Does the BBR Super 225 (ITB's) still leave room for a strut brace?

:flushed: They seem a bit worse for wear if I’m honest. I’m just right at that point on deciding whether to spring for the full set.
I’d have hoped they looked a bit less forlorn in such a relatively short time :pensive:

In fairness, Reggie, Tizzy is my daily (169k on the clock) and while I wash the outside, I rarely touch the underside. Add to the fact I live by the sea…poor little Tizzy takes a bashing.

But…I was a bit surprised how bad the rear brace was.

Hi Lewigie
Interesting that you have the Ohlins and same chassis braces.
What ARB’s are you running and how do you find the ride quality?
I’m running RX8 orange dots front and rear and still find the car a little too firm for a lot of UK roads. The rear will ‘skip’ if you go over a bump in the road and I’m running minimal damping adjustment.
Fangio246

I’m lying, just found a picture from when I received them. Exactly 2 years ago on Tuesday.

IL Motorsports ARB kit from MX5 Parts. Maybe a bit soft as Tizzy still wallows a little. 4 wheel alignment on a Hunters machine was the best value per £ I’ve ever done :grinning:


Hi Lewigie
Be interesting to get your geo numbers and what click settings you run your Ohlins on?
My geo is:
Front camber - negative 2 degrees per side
Toe - 4 mins toe in per side
Rear camber - negative 2 degrees per side
Toe - 8 mins toe in per side
Cheers
A

Now you’ve got me.
I’ve not done anything other than standard settings for alignment and not touched the geometry on the struts and I’ve not really experimented much with the rebound but tend to stick with 3 clicks all round for road and 10 clicks front and 12 rear on track. Could do with spending some time at Roddisons.
Tizzy was originally owned by Blink Motorsport (not Frasers car, but his brothers) so was probably set up really well once, however, I’ve since had both subframes out for refurbishment, so might need some fine tuning.

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Hi Lewigie
I think the standard setting Rodders uses is something around
Front camber 1 degree 40 mins negative
4 mins toe in per side
Rear camber 2 degrees negative
10 mins toe in per side
When you say 10 clicks front and 12 rear. You do realise the front, where the engine weight is, should be stiffer than the back.
So for track the back should be about 2 to 3 clicks softer than the front. So your 10 clicks front should be from full hard and then your 12 clicks rear from full hard will make the back 2 clicks softer.
Fangio