I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __
As a newby to car connections I’ve been stunned by this connector. Mostly it’s two opposing things that need to be pressed together and ‘Hey Ho. Or it’s one tab that needs to be be depressed. This needed three!
I wonder how they do it at Mazda officially ? This actually needs three actions. On two sides you need bend out two progs ( I used cocktail sticks) Then there is a tab at the back of the connector that needs pressing. At the forth corner is a depression you can fit a screwdriver in to give a bit of lift.
If you damage a connector it can cause all sorts of grief you couldn’t have imagined. So I take a very careful approach.
I’ve taken an age to sus out this connector. It has three actions needed before it can be removed. It also has a small nylon/plastic cross section in the middle of the connector that adds to the resistance you feel when separating .
Hope this helps. I couldn’t find any info about this. Maybe I don’t search too well.
I’ll try. It’s pretty cramped in there.
I’m amazed I couldn’t find any posts about this. You need to get three locks free at the same time and, even then it takes a bit of force before the connection breaks. I’d already sprayed it with silicone which usually does the trick. It broke away and I thought I might have damaged it, but it was fine.
I wasted an afternoon on this just because if you break a connector your into a lot of grief repairing it.
Thanks for the link Max. Mines going to have to be changed as the earth pin has fractured; looks like it’s been over-heating. His videos are great as he has had pretty much the whole car apart. And at the roadside too!
The first one shows the front and side view. The front is pointing away from you in the car. It has a tab with three bars at the front this is easy to depress. At both sides are a connection need to get a picks to push out enough to clear the lock pins on the pump housing.
The second pic shows the top of the plug hinged back to allow access to the wires. To release it you need the pic again.
The missing earth tab is probably in the connector so that could be fun!
Sod’s Law means I’d just filled up before this ‘Crank, no start’ Fortunately I’ve a proper Jerry can that I knew would come in useful when purchased for a fiver thirty years ago
Wish me luck. Every post/video about removing the eight M4 screws is all about how many they lost to get the pump out. They use a screwdriver rather than something more reliable like torx. Saved a little yen at the time no doubt.
I got it wrong. To remove the connector it needs just depressing the tab at the front and using a depression at the rear for leverage with a screwdriver or somesuch .All the tabs I spent time over are just a distraction- they hold a cap in place that traps the wires to go 90 degrees to the pins they serve.
Hope these pics help make it clear…
Just as a final comment on this quirky connector… it really took some force to move it. Obviously it’s rarely moved so there is that. But also it not only has the usual of male to female friction at the perimeter, it also has a cross section at its center that adds a lot more frictional area to overcome.
So, press the tab at the front, and give a good heave with a screwdriver at the rear. You’re not going to break anything. Save yourself the three hours I worried over this
