My model of MX-5 is: NC2 2010 2.0 sport, BBR Super 200 & MeisterR Zeta CRDs
I’m based near: Hitchin
I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: Geometry settings
Hi there,
I got a set of MeisterR Zeta CRD coilovers fitted and set up by Wheels in Motion last year. However, they are no longer trading or accepting new forum members, as far as I can tell.
I’d like to raise the ride height of my NC2, they set it up as a ‘fast road’ setup and I just have a bit too much trouble with speed bumps unfortunately.
Does anyone know what geometry settings should be used with these coilovers for ‘fast road’ use? I obviously want to check the settings after raising the ride height to the max. I’ve taken the following from their forum, but thought it was worth asking here, and whether changing the ride height might affect any other settings (presumably it can be done without affecting the coil pre-load or anything like that?).
What is ride height set to currently? And what are you planning to raise it to? You mention ‘max’ above, so do you mean the highest level the CRDs will run at?
That just seems like overkill to me, as you’ll then not getting as much benefit from the setup. Surely the sweet spot here is lower than standard, but high enough to rise above the speed bumps that are giving you trouble?
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I want to move to the highest the Zeta CRD will go to, which I understand is still 10-15mm lower than standard. With the current state of the roads and increasing prevalence of speed bumps, minimising the risk of grounding out is my main priority. I replaced the suspension primarily because I had a broken shock, and thought I might as well get an upgrade and something adjustable, to give more options on how I could use the car in future…
I see. Do you have measurements from your car before the Meisters went on? For wheel centre to arch gap? Then you can compare it to the current measurement and raise accordingly.
Going for ‘10-15mm lower than standard’ is a bit vague to be honest, as it’s best to base it on your actual car. So I’d get that sorted, to a ride height you’re happy with. And then get the alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.
If it’s helpful for other comparison, I’m at 340F/335R and don’t any issues with speedbumps.
However, the coilover soft/hard adjustment will also come into play here. As you may find that with a softer setting (full soft for example) that you may be more likely to have contact, due to a lack of body control as the dampener is responding essentially more slowly, to the undulation/speedbump etc.
Not on rough roads but I do have to take it easy over sleeping police men.
As for the flat topped pyramidal bumps, it’s one wheel on, one wheel off to clear them.
Around my own locale, I have a mental note of which routes to avoid getting from A to B.
Stick to the ambulance routes
“As for the flat topped pyramidal bumps, it’s one wheel on, one wheel off to clear them”
We have a series of 6 down a route I take, I go between them, basically down the middle of the road or I’ll scrape. It’s a quiet village so I can manage it.
Those measurements will come in dead handy for me soon as the way your car sits will do me .
Have you looked at tein edfc if you can pick one up for a decent price? I had it and absolutely loved it, see a nice bit of new motorway and press the preset, full hard on the damping in seconds
Thanks for all the contributions, just a quick update.
I took the car to Autoremedy near Flitwick, Jason there was very helpful & we decided to go 350 front & rear, to allow me to run softer settings from time to time.
I’ve driven it home and tucked it up for winter, first impressions are that I will definitely no longer have any issues with grounding out. Even sitting still in the car I can tell it’s higher off the ground. The handing did feel slightly less sharp, but still sharper than standard and sharp enough for my purposes.
I’ll share the geometry settings we went with when I get the email receipt etc.
.
