The digital clock on my MK2 has stopped working,and there is no voltage on theyellow lead feeding 12v to the car radio.This is the wire ,which sad power on even when the ignition id switchd off.Does anyone know which fuse feeds these .It would help,rather than having to check every fuse Len
Not shown as a yellow wire in my wiring diagram, are you looking at the patch lead wires rather than the original car wiring harness? The radio is protected by the 10A RADIO fuse and the 10A ROOM fuse. The clock shares both fuses.
I have just removed every fuse ,and as usual it was the very last on that had blown .I think they call it Sods law.Thanks again
The ROOM fuse is the ‘hot’ one, connected via other fuses to the battery. It also controls various other
circuits, so more than one circuit could be effected.
Where is the room fuse.
I have the same problem.
I accidentally crossed the wires for the electric arial.
No fuses blown inside car!!!
Hello I found it was red fuse on the interior fuse panel.The last one I tried Len
This is driving me nuts!!!
I have checked all the fuses and none are blown.
Because both the radio and the Hazard/Indicators are not working I am now thinking would it be a relay switch???
Tried to find out where the relay switch is for the Hazards but no joy.
Help!!!
Which model car do you have? A Mk1/Mk2/ Mk3 ?
2.5 Miata 2003
Right - there are two fuses associated with the radio and antenna - 10 amp (RED) ROOM fuse and 10 amp RADIO fuse (also red) Fuse locations are marked a) on the fusebox cover and b) on the backing plate where the fuses plug in. You need to examine the top of both fuses, where you will see the two elements coming up from each pin, and the fuse link across the top of these. If the fuse has blown, then there’s no visible link.
The turn/hazard flash circuits are independent of the above fuses, nor should a radio (or room) fuse blowing affect this circuit. BUT - has the radio been changed from OEM to non standard at any time? It’s possible that whoever did this may have tapped into the hazard circuit for a live feed, which would mean both radio and turn signals would be affected if the short on the antenna wires occurred. Doing this would allow the radio to turn on (and antenna to rise) without using the ignition switch in either ACC or run positions. (not a good idea)
So - if this was the case, then you need to check the 10 amp HAZARD fuse first, and the 50 amp IG KEY fuse - which is the main fusebox under the bonnet. ROOM, RADIO and HAZARD fuses are in the right hand dash fuse box, down below your right knee, when sitting in the drivers seat.
Supposedly, all Mk 2’s came with a fuse puller inside the dash fuse box - mine didn’t and I have yet to meet a man that has one. Easiest way to pull a fuse out is with with a pair of long nose pliers (some call them ‘needle nose’) and to view them properly, you do need to pull them out. I have fingers that one workmate called ‘pork chops’ so slender fingers do help, if you don’t have any long nose pliers.
If you can’t find a blown fuse, then we both have a problem! Most dash fusebox fuses are around 27p from most sources, but if you mail order they will cost more - obviously.
Thanks Gerryn for the comprehesive reply.
believe it or not my mx has the fuse puller but it is useless.I have used long nosed pliers to pull them out.
Do you know where the Relay is for the hazards???
Thanks for taking the time to help!!!
No relay, it’s another (empty) box on the wiring diagram - assume it is exchanged for a replacement unit, as are many ‘empty’ boxes are on the car. It’s called ‘The Flasher Unit’ and appears to be on the right hand sidewall of the footwell - you may have to take the side trim off, not sure, I’ve never looked in that area myself. There are two items shown together, the flasher unit is the right hand side of the two. Both connectors are plug, so if you think it’s faulty, pull them off and either get a replacement from one of our recommended suppliers, (Autolink) or MX5 parts, or last case - your local dealer - you may have to wait for a while in that case. Does the normal turn signal work? If you intend to drive the car, then if they are O/K, hopefully you won’t need the hazard side of the unit, but leave the unit in place till you get a replacement.
It’s either that, or a return to hand signals - which many drivers today don’t know what they mean.
Quote from one of my favourite writers, Art Buchwald, who said “If you are driving in Paris, and the woman in front is waving her hand up and down frantically, it doesn’t mean she’s trying to attract anyones attention - she’s probably drying her nail polish” - - - - -
Thank you gerryn,
I got two for the price of one.
tech expert & comedian
You’re welcome. - So, if mine fails I know where to go!
Update:
All of the fuses are working.I replaced the flasher unit but no joy with indicators and hazards!!!
I am stumped
remember this came from me crosing the wires of the electic aerial which has cut off the radio and the Hazzards etc.
Has anyone come across this before??
You have a power supply missing.Check all pins at the flasher unit to verify there is a voltage to any of them with ignition on and off.
Sorry - only just seen this. According to my manual (mazda’s official electrics for the Mk2.5) The OEM radio is fed from two fuses, each in turn protected by bigger fuses, close to the battery feed. So, we have the 10 amp ROOM fuse, backed up by the 40 amp HEAD fuse, fed directly from the Battery. The ROOM fuse - as mentioned before, protects several other circuits as well as the radio live feed, which at a guess powers the onboard clock.
The main feed to the radio itself is via the RADIO fuse, which is backed up by the 60 amp IG KEY fuse, and then the 100 amp MAIN fuse, which if blown means the car is dead as a dodo. My guess is the RADIO fuse supplies the powered anttenna, as it can’t rise till the radio is switched on.
The Hazard circuit is protected by the 10 amp HAZARD fuse, in turn backed up by the 20 amp BTN2 fuse and again by the 100 amp MAIN fuse. Turn signals are fed from the 7.5 amp TURN fuse, backed up by the 60 amp IG KEY fuse and again by the 100 amp MAIN fuse.
So - each circuit is ultimately reliable on the 100 amp main fuse, if this is dead - (repeat) the Car is dead as a dodo.
Now, this started you said, when you crossed the two antenna wires - this shouldn’t blow anything, as both are positive (live circuits) so unless you also accidentally connected both wires to earth (Chassis) then crossing them will NOT blow a fuse. The smaller fuses are in the lower dash fusebox, the bigger fuses are under the bonnet, with the 100 amp fuse being a pig to get to, as it’s in the lower half of the main fusebox under the bonnet. As I’ve said, car dead as a adodo if it’s blown. Also, puzzle - both ends of the antenna wires are plug and socket, how do you cross the wires?
So - come back to what I said earlier - has the car got the original radio in it, or a different model? Most ‘I love this one’ radios do not match standard connectors, they have different ones, and it’s always necessary to modify wiring to get the new one to work. An amateur may do something wrong, in his frantic desire to get his new pride and joy to work, which means he has no car wiring diagram, or any idea of what he’s doing either, so we both finish up with a conundrum which doesn’t match known logic. If that’s the case, then I can only suggest taking the car to a good auto electrician and ask him to sort it. If you live anywhere near Nottingham, and it’s not raining, snowing or otherwise threatening then I will be pleased to help if I can, but as a non OEM radio is no help unless the original instructions are available, though I have found in the past that some manufacturers do allow downloads of instructions if they are reputable.
PM me if this helps?