In the process of removing the engine in my mk3 as she was consuming oil, possibly a cracked ring as compression is down by 1/2 of what the other 3 cylinders are. Question is has anyone fitted the Ford engine in the mk3 as it appears it is the same engine as fitted to Focus/Mondeo’s.
I AM NO EXPERT BUT RUMOUR HAS IT ,NO ,THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE ,ALTHOUGH SIMILAR.THAT MAKES SENSE AS MONDEO/FOCUS DO NOT GIVE THE OIL BURNING/CRANK PROBLEMS THAT MAZDA HAVE.MONDEO CAN GO 200/300K MILES NO PROBLEM WITH REGULAR SERVICING.MAZDA 70K ISH
ITS THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS TURNING ON THE CRANK/BIG END CAPS THAT CAUSE THE ISSUES APPARENTLY
As I see it, you have two solutions, and bearing in mind what MX5 123 just said, I’d take the second. !) Find a local engine refurbisher/rebuilder, and get the existing engine fixed.
2) get a good Mk2.5 engine - it has VVT on board, but this can be removed without major problems, you just need a blanking cover where the VVT was. (Freelance Mazda have done this several times) Beauty of this is - you will finish up with a better engine than came with the Mk3, which was disappointing to see in several regards. Check the specs, to see what I mean. My oil usage appears to be zero, only time I topped it up was after a service, when the car was not run to distribute oil around the engine, till I collected it. Took less than 1/8 of a litre to bring it up to the full mark. That speaks volumes to me. Oil changes? every 2/3000 miles, depending on weather, and usage. It always comes out clean as new. One of the best engines I’ve ever had in a car.
the mondeo doesn’t have vvt, IF you try to fit the Mazda head on the mondeo bottom end the Pistons doesn’t have the pockets to allow valve advance…the head/block doesn’t have the mating oil feed for vvt.
the Ford crank pulley has different trigger wheel to that of the Mazda and unless you swap it the ECU won’t fire correctly.
All, Thanks for the advice and the option of the ford lump will be put aside. However mx5123 the option of the mk2.5 engine is interesting, do you know anyone who has undertaken this I can speak to for tips?
lessr
Ring Mark Fryer at Freelance Mazda (01634 829444) and ask him if it’s possible. He’ll tell you yes or no, and he will know if anyone does. Best time - for him, is lunch time, otherwise he may have grease on his hands, and won’t welcome the interruption.
People are fitting V6 and V8 engines in (in earlier cars I admit) and in one case - in the states, a Yank fitted a S2000 engine in - where there’s a will - there’s always a way.
The “Mk2.5” engine won’t fit. Well, it will, but you will have to rip out and change a lot of the car’s electronics. I have never heard of anyone trying to put in a BP engine into a Mk3, and can’t fathom why anyone would do this.
In the US, fitting a 2.5l engine from a Mazda3 is “popular” (being relative, its not exactly commonplace). I don’t think this engine is that commonplace here.
As soon as you start messing around with different engines, you have to make a declaration to the insurers, and find your car is now uninsurable as it is now modified.
On facebook search for nc mx-5 2.5 club and you will find the group.
From the group
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only prudent we start a pinned post with Q&A/ FAQ on 2.5L swaps. This is by no means a step by step of everything that must be done in order to swap. Plenty of common sense and mechanical knowledge is required. This post is open for updates and suggestions also! Don’t hesitate.
REQUIRED PARTS: -Duratec 2.5L motor (preferably Ford origin for better internals) -VVT solenoid gasket from 2.5L valve cover -Larger injectors (2.5L injectors will work) -Balance shaft delete set (online) -Timing kit for Duratec motors (for installing crank pulley) (online) -NGK Laser iridium spark plugs, LTR5BI-13 (if NA) (auto parts store) -Serpentine belt 6PK2310 (auto parts store) -Mazda oil dipstick PE07-10-450 (dealership/online) -Wiring pigtail to 2.5L VVT solenoid (source?) -2x diamond washers for crank assembly (dealership/online) -Tube of RTV/liquid gasket (auto parts store)
-Parts from stock 2.0L: ->oil pan ->oil filter brick ->valve cover ->crank pulley ->fuel rail ->intake manifold ->pulleys & tensioner ->accessories ->intake manifold runner (should be ported to match 2.5L head)
Maintenance/upgrade opportunities: -Rear main seal -Front main seal -Valve cover gasket -Replace starter -Clean intake manifold -Clutch/flywheel -Aluminum PCV breather -Motor mounts -EGR delete -Cams -Radiator -Header/full exhaust -Oil cooler -Turbo/supercharger system -Catch can -Upgraded intake manifold
HOW TO CONVERT 2.0L to 2.5L: -Remove oil pan, valve cover, intake manifold, and any other external accessories or attachments from 2.5L motor -Remove sensor between cyl 2 and 3 on 2.5L motor -Transfer VVT solenoid gasket from 2.5L valve cover to 2.0L valve cover -Install balance shaft delete -Cut notch on timing cover to clear belt routing to power steering pump -Port match 2.0L intake manifold runners to 2.5L, use RTV to seal to head -Transfer 2.0L components to 2.5L motor (motor mounts, pulleys, sensors, wiring harness, etc) -Transfer crank pulley, replacing the diamond washers -Install clutch/flywheel
HOW TO REMOVE IT FROM THE TOP: -Recover AC system (optional but can make life easier) -Drain engine oil and coolant -Disconnect PS pump and move aside -Disconnect AC compressor from motor (if system wasn’t drained) -Remove header & midpipe -Remove transmission -Remove motor -Prepare 2.5L motor for installation (see above) -Reassemble everything -Refill coolant -Refill AC system (replace the drier) -Tune ECU
HOW TO REMOVE FROM BOTTOM: -Recover AC system -Drain engine oil and coolant -Remove midpipe & disconnect driveshaft from diff -Support transmission -Remove PPF -Remove shock tower nuts -Disconnect PS pump -Disconnect flexible clutch line -Remove lower radiator supports -Disconnect steering column -Drain power steering fluid -Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses -Support subframe -Carefully remove the nuts and bolts that hold the subframe and underside brace -Carefully lower assembly away from body (or raise body if on lift) -Prepare 2.5L motor for installation (see above) -Reassemble everything -Refill coolant and power steering fluid -Refill AC system (replace the drier) -Bleed clutch line -Tune ECU
I think the last MZR engines were actually built in a Ford facility, as Mazda had gone SkyActiv on every other model but the MX-5 Mk3.75. Mine had a FoMoCo oil filter when new.