All have the same description “Starter relay circuit malfunction” and warning: “flashing push button start indicator light (amber)” but only one has a fail-safe, P0615:12:
Inhibits switching the ignition ON (engine off or on).
Inhibits the engine start.
I think the first step is to determine if the Starter Relay is the culprit, this video gives a suggestion for that:
So about 6 months ago I had a new windscreen fitted because I had a gigantic crack in it.
That windscreen replacement allowed water to drip slowly into that C-016 connector (I think), related to the PCM and Start/stop system, which has corroded it.
This isn’t a poor replacement windscreen fitting, but an actual recall/problem that Mazda are aware of apparently.
Be careful out there and check for corroded connectors.
Shout out to @Roadster_Robbie for being an absolute legend and spot on.
Been popping in here from time to time and have to say I admire your patience and the way fellow owners have stepped in to help you out, wish I could be of more than moral support but such is life. Hope your car makes a full, speedy and above all lasting recovery.
@Art_Tidesco appreciate you popping in and leaving a message. It certainly is testing my patience, but the car has been great for the best part of 4 years and has been (mechanically) bulletproof, so I can’t fault it.
Whilst the fault continues to elude both the mechanics and I, have to say, I’m learning a great deal about my car and learning how useful breakers yards can be for parts!
it isn’t clear, to me, if the issue is the car wont turn over (likely electrical) or turns over but wont start (mechanical / fuel).
It sounds like both of those have been investigated but if clearing the codes fixes it, but the error and code returns, does that point to that component?
I soent a winter trying to work out what was wrong with my Ducati 999.
It turned out to be the fuel pump cable that had fractured inside the insulation, so it looked intact but only worked intermittently.
So do check your cables for continuity.
interesting reading, glad i stopped at the 2.5 model ownership. both mk1’s i have had had wiring issues, thankfully mild compared to on here. one with a new battery blew the 80 amp fuse second time i tried to start it after fitting this new battery a Yuasa 44AMP, a faulty new battery, and still havent found the parasitic drain flats after 4 days,just remove the pos lead when i park it ,other with a dash issue was a broken wire took days to trace it and run a seperate wire outside the loom… in some of the cases i read on the issues here i would be sorely tempted to allow them catch alight and claim the insurance. the modern vehicle with so much totally unnecessary electronics running cambus through an ECU often sited in totally the wrong place listening to conversations amongst modern auto tek guys that i’m in touch with they now know that the electronics are more important for all the wrong reasons and the normal engine gearbox brakes DMflywheels clutch while today severelytightly packaged are still quite reliable in good hands ownership wise…and most recovery guys that i know say most of their daily recovery work is on modern stuff with electronic issues…so the price of all the extra ‘‘goodies’’ in a neat and loved by many sports car is headaches when they go awry…w