Genuine filters or not?

 Hi all, I’m preparing do a home service on my Mk1 1.8 and was interested to hear fellow owner’s views on whether or not to use genuine Mazda filters or aftermarket ones? and perhaps to extend the debate to genuine V aftermarket parts on the whole for those who have fitted them. Unlike other manufacturers the difference in price between aftermarket & genuine parts doesn’t seem to be too vast.    

There have been threads on here warning about none original or poor copies of steering,suspension and brake parts, some are dangerous. I’ve seen accurate measurements on air filters showing  how some are inefficient at stopping dirt etc , I’m sure it’s the same for other copy filters for oil and fuel.

 I only buy original or well known makes.

 I used air filter from Autolink and oil filter from local factors.     As I plan to change these yearly I do not think it would make a lot of differance.

 The oil filter was Fram

 I have used Fram filters for years and found them to be excellent.

  Regards  Geoff Peace.

Genuine air and oil filters for my 1.8 mk1 were so cheap from the forum sponsor I saw little reason to chance using aftermarket ones. working for a manufacturer of vehicles I have seen some shocking examples of aftermarket filters.

I have also had bad experiences with aftermarket ball joints and track rod ends on the MK1 that were ‘manufactured to OEM or higher spec’ when the time comes to replace components on the mk3 I will try to stick with OEM.

I find some of the cheapie air filters (red ones with black edge seal) are pretty poor quality and often dont fit properly, the seal is too hard and of they all too often end up deformed and pretty useless, for customer cars (unless they are running induction kits or performance replacement panel filters such as K&N or Pipercross etc) I always use genuine Mazda items, same for oil filters its often a case of penny wise, pound foolishWink

Here`s my latest (today) addition, an adapted Mk2 K&N Typhoon on my Eunos V-Spec II, hose work is just temporary and work in progress…

Dr. EunosGeek

 Personal choice but I always fit genuine oil filters. The price difference over a pattern part is minimal anyway.

 Thanks to all for the quick response - I’ve placed an order for genuine oil/air filters and will most probably go for Mazda parts when I do the cambelt & water pump in the future. I’ve experienced a real mixture of quality when buying aftermarket parts for previous cars (mainly old Triumphs’ and 80’s BMWs’), and people’s experience here seems to be broadly similar.

I went for an aftermarket water pump - unlike the Mazda part the area under the bolt heads wasn’t spot faced - this leads to unpredictable bolt preloads. I’ve supervised durability testing on non-spotfaced engine components and have seen the joints fail, so I was unhappy fitting the aftermarket part. Had I not had to get the car back on the track so quickly I’d have sent it back and ordered OEM parts.

If they are saving money on functional machining it’s a safe bet they are also saving money on seals and bearings too.

 I read somewhere (probably on this forum) that the genuine Mazda waterpump doesn’t come with paper gaskets like the aftermarket ones do but instead recommended assembly is with a skim of liquid gasket as the machine tolerances are much more accurate on the genuine part.

Mazda water pumps have metal gaskets. I’d not fit anything other than a genuine water pump if I could help it after 2 bad experiences with fitting non genuine ones. They are just not made as well.

Mmmmm, water pumps, today I fitted a Blueprint brand, I hasten to add it was customer-supplied, to a 1.8 Eunos Roadster, the one that came off had a metal gasket, the Blueprint item came with, for want of a better word, paper gasket for both the pump-face and pump outlet.It did seem to be pretty well made and certainly well machined but now I am really hoping it seals ok and stays good for an acceptable life for the chap…Embarassed

Interestingly with cambelts, I bought a genuine Mazda item for my own Eunos last year, when I opened the box to fit it, I was quite amused / perplexed to see it was clearly printed up as a Gates item, guess it can be slightly mis-leading when buying genuine items to find they are actually made by a mainstream supplier and then put into a Mazda box Don't know

The cambelt I fitted today was a Quinton Hazel item, same as the ball-joints I now use, they seem to be well made and have good quality assurance standards.

Dr. EunosGeek

Mazda parts numbers that end “9A” (timing belts, oil filters, air filters) are parts that are sourced via Europe rather than Japan. I believe the water pumps are Japan supplied parts. 

Gates are a worldwide tier one supplier to OEMs for timing drives, in much the same way as Brembo make brakes for OEMs, or Valeo make wiper systems (in Wales, last time I visited one of thier plants). Mazda buy in parts from companies that are experts on that set of components, all OEMs do it. The Gates belt will have been validated by Mazda’s durability testing, another aftermarket supplied belt won’t.

Now you know Gates are the OEM supplier there is nothing stopping you buying direct from them, using their part number printed on the belt…

“I only buy original or well known makes.”

+1

 I use pattern parts from an OE quality supplier if there’s a good saving to be made as Mazda parts can be expensive and not in stock. Last wiper blades I bought from Mazda had one handed wrongly, were made by SWF not original Jap, and cost £24 pair. I did feel robbed. Last time I asked Mazda for an indicator bulb they didn’t have one in stock. Mazda really don’t help themselves or us by not supplying genuine parts themselves and having popular items in stock at dealerships. Fortunately we have some very good motor factors locally.

It’s easier if you’ve been in the parts trade but try and identify OE suppliers or parts built to OE quality. Filters for example would include the likes of Mahle, QH supply OE to some makers etc. Some items are more tightly regulated nowadays such as brake friction so go for a big name, and from an established supplier to ensure it’s genuine. Many of the names are legendary, Ferodo, Mintex, Lockheed, Girling, Borg and Beck, QH, Fram, Crossland, Wix etc but many have gone or been replaced in the market, such as Lucas where you’ll now find Bosch, or Champion where you’ll find NGK at the top. 

The real problems arise from copy parts which simply fake what they are supposed to be with no real regard to supplying an item of good usable quality. Sometimes they copy car maker branded items but they also copy parts from well known aftermarket suppliers, so stick to the proper supply chain. A better, long established motor factor will carry good parts and not get involved in parts they cannot trace or guarantee. Around here we have Transco/Davmac, Sutton Auto Factors, GSF and Eurocarparts. In the old days we had Partco, AP Autela, Replacement Services, AE Edmunds Walker, Brown Brothers etc. Most of those were nationals, not sure which are still around, so do a web or Yellow Pages search.