I’ve had my mk2 5 for a few months and have worked out some of its strengths and quirks. I was just wondering if any of you folks would like to share your driving (or otherwise) tips. This might relate to gear changing/power bands, cornering, braking, weight distribution, fuel… the list goes on.
1.8L or 1.6L?/ Five or six speed box?
1.8L 5 speed.
Thank you! Do you have any problems shifting from 1st to 2nd gear? - If so I have a solution.
Power band (HP and Torque) are miles apart at low revs, one reason why the car may seem gutless at low speeds. Having said that, the HP isn’t great either at low revs, but both climb with rev’s, and start to meet at around 5,500 rpm. (that;'s the start of real boost) this continues up to around 6,500, when the HP keeps climbing while torque starts gradually to fall away. Normally you will hardly reach boost, as town driving won’t let you, but the power is there if and when you do. I hit redline (7,200 rpm) twice early on, in second gear both times, since then I haven’t been near it, no need.
As you’ve probably found out, using the gears is the best way to drive the car, I usually shift up when I reach +2,000 rev’s in any gear around town, but 2nd gear is great for slow moving traffic, and 1st for dead slow. I have a six speed box, so it overlaps yours at bottom and top end, though not to a great degree. Mileage? not great, mine averages around 30 mpg, but that varies, depending on where I go. I don’t check it much, you accept you own a sportscar, so usage is minor to fun.
I’m an ‘old school’ driver (scoffed at by some) so I use the gears more than the brakes, as an example I change down to third or second gear when approaching stop lights, rather than the modern method of hurtling to them and slamming on the anchors. Going slower in gear often means the lights change before I get to them, so I can accelerate (if there’s space) or just dip the clutch if needs be and then release it. Either way I don’t often have to stop, unless there’s a lot of traffic around at the time. The modern way sees heavier tyre and brake wear, one reason why I’m only on the third set of pads in nearly fifteen years - though the middle set weren’t Mazda pads, but recommended ‘good ones’ (more brake dust than ever experienced, so soon changed them.) Only time I slam the brakes hard on is down to other road users, that doesn’t need an explanation. Pedestrians included!
As I’ve experienced two ‘sticky’ offside calipers, my tip would be check your wheel temperatures on the offside after a long drive (more than ten minutes) as a sticking caliper will affect the wheel temperature.
My mechanic (also an MOT tester) says sticky calipers on the offside are common among many makes of car with disc brakes,so it’s not an exclusive MX5 fault. Also had a front offside ABS sensor replaced, possibly for the same reason.
Oh - Petrol - I’ve run for years on supermarket Petrol (Tesco and Asda) and only tried more expensive brands once (in France) as it seemed to be all they had. Performance increase? - not a lot, and slightly better mileage, but neither enough to convince me it offered a long term solution. ( I still remember when petrol was 24 pence per gallon - - - -)
Otherwise, never had any real problems, - thanks to Mazda. (ignoring the clutch issue 2001 to 2003) If yours was built between those dates then tell me if you experience any problem with a juddering clutch, though it will cost you to fix I’m afraid. Cam belt, drive belts and water pump need changing every 6,000 miles, the owners handbook doesn’t tell you that (if you have one) The water pump doesn’t fail, but you need the cam belt off to change it. Change engine oil and filter every year if you do high mileage, otherwise at not more than two year intervals Max. Old oil should be clean, if it isn’t, you have problems. Gear box and rear transmission also needs checking and changing at longer intervals, I don’t do high mileage these days so it’s every few years. Other issues I leave to my mechanic, he’s copious about greasing bit’s and bobs.
As you may have found out already, avoid tailgaters and high vans and lorries behind you, if you brake suddenly you are so low they often can’t see your brake lights. On motorways I generally stick to the middle lane for that reason. And an old tip, don’t pull up close behind a van or truck, they can’t see you behind them, and if they reverse, you will be in trouble - always stay clear behind them.
Finally, if you want to know how your car (and you) handle, then look out for our annual bash at Curborough sprint track next year, the fee is minimal, and the drive is great fun. (One car on track at a time, so if you do a 360 no-one is going to run into you.) It’s for members only, so now is the time to sign up?
Anything I missed? Enjoy the car - we do.
Going back to my motorbike days there was much discussion over what gear to use at what speed (racing aside) and on an advanced riding course the suggestion was
3rd in a 30, (speed limit) 4th in a 40, 5th in a 50 and 6th in a 60.
I have the mk 2.5 sport with a 6 speed box and find that this old adage fits the car perfectly, as the engine does love to rev.
Not quite the same however as your five speed as your 4th is my 5th.
I just hate to hear an engine labour and judder.
