NO cushioning blades AFAIK, which means they are IN or OUT, with a very sharp bite point. I guarantee that the first few times you drive off, you will almost certainly stall the engine unless you can manage to slip it like mad.
A real PITA to drive in traffic.
The cerametallic buttons used on the ‘paddle’ construction will also eat the flywheel face much faster than the normal facings. The clamp load is increased, so the pedal release load will go up in direct proportion, and your left leg will soon get tired of it!
Having driven some race-prepp’ed but road-legal cars (not MX5’s, but rally cars) to events, I can heartily say…
I think it also depends on the manufacturer of the clutch, I had a stage 2 that I imported from Flyin’ Miata and it was very good, didn’t bite as much as the other clutches I’ve had but was still quite happy with a TD04 Turbo.
There are lots of clutchs for different useage I have a Helix Group N Clutch in one of my Eunos Roadsters 169 Bhp on ITBs very easy in traffic and will stand being dropped at 5000 RPM.
I use the car for commuting as well as Hillclimbs and Sprints so it has to be tractable in traffic and have plenty of oomph.
You need to know your Power / Torque and what sort of use the car will be getting.
Tyre grip is also a factor as well as vehicle weight.
A clutch suitable for a Rally Car will be a better bet on the road than a full race clutch.
Thanks for that