Thanks. Fuses 15 & 16 are the L&R dipped beam fuses, so I will take a look at that. I was trying to hook into the side/tail lights, but the side/tail fuse (28) didn’t appear to have the correct black/green wire that the diagram shows. I was losing confidence in the accuracy of the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual and didn’t want to break into the wrong circuit.
Thanks. It still means finding a suitable hook-in point though and these modern cars are fiendishly difficult to access the wiring.
No need to break into your wiring, use a piggy back fuse.
I’m working at the mo but if you can wait a bit i’ll send you an eBay link later.
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Thanks. Never stop learning something new.
Thanks for that @safetymatch. Hadn’t come across these before, but they will certainly simplify things.
I belatedly cross-checked the Haynes manual fuse listing against that in the Owner’s Handbook that came with the car and they’re numbered up differently, although positions look to be the same, so the fuse numbers I quoted in my previous post (ex-Haynes) won’t correspond if using the handbook as the reference. Just thought I would mention that in case anybody else is going through this process.
The DRL Controller turned out to be somewhat unreliable. Although fine at first, on a couple of occasions I found that the DRLs weren’t on after starting the car, then seemed to come on when they felt like it. The upshot was that I took Phoenix22’s advice and ditched the Controller, fitted a changeover relay wired into piggyback fuses as per safetymatch’s advice and now working as required.
The one issue I had was finding a fused supply that was live when the car was running, but dead when switched off. The majority of the fuses are live even when the car isn’t, but piggybacked off the injectors fuse and that’s done the job.
Thanks to all for the advice.
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