Hi, my coolant temperature meter needle is almost at C when on m4 today around 3000rpm, is that normal? Almost like not hot.
I have it at around 30 to 40 percent to the right when on local or underground parking finding slots so it can go up.
Cheers
Man
Thermostat stuck open. New one will sort it.
Many Thanks 
Many thanks. Guess I will order the part and ask my local garage to help . Wonder is it mx5parts to order?
Also wondering if it’s wise to also replace the cooling water pump given the age, if it’s around the same area of disassembly?
As bally says easy enough if you have a few spanners, fiddly to gaining access, getting the throttle body off etc
The water pump is at the front obviously where the auxiliary belt is, the stat on the side under the throttle body, inlet side.
Whilst there change the coolant if its not been done, FL22 is the stuff, has a 10 year lifespan so check up if you’ve had yours done recently. Needs a few flushes to get the old out, use deionised water to flush.
This one is a pretty reasonable price from Autolink, a respected supplier of parts for our cars, use them often…
Many thanks 
All being said…I’m just speculating if it’s a worthwhile exercise to do the cambelt as well if it’s not got history.
Doesn’t have one, does it?
Stupid me. My bad. Of course not. It’s a chain bruv innit loike? 
I think NC is not chain though. Might worth changing
Engines are…
NA …belt drive
NB… belt drive
NC…chain drive
ND…chain drive
Oh super… Now I know mine is a chain 
Many thanks
Man
Oh…erm…um… 
That chain drive Mick…is that to the rear axle?
Cheap ones through to a Mazda expensive one.
Loads of different ones out there and actually quite difficult to decide.
I have just bought this mid range one with 3 year warranty.
Got it a bit cheaper off the same company on eBay with one of the deals.
You’ll use less fuel too…
. . . and you’ll need to turn the heater down to stop your knee from burning 
I picked the cheaper meryhl something brand from autodoc. Blue print is good too.