On the subject of judder, my car is an '03 and does suffer from clutch judder on pull away from standstill. I just assumed this was a fault with my car and not a general MX5 fault ?
Paul G
Paul - Hi.
Last sentence - clutch judder. Up to around spring 2004 (if my fading memory is still correct) most Mk2.5’s were fitted with either the first clutch plate, or minor improvements, none of which really cured the judder.
Three TSB’s issued, each covering a supposed improvement, but each failing to cure the problem. The last TSB in fact meant the reverse of the original problem, it juddered when the transmission was warmed up, where the original clutch (2001/02) juddered when cold, but it did get worse. I drove from the outskirts of Nottingham to Derby (about twelve miles) and went round an island in second, and it juddered like mad. -
Second visit to dealer, they then agreed I had the problem,
There was never a recall issued, so Club members at the time were aware of the problem, but hundreds of non-members weren’t. Dealers developed a quick response to complaints, they went out of their way to deny there were any problems. Common replies to any question regarding the clutch were met with “They all do that - it’s a sportscar” - or “It’s a common thing with sportscars, you just need to get used to it”.
- I didn’t invent those words, they were repeated by members at the time.
Towards the end of 2003 Mazda UK, responding to a world wide problem, finally solved it by bringing out a new clutch plate - a type E, which was successful, and from later that year this plate became OEM fit till the end of Mk2.5 (NBFL) production, Spring 2005.
Cure? From a dealer - expensive; from a trusted private garage. less cost. Various standard JDM clutches were fitted to some cars from 2002 onward, at owners cost. They all cured the problem. Those of us in the Club were determined to get a new fix under warranty, and most did, despite some being out of that period.
Mazda finally decided to revert to the standard warranty, which was (and is) 9,000 miles or twelve months, for what are regarded as ‘Wear and tear items’ - like clutch plates, brake pads, etc. This means anyone who was unaware of the problem missed out on any or all of the changes, and may eventually have sold the car when they became fed up with it. New owners are obviously caught in the ‘fall out’ and either find out what the problem was, or get it fixed, or in some cases may sell the car again.
Cause, according to one source, the facing material on the clutch plate had too much nickel content, which resulted in hot spots being created on the flywheel, these in turn then suffered from deposits of material on those spots, which meant - in Mazda’s words “Stick/slip” and that was the wording on the TSB’s
Another issue (confirmed in a discussion between myself and the service manager at Maidenhead) was about tolerances, which according to one poster on Miata.net, may be contributing to the problem. The original pester commented that “Due to Ford influence” (Rumours at the time were “Detroit bean counters at Mazda were pushing tolerances, which may be the cause of the judder”. I put this comment to the manager, and he agreed that tolerance differences “Would not cause judder, but could amplify it”. From this I figured that if wide tolerance suspension components were all in the same parts bin, then a car could either be fitted with all bad tolerances, or a combination of good and bad. This explained why some cars really suffered from judder, and others varied between mild to ‘so so’. The mild ones often did 2/3,000 miles before becoming aware of the problem, one new car was returned to the dealer as “Totally unfit to drive” and the owner got a full refund. Other similar cars were eventually repaired.
However, Mazda have NEVER admitted the tolerance problem, or it’s effect on a car of the period, which in my mind is understandable, as it would cost them even more than the eventual fix on a world wide problem.
They finally cured the clutch, so that was good enough in itself, in my mind.
In you case, if it’s bad, then find a good garage (I can tell you two - one at Chatham and one at Nuneaton,) but there are others. If it’s acceptable, then live with it, saving a few hundred quid. NEVER rely on revs to get you out of it, de-clutch and try again. Revving will add to the eventual problem. (A ‘cure’ suggested by some drivers.) DIY I personally would never suggest, it’s a long and arduous job. Mazda gave dealers two and a half hours to do it, and most said it took longer (one reason why they were reluctant to offer it)
From my early days in the Club, I remember it took two experienced members a full day to change a clutch on a Mk1, aided by a case of beer - - - - assume what you will!
“Cam belt, drive belts and water pump need changing every 6,000 miles, the owners handbook doesn’t tell you that”
Every 6,000 miles? I’ve never heard of any cam belt, drive belt or water pump that needs changing so often. Either for an MX-5 or any other car, for that matter.
Sorry, you are correct, slip of the mind. It should say every six years. The owners handbook says mileage only, but I was shot down by members who corrected that with quotes from other manufacturers who all advise changing cam belts at six year intervals. I also checked back on the suppliers website (Gates) and found out their guarantee was six years or mileage related (whichever comes first)
Stupid mistake, but thanks for pointing it out to me.
You got me going for a while though - it would mean mine is overdue by about thirty five thousand miles, 
!
Thanks Gerryn, a very informative post. I will bear that in mind.
