So basically when you pull on the release ring, nothing happens. I had a load of welding done on the underneath at the rear recently and i suspect that caused the cable to snap.
I’m guessing that if I remove the boot trim near the filler cap, i will be able to push a lever to release the flap. Is that right?
The other question is, how difficult is it to replace the cable? Is it easier to create some kind of release pull in the boot?
I have a MK 3.5 NC
Thanks in anticipation.
The parts are not silly money and they don’t look too difficult to replace.
The cable PULLS the latch and should be accessible from inside the boot
Short term , it’s going to be a lot easier to create a pull in the boot.
The challenge is access, there’s a lot of plastics etc. to “disconnect” , and I can’t imagine that the cable hasn’t been secured along its length.
(The workshop manual would have you believe that, after disconnecting the negative terminal, you should … Remove the rear seats. Large Pinch of Salt !)
I’ve only ever seen advice on how to unlock the flap on a ND, which is electronic. But that involves removing the boot trim and pushing a lever, so i’m guessing this will be similar.
My only worry is breaking the plastic pins holding the trim. I think i’ll have to warm them up first somehow. Any advice?
So, i’ve got to the fuel flap release lever and managed to open the flap, thank god!
You have to remove the front and part of the rear trim to get to a couple of hidden poppers before you can remove the side trim. For anyone who doesn’t know, you have to prise up the centre section of the poppers to remove them.
Just as a side issue are the poppers the same as used on the wheel arch trim?
Sometimes. Wheel arch trims also have a similar type with a cross-head slot for jacking out the centre plunger.
If the relaxed fingers have spread too far apart for a plug to go back into where it came from, drop the offending plug into a cup of recently boiled water for a minute or so, and it will revert to almost its original form. Even plastic has some memory.
Squeeze the tips together while it cools as a final persuasion, and no more problem.
It looks like the yellow part has come out of its holder, is that why the release isn’t working rather than due to a broken cable.
They are stronger poppers on the arch liners, you can see the difference if you removed one from the boot liners for comparison.
That was it, thank you so much!
Now i look at the photo again, it was pretty obvious. But when you have your head in the boot it’s a lot darker and i was using my hand to feel for the lever.
It was so easy to just pop it back in!
It happened once. If it happens again maybe try and get some lube into the cable?
From my long experience with this type of cable in bikes/motorbikes, they do need a bit of maintainance.
I sprayed WD40 on the end of the cable and the latch mechanism. So hopefully I won’t get any more trouble.
I just have to get round to putting the trim back. That was the hardest bit!
Before you stick all the trim back - I would look at another lubricant on the cable.
WD40 is not a lubricant - it is just Water Dispersant - formula 40.
Some spray lithium grease is the best sort of cable lube.
Laborious, but if you have the time, prop the cable end pointing at the sky and get some proper oil in there, drip by drip. It will, if you are patient lubricate the whole cable.
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