Hi all
I’ve decided to buy one of Dinitrol’s rustproofing DIY kits and Ant and I will do it ourselves rather than getting a company to do it and not knowing what standard
of job they’ve done and of course, alot cheaper!
Has anyone DIY’d their rustproofing on their MX5?
Thanks
Andy and Ant
Will be ordering a kit http://www.rejel.com/product/10990.aspx on monday morning
I will update as to how we get on
Andy and Ant
Hi Andy and Ant
You can DIY rustproofing but if you don’t get everything almost squeeky clean you could be wasting your time, money and chassis. You really need to get a thorough steam clean and dry before applying any rustproofing chemical and unless you are very exceptional you won’t have the kit at home. Search around for a professional chassis cleaning outfit (usually a truck pre MOToperation) and at least get hem to clean up your bottom (whoops)! In Norwich we have a company that will clean,dry and rustproof underside of an MX5 for around £70 which probably ain’t much more than the cost of getting the stuff out of your hair, off the floor, off your jeans etc if you try DIY. Good luck anyway. Doug
70.00 thats an absolute steal…do they have any details online or is it just a small operation. i got quoted 80.00 but i dont think that would have included getting it cleaned up.
Hi Doug
Who is it in Norwich that does it for that price and do you know what treatment they use? Just thinking of getting mine treated before its first winter.
See this is your first post. Are you new to the forum or to Mx5s? If so, welcome aboard.
Julian
Hello Julian and others.
Thanks for your kind words and , yes, I am new to both posting and Mx5s. Sadly my status is now that of a crumbly so I am one of those white hair BOFs you see driving in all weathers with the top down and with ridiculously low insuerence premiums. The treatment is Waxyoil and is only for underbody not doors, box sections etc. From my personal experience of many years on the manufactiring side of the motor industry I doubt the value of these post manufacturing “cavity” treatments as, since the mid 90s, most cars have had some kind of electrocoat in the body manufacturing process. The company concerned is located at http://rustbuster.webs.com/aboutus.htm - they are a family business and in typically Norfolk style are not “hard sell” Dell Boys but are genuinely keen to help. No I am not a family member and not on any kind of commision!! Give them a call and see what I mean. Regards.
I used Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax inside my rear wheel arches - very impressed with the product and finish. I posted some pics up.
Bumping an old thread.
I’d like to hear from anyone who has done DIY Dinitrol. How messy am I and the drieway going to be afterwards?
Thanks.
I have just finished doing this to my Mk1.
I did it on the drive. Took all the arch liners off, cleaned out front wing areas where sludge builds up, seats out, carpet up, sill covers etc lifted. The hand washed the whole underside of car (got it up on axle stands) using very hot water and scrubbing brushes/hose etc. Then treated any existing rusty areas (there wasn’t much thankfully) with the Dinitrol rust converter, then did sills, doors, and other cavities with the Dinitrol cavity wax. Finally did the underside, arches, chassis rails, sub frame etc with the Dinitrol underseal. I did it bit by bit over the course of several weekends etc. It wasn’t too messy. Just used large sheets of cardboard underneath car. I did get quite mucky obviously, especially with the underseal stuff. I thoroughly recommend using some goggles, a mask, gloves and the shower cap thing that comes with the Dinitrol kits. I used one of the Dinitrol small car kits. But I did run out of the underseal and had to order two more cans of that.
Yes it took a long time, Yes it was cold, The car was off the road for a while, am I pleased I did it?..Damn right I am!
Go on, give it a go. At least you know you will have done a proper job.
Chris
Cheers Chris.
Did you have to drill access holes in the sill to spray inside? I’ve not yet looked at mine so can’t quite imagine where the holes might be. (from inside the car I guess)
Will, if you take the black plastic scuff strips off from the door opening you will reveal many holes in which you can squirt Waxoyl or Dinitrol cavity wax. I used both
, as Waxoyl has rust inhibitor and Dinitrol cavity wax doesn’t say it does.
If you remove the rear arch liners you will also see a rubber bung and screw hole wich gives access to the sills, but with the Dinitrol extension tube you can reach this point from the holes when the scuff strip is removed.
Will,
What he said!!
If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
Chris
Update 
This w/e I found time to apply Dinitrol to the car. I had some other TLC jobs that needed doing aswell, like painting the inside of the floor and repairing a cracked wheel arch liner.
For those who own a car getting on in the years I can highly recommend having the undersealed. My car was done in 2005 when it was originally imported. Judging my the state on the body I’d say it needs re-apply at least every 4-5 years.
The steps I took were:
Wash body underside and wheel arches with Marine Clean.
Leave to dry over night
Paint rusty areas with POR15 rust converter
Leave to dry over night
Spray underside, wheel arches and sub-frames with Dinitrol
I also painted the inside of the floor with POR15
Plugged the various holes from previous seat and roll-bar installations
Painted a top coat
If anyone is considering doing this I can recommend laying down plastic sheets on the floor as the excess wax will drip out of the sills and has the consistency of Bovril when setting!
Before photos:
After photos:
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_JgYb8Xww3js/TarBNMQ1vMI/AAAAAAAAFr8/hBe5N5IIOEY/s800/P1070150.JPG[/IMG
I’ve just done my Mk2 with a small car kit from rejel
I used a compressor and it was a satisfying job to do
The biggest pain was getting the underside clean and dry enough to apply the stuff
After reading about this for a few days and speaking to REJEL this morning, I’ve just ordered and will be doing this over xmas.
Thought I’d post as I found the following out which saved me a few pounds.
I very nearly ordered the DIN02S kit which would have come in at £75.84, and was going to add another RC900 rust convertor as 1 didn’t sound enough. After a little investigation I realised that the DIN02ST kit had the same as the DIN02S kit minus the RC900 and plastic bungs. The MX5 doesn’t need the bungs, as you don’t need to drill any additional holes for access. The DIN02ST kit is £50.88, and the RC900 can is £17.94, so ordering the 2 seperately is a little cheaper. I ended up ordering 2xRC900 at £31.14, making the total £82.02. Then with the 10% MX5OC discount applied the total came to £73.81 . Apparently delivery is quite quick with these guys, so even with the xmas post I’m hopeful of having this pre-xmas.
Hope that helps anyone thinking of doing this over xmas 
