I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __a strange smell and a hot wheel
We took the MX5 out earlier for a 12 mile run doing various errands ready for Xmas. It was the first time it has been out for a few weeks. We noticed a rather unpleasant smell coming out the vents but I just put it down to the heater being on for the first time this year and/or some oil that might have dripped on the exhaust when it was serviced last month. When we arrived back home it was worse. I checked around and noticed the smell was coming from the front offside wheel which was almost too hot to touch. All the other wheels and discs were fine. I’m guessing the caliper has stuck on, but before I get it booked in to the garage are there likely to be any other possible explanations?
It can only be as you suspect, sticking caliper or possibly slide pin(s) seized.
Can be a problem for these cars laid up (unused) for months at a time.
You may want to look up how to free up sticking slider pins as it’s a fairly simple job to do.
You may also believe - quite sensibly - that sitting on the floor in the widdle of minter is not a clever move and that it’s well worth paying a chap to do it for you!
@Jitsuka I did have a look in the Haynes manual and on paper in front of the fire it seems fairly straightforward. I did have a go at the back brake pads once and that didn’t end well, so it has rather put me off messing with brakes, and as you say, the middle of the winter probably isn’t the best time to start. Now I’m happy I know what it is that needs doing then I can go to the garage and tell what to do.
Or just because of usage. Had it on 2 Japanese cars that I used regularly, one of those being my NC. Had to take off the caliper, removed the piston, cleaned everything up, sanded it to remove debris and some corrosion and put it back together. First time I did that, was quite straight forward. I then decided I would do a caliper revision myself in the not too distant future Just seeing if I can find a set of cheap calipers that are reconditionable so I can leave the current ones on till I’m finished witht the job.
They need regular servicing not just the seemingly a check (a eye cast over them) at the annual service as some garages/dealers can do. It’s not on the service schedule for them to do a strip check lube everytime.
I have given my MX-5 brakes the annual strip down clean & lube irrespective of mileage covered, seems to be keeping them working as they should, no seizing.
As Mick says it’s only 15min each brake caliper and if it means you don’t have the problems associated with sticking calipers then it’s worth the time. While the wheels are off it’s a good idea to at least flush the brake fluid from the calipers. You’d be surprised at the muck and rubbish that comes out from even acouple of pedal presses.
Annual servicing of the sliders and bleeding the brakes every year certainly prolongs the life of the calipers, my car is 13 years old and I’ve only just had to replace the front left caliper which was binding due to a sticky piston. I considered a piston rebuild kit but took the easy option to replace it. The car has been around the track numerous times and driven hard regularly.
not sure if this works on the mx5.
but the manta brake calipers had a nasty habit of sticking and a few very VERY Firm whacks with a lump hammer (putting a piece of hardwood against caliper and hitting the wood with the hammer) would usually cure it!
but you did need to know exactly what part to put the wood against!
in the case of the manta is was the carrier slider bolts!
and when they came free they usually made a big click noise!
I don’t think it means a complete strip down/removal just pads and pins out.
It probably takes me 30 mins a corner for inspection clean up and grease.
Not forgetting all the tools, coffee/biscuits and an old f___ like me a good deal longer now
You don’t need to even remove the pads just the slider pins, clean if necessary and re lubricate. It takes longer to raise the car and remove the wheels than remove the slider pins, that’s if they’re not seized of course.
Before going to the expense of calipers and or mounts, try this, when the wheel is off and the brake binding, before stripping anything down or beating it with a Mallet, try this, briefly release the bleed nipple on the affected caliper and retighten, see if the brake is now free, if so your brake flexi hose is failing internally causing the brake to bind.
Back in the early 1970s a friend’s excellent 101 Victor had exactly the same problem as it went through 120,000miles (70,000miles in 18 months mini-cabbing).
We spotted it eventually (after much head scratching) because I was used to the fuel line doing the same thing on my old Fords between engine and body, and always replaced the rubber lines with reinforced fish-tank plastic ones! But he had to use a proper brake line to take the pressure.
He sold it soon after with a lower mileage displayed on the 5 digit speedo than when he bought it, and at a profit!
Had the same problem not long ago,looked into rebuild then saw these,decided,for the price replace both att once.brand new no exchange either.work fantastic.
An update. I finally managed to get the MX5 to the garage for them to look at. They confirmed that the flexible hose did need replacing (thanks @Crowman), but the calliper was also past its best (the rears had to be replaced a year or so ago so I’m not surprised) so they replaced both front hoses and both callipers with recon units. The discs and pads were all okay so they left them alone. I will make sure that the callipers get some attention at service time in future. Thanks to everyone for their input - very much appreciated.
Just seeing if I can find a set of cheap calipers that are reconditionable so I can leave the current ones on till I’m finished witht the job.
