I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __final drive
So, I spent an age looking at forum posts about where or where not to position your jack to raise the rear of the car. All sorts of stuff about where you should or shouldn’t position the jack on the the rear diff.
Common sense tells you its the light end of the car and just because it’s made of something other than steel it might just not fall to pieces. Happy to say the rear of the Mx5 rose to a fine height with not even a tiny protest and is quite stable despite a floor that isn’t perfect.
It should also be mentioned that the official handbook says raise the car on the diff. So why so many posts querying the common view?
I jack the rear up using the jacking points either side because I have trouble getting that far underneath the car with my jack, but I’m not opposed to using the diff.
Please do not go under the car with just a jack under the diff. (or any other single lifting point) You need two axle stands or similar support to ensure a stable and safe working environment. I always slide the wheels under the sills as an extra layer of safety.
Apparently you only die once!!!
^^^^^^ I’ve got just a cheapo Halfords trolly jack. I’d got the front wheels up on Rhino ramps and was well aware I was taking the braked wheels off the ground. I went and bought a 2meter length of tube that fitted perfectly over over the original tube. This allowed me to stand well back.
Even with the car in first gear, the car moved a couple of inches as soon as the back wheels came off the ground!
My drive falls away in both axis so I’m taking this very carefully.
I’ve seen American videos where they jack from the middle of the car. This would suit my circumstances but I’m yet to see a jacking point I’d put my faith in.
Hi, I have just acquired a ND, 2023.
There is no scissor jack, just a puncture repair kit.
The downloaded manual of 550 pages makes no mention of safe trolley jacking points and looking at it underneath, I’m a bit reluctant to try unless I know its OK. I want to do my own anti rust treatment.
Re jacking on the diff, advice given to me about 2-3 years ago, it could crack the diff mounts.
Now I’ve strictly never followed that advice before given and jacked my, Mk1, Mk2 and both Mk3’s there, never a problem.
I have more recently jacked at the side jacking points (rear) and supported the car rear on the rear most part of the chassis rails with a pair of axle stands. I have the luxury of having 2 trolley jacks though so can get each side up easily without the faff of doing one side then move to the other.
You do whatever, just be safe and use supports if going under a car.
Mazda doesn’t support DIY solutions for obvious reasons.
I’ve taken a close look at the diff today. I think as long as you put some wood between jack and the substantial fins it’s not going to be a problem. I’m lifting the front of the car first then pivot on that to get the rear up.
I tried today lifting the rear further with the front wheels on Rhino ramps with the car in first gear. I don’t think this is a good idea as the ramps, though genuine, they haven’t a long enough flat area to chock the wheels. Hence you are relying on the gearbox to keep the car in position.
Tomorrow I’m going to lift the car on the front subframe onto good quality axle stands then raise the rear. My uneven drive is a problem but hope to be able to be comfortable under the car
There is quite a substantial flat area across the fins under where the backplate meets the body of the diff to Jack on, just make sure it’s central on a piece of wood to spread the load across the fins. Once it’s up in the air you can use axle stands on the jacking points but I prefer using some 8x8x4 concrete blocks with 4x2 on top because I don’t like axle stands, they can fold the cill and damage the paint. I use these rubber pads on top of the blocks where they meet the cill with a rag on them to protect the paint.
At the front I use the jacking points with the rubber pads to lift the car then put my blocks under the subframe where it meets the chassis, again on concrete and wood, perhaps with a rag or piece of old carpet.
I’ll happily crawl under a car supported like this, but not on axle stands.
If you aren’t experienced jacking and working under supported cars I’d agree with the previous comment, best not to if you aren’t 100% confident in yourself and the supports.
I’ve got a lot like that in my parking bay:) At the end of the day, crawling under a car that is supported at four points that can be quite small is unsettlingly. I do secondary backup as a matter of course. I should have mentioned that. I’ve been noticing that rear wheel drive needs the car to be a lot higher off the ground for even basic procedures.
For anyone uncomfortable about that should have a look at clutch changes by this guy…
Yep, I always do this as soon as the wheel comes off whether I have axle stands or not. The car is not going to fall off a wheel. Put the wheels face up so you don’t scratch your nice alloy finish on the floor.