Paul G
Thanks also Gerryn, as mentioned, a very informative post. I’ve found my powerband starts around 3.5K, but I’ll try sticking with it up until 6.5K.
That’s the VVT kicking in. It does make a difference! My car has been dyno’ed three times, and using the VVT, the power band shows clearly where the real power is.
If you don’t know how to hell and toe already then learn how to do it. Some old boys will tell you it’s better for the gearbox (not a component which wears out too often these days) but the real reason is that it is immensely satisfying to get right, makes a satisfying noise and makes for far smoother driving when you are pressing on , especially if you go on track . And it makes you feel like a driving god …
Off topic I know, but I would argue that you are more likely to get high vans behind you in the middle lane especially if the left lane is clear. Indeed if you are driving at such a pace where you would have lorries close behind you in the left lane then the middle lane is definately the wrong one to be in.
And one can now be given a fixed penalty for what a police officer considers middle lane hogging - £100, 3 points for careless driving.
New penalties to tackle tailgating and middle lane hogging
Not that it seems to have made much difference, and motorway driving standards generally seem to be getting worse. The MX-5 is not a great motorway car. Traffic noise, roof up or down, makes the radio all but inaudible and is very tiring; perhaps because the car is so small, other vehicles get far too close.About 60 mph in lane 1 is fast enough to prevent Large Goods Vehicles catching up, as most are physically limited to 56. But at anything under about 75 mph you will have white van man right up your chuff in lane 2.
I detest middle lane hoggers, it forces experienced drivers to move from the left lane to the right lane and back again just pass an illegal hogger.
If you’re doing anything approaching 100mph (I don’t but observe) in any lane you’ll still have white van man and these big motorway type cruisers (cars) sitting up your a=== wanting to get past.
This is why I hate M ways, especially in the MX-5
Apparently some definition is needed. If the motorway is quiet, then I drive in the slow lane. If see congestion ahead then I get ready to move onto the center lane, judging the distance between trucks and their relative speed. The one at the back my be the one who is moving faster, so at some point he will pull over to pass the slower traffic. If the right (fast lane) is clear then I’ll move onto it, allowing the truck to move over at the same time. If the fast lane is packed, then I’ll slow down, flash the truck driver (most of whom start signalling anyway)_ to allow him to pull out in front of me. Being considerate, I appreciate the effort in driving a HGV and that time is also the essence of the way they drive. With most it’s a pleasure, especially when they give me thumbs up as I pass them, or move back onto a lower lane to let me by. I’m rarely in a mad rush to get somewhere on time, whereas they may well be, if travelling long distance.
White van man (especially Merc sprinters) I give a wide berth too, average speed seems to be 80-90 mph, and I’m not prepared to hog the lane if front of them when they are obviously bearing down on me. Rarely seen any HGV travelling at 56 mph, dunno where you get that (speed limited) from?
I try to maintain 70 mph on motorways, if that’s nor fast enough for following drivers then I’ll get out of their way. Faster traffic can be 1) white van man 2) any BMW or Merc 3) most Fiesta and Focus drivers 4) Oddballs in Fiat 500’s, Minis and Kars - with engines revving their heart out. The ones who get my goat are the drivers who cannot maintain a constant speed, so I pass them when they are only doing 65, and they return the move by passing me at 75 or 80. Seen this happen several times in a ten mile trip down the M1.
Upset at being passed by an MX5 (sportscar - Mazda?) but why do they slow down to 60 or 65 once they’ve passed me?
So, depending on the traffic considerations I drive in any lane where i can maintain my speed, slow, center or fast, but in high congestion areas I usually drive in the center lane - where it’s safer. Lower stretches of the M1 and of course the M25 are a different kettle of fish, driving with or outside the law and posted (signed) speed limits are a joke. Constantly changing limits on the M25 just lead to congestion, even when there’s five lanes. In one section you can do 70, and the next it says 40, so traffic comes to a halt, or at a best, a slow crawl. How come I’m crawling when cars in the fast lane are whizzing by? - Well over 70 mph?
Excluding the M25, I enjoy motorway driving, much more than A or B roads, where the next corner means facing the possibility of more hazards ahead, whether it’s horse riders, cyclists, walkers, or the dreaded farm tractors. Only problem is congestion, where you drive with awareness of what’s all around you - if you want to stay safe. In that sense, it’s no different to a trackday, which is also what appeals to me about Motorways. “Stay alert, even when it’s quiet.”
In a different car, I was driving on motorways well before there was one in the UK.
Err… you have a car which excels around corners and which is far from an ideal high speed cruiser(wind noise etc ) but you PREFER motorways (no bends, no scenery , usually heavy traffic ) to A and B roads ? Gosh …