Hi all. The car was parked on a slight grassy incline, handbrake on and started to slightly roll forward. I was able to reach in and pull the handbrake one more notch or so which stopped it. But it’s at its limit and I’m not convinced it’s safe. I believe this can be adjusted at the calliper but also in the cabin near the lever. Obviously, adjusting near the lever in the cabin seems the easier option but is it the best way? When would you do one rather than the other, if you know what I mean?
I’ve owned two NC’s, both have had their handbrakes more less engaged fully on the last notch. I suppose you can give the adjuster a twiddle at the lever, see how it holds then. They are supposed to be self adjusting.
Worth checking the handbrake operation on both sides.
If they have the same sort of issues as the MK1 may be a cable issue where the inner has rusted and is not retracting sufficiently. Our Eunos had this issue and I imagine a lot of people would have bought a caliper first, as I nearly did.
Hope I am not teaching my Grandma how to suck eggs …but always leave your car in a low gear (1st or reverse) as well, even if your handbrake is working well. Handbrakes can, and, have been known to fail.
MK 2.5 NB [2005] 46,000 [Less than 500 miles per year over past few years]
My mechanic has had to tighten the handbrake every 2 years but at her Full Service in March he said the Cable needs replacing soon…Don’t Quote Me re ‘Cable’ but just that I’d have to replace something rather than him tightening it [All the Tech Language From Me …LOL]
Handbrake operates on the calipers on the NC (unlike all of my German cars that have shoes / drums within the rear disc ) and the correct adjustment is set by winding the pistons in / out. Very simply to do.
Well sort of on the NC. Unlike the NA/NB handbrake which needs manual adjustment at the caliper after doing brake work, the NC handbrake is self adjusting.
You should also turn your wheels into the kerb, I always leave my car in gear and park with the wheels turned to the kerb, always have done.
What I notice now with the number of hire cars I’ve had for work and with the company car I have just now is that they all need you to put the clutch down before the engine will start, it’s as though the manufacturers are keen for you to leave them in gear as well!
No NC model requires the clutch pedal down beforehand to start the car.
My daily driver does though, whether it having stop/start is a factor I wouldn’t know. It’s been the first car I’ve owned to have this feature. It confuses me sometimes, if I’ve accidentally stalled the car pressing down the clutch activates the starter to start the engine again. I still can’t get used to that in 8 years ownership.
I was told to do this by my driving instructor and it is just a natural thing to do now, no matter what car I get into to drive.
My daily also has to have the clutch depressed prior to starting, otherwise there are annoying bells, whistles and the inevitable dashboard light show…!
Yep agree, my dad when teaching me to drive said always depress the clutch beforehand and its stuck with me.
Now confusing even more, I’ve got my daughter’s car with me ATM, it’s got a foot operated handbrake, foot lever to apply, hand lever to release. Interesting when on an incline, out of gear because you need your left foot to apply the brake whilst holding the car with the foot brake with you right foot.
Taught to Drive By Police [Sargent Who’d Come Second in a Driver of the Year Competition]
It Was Considered Good Practice to Depress the Clutch Before Starting the Engine Simultaneously Waggling the Gear Stick to Check It’s In Neutral [In case previous driver had left it in gear] to Prevent Vehicle Jumping Forward & Stalling [Which is Embarrassing If Nothing Else]
Only Leave It in Gear [1st or Reverse] If on an Incline to Assist the Handbrake in Case It Slips and Wheels in Direction of Curb as Mentioned
I Leave My NB in Hill Mode on the Flat If I Think Her Handbrake is Not Engaging Sufficiently
Memories of hiring a “nice new” Megane in France with its lethal brakes. NEVER, EVER again. Second worst car I’ve driven in almost a million miles.
I never thought I would need heel and toe on a modern manual gearbox car doing a hill start at the lights, plus a hand on the switch to release the unpredictably locked-on automatic parking brake adding to the complication.
"Genuine Mazda replacement clutch switch. As you know, in order to start a Mk3 you have to put your foot on the clutch first. Located just above the pedal, this is the little switch that controls that.
I’ve had a couple of cars with an electronic parking brake. It applied automatically when you stopped, but then automatically released as you drove off again.
The motto of the story is to never believe absolutely any thing you hear people say or write. The only truth for you is what you have experienced and even then it can be a bit iffy!
