Hi all,
Daft question time. I’m aware that in order to fit the cabin brace from a 1.8 into a 1.6 you need to modify some trim - but exactly what do you need to do, how hard is it, and are there any other issues?
I would really appreciate seeing some pictures if you have them…
Did a quick forum search, but couldn’t find anything - apologies if this has been asked before.
Any and all help/advice gratefully received.
All the best,
cj
Try here
Looks harder then it is, I have done it 3 times now, the nuts are almost always there, so just make a hole and pop in a bolt.
Steve
Never come across a pre-1993 car with the captive nuts in place. There is a hole present, used during the bodyshell assembly. This hole was never intended for a cockpit brace, but US fed regulations meant Mazda had to improvise. Some bolts might “catch” the edge of the metal, but in those cases I don’t suppose the brace will be doing much (stiffening the shell). 90hp Mk1 1.6 models though will have the captive nuts present, because the brace was purposely deleted in these cars.
Which ever way you fit this brace, you will need to fit the bar before refitting the tower plastic trim; which means you have to cut an open ended slot in the trim, rather than drilling a hole as used on the 1.8. How you cut this depends on your sawing abilities.
With no captive bolt in place, there are two approaches; upend a bolt through the seatbelt tower (remove the seatbelt assembly to gain access. You will need a socket and some wobble extensions. Fit the bar, tighten down the nut, then hacksaw off the excess thread to allow the end pieces on the bar to be fitted. This approach has the advantage in that its less easy to lose the bolt in the seatbelt tower (so less frustration). The other approach is to manouvre a nut inside the seatbelt tower; so you are working blind, onto the end of a bolt. You will probably need a deep socket for this. I recommend a dab of grease on the socket to reduce the chances of the nut falling out as you fiddle around.
Cutting the trim; best to use Mk1 eyeball to work out where to cut. If you keep the cut to “under” where the bar fits, you can minimise its impact. Keep the bits of plastic you cut out, as you may be able to use them to “close” off the slot after the tim has been fitted.
On my last MK1 1.6 I just drilled the hole in the plastic, there was still enough room for the seatbelt anchors to move around.
Just lucky !
Steve
No captive bolt in a 1990 UK car. Bolt might catch on the sheet metal, but eventually it will strip.
Thanks guys.
I’m currently out of the country, so no means to check my car, but does anyone know whether this fits an early mk1 as they claim:
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3945
I suppose that perhaps I should be looking at getting a proper roll bar, but a bit concerned about being bashed on the bonce should someone rear-end the car…
Thanks again.
That should fit. It does not rely on the factory mounting points used by the OE Mazda cabin brace on later Mk1s, and unless I am mistaken uses the same mounting points as the OE Mk2 windblocker. I have fitted a Mk2 windblocker to my Mk1 and this used the tonneau cover studs for one of the fasteners. I had to drill an extra hole and used an M6 bolt and nyloc nut on each side.
Thanks again, guys…