Hi all does anyone know of a photo how to for doing this. I’ve heard it’s a simple replacement job but just want to be 100% sure before I attempt it, cheers.
tony
No photos here but assuming you are talking about the rear anti-roll bar drop links then they really are very easy to change. You take the wheel off and it’s a case of removing the two bolts. The biggest hassle can be getting the lower swing arm into the right position when you come to refit the link but sticking a jack under the arm worked for me.
As simple as any job gets…2 bolts on each. But if they’ve been on there a while, you’ll need to plusgas them for a few days first, and be prepared to need to split the nuts and buy new ones.
That’s a good point - now I recall it the first time I had to replace one I had to use an angle grinder to get one of the bolts out. I had doubtless suppressed that unpleasant memory.
don’t forget to put the car on the ground before finally tightening the bolts up in order to make sure the position is correct.
Pretty hard to get under the car and access the drop link bolts when the car is on its wheels. Given that the links are designed to rotate at either end to allow movement of the wishbone and roll bar I think it’s a fairly safe bet that they will adopt the correct position once the car is on its wheels. As far as I know the only time you need to do the drop links with the car on its wheels is when you are fitting an adjustable one to one side to avoid preloading.
smudgyboy is correct, all suspension bushes “should” be final tightened with the suspension in its normal running position. By design suspension bushes should not rotate in their housing, the rubber should flex. I agree that it is hard to tighten the bolts with the car on the ground. I normally raise the suspension using a trolly jack to it’s running position while the car is still on axle stands with the wheels off, then tighten suspension bolts.
Is my memory playing tricks, or do I recall a technical feature by Robbie on this subject in Soft top hard top some time ago? I seem to remember very useful advice on what to do when the hexagon recess in the knuckle is corroded/ rounded out etc. so that the knuckle can be held to enable removal of the nut.
Regards Geoff Peace.
You’re thinking of NB anti-roll bar links Geoff. They are a ball joint rather than a bush as fitted on NAs.
Oh dear, so I am. Silly me. Well spotted Robbie! Apologies to all for my mistake.
Regards Geoff Peace.
One of the best tools for this job if you are on your drive will be the OE scissor jack in the boot.
M-m