Bottoms come with the ball joints. You can get after market universal fit ones but they are not that good for long term. Just a “get through the MOT and sell” type of thing.
Replacing the rubber boots is fine, provided the joints are not worn. Only the lower ball joint is replaceable as a separate part, the top one is an integral part of the wishbone. MOT testers always advise if they are starting to perish, but it is not an MOT failure until they actually split.
Personally I would fit genuine Mazda ones from wherever you choose i.e. Autolink or MX5 Parts.
Finally put the car on a lift and had a good look around underneath.
Lower front suspension ball joint and boot.
Upper front suspension and boot.
Track rod end
All the boots look a bit tired but watertight.
So, I think I will fit new lower ball joints complete at about £22 each vs £8 for the boot only and new track rod ends at about £11 each. On eBay Euro Car Parts are charging £27.69 for the lower ball joint but delivered to a garage it’s the £22 I said before. Because the upper ball joint is part of the wishbone replacement is expensive at about £140 each. Boot replacement is possible but sounds difficult, according to the Owners’ Club. Unless anybody can tell me otherwise!
Advice here would be much appreciated.
As there was some time left, I had the wishbones, chassis rails and sills sprayed with Dynax Wax.It has worked well on my 100E Anglia. Easy to do except that the sill drain holes had to be enlarged slightly for the nozzle and flex to enter. About 1 1/2 cans used.
The 32mm fitting goes over the lip of the boot and I’m not sure why you need the 40mm fitting at all. As long as it fits the lip and is longer than the boot ( maybe why the 40mm bit is needed) it should work.
I have ordered 2 boots, from Autolink and will size them up, maybe at Wickes. The Haynes manual suggests using a 30mm 12 point socket and Autolink to hand fit them.
Not having a 30mm socket I can’t comment.
My tame mechanic is on holiday, for a few days, so things are on hold,
Thanks for the correct link.
I bought a 30mm 12 point deep socket and the upper suspension boots. It fits perfectly, so no need to go to Wickes.
Unfortunately I was stuck down with a Spigelian Hernia and am hors de combat, pro tem, to mix metaphors. None of the GPs around here have ever heard of it; less encountered it. I was lucky that I knew the consultant surgeon on duty and he ordered a CT Scan. Even he was a bit perplexed.
In a week or two I hope to address the MX5 issue.
In the end, the Track Rod ends were worn, so they were replaced. The lower suspension ball joints were replaced.
The Upper Suspension boots were replaced.
Generally all the boots were in a poor condition, so I hope to have prevented MOT failures.
The steering is much taughter now and I am booked in for tracking.
Upper boots
Upper ball joint minus Boot
Pressing on the Upper boot, using a 12 point 30mm socket. It was very easy and not at all as difficult as some suggest.
Upper Boot in place
I am astonished about the variety of parts used on the MX5. In the suspension the Track rod ends and lower ball joint share a castellated nut/split pin but the Upper Joint has a flanged nut with clip, although the screwed end is drilled as if for a split pin.
I wanted to swap the sill kick plates over because the driver’s side is a bit scuffed. The plastic plates are right and left handed…why when if the retaining holes could have been drilled to suit a single part?
When I prised off the Stainless plates, the 4 clips on the outer sides had come unglued. It looks like cheap and nasty hot melt glue was used and it had hardened and cracked with age. I cleaned the underside of the plates and the clips and applied double-sided tape ( as for Number Plates) the full length of the plastic plates. Then I offered up the SS plates. Now it looks much better.