Have we got another update on this?
I am assuming from the lack of posts everything is going well 
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Evening @ian.prossor, yes, can confirm, all working so far, 500(ish) miles in and numerous power cycles. 
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I need to take a step back here - and ask a stupid question. I’ve been recharging the battery in situ with my CTEK MXS 5.0 charger. I’ve been connecting the charger crocodile clamps directly to the negative and positive poles of the battery itself.
I’m aware of the fact that when using this charger on my Skoda Octavia, the negative charger lead needs to be connected to a metal tab in the engine bay - not to the negative battery terminal itself.
Re-reading the CTEK manual, I find that it tells me to “Connect the black clamp to the vehicle chassis remote remote from the fuel pipe and the battery” - and this is “For batteries mounted inside a vehicle” - which is exactly my situation.
On the other hand, the line drawing right alongside these written instructions show the charger clamps - both of them - connected direct to the battery terminals. I’d class this as “confusing” …
So my question is: am I stupid? Have I been misusing my CTEK charger all along, by connecting both clamps direct to the battery terminals?? Am I not actually recharging my battery at all, by doing this? And what IS the correct way to connect the CTEK charger, since the instructions appear to be self-contradictory?
Unfortunately I can’t help with this, I removed the battery completely from the car and charged in the house.
Sorry
In this order: Red croc clip on positive battery point (red on pic), black croc clip on the ‘nut’, shown in blue as black pen wouldn’t show on the pic. Plug the ctek in.
When charged (or you’ve got to stop it for whatever reason. like it starts to rain etc) the reverse order: Unplug cteck, black clip off, red clip off
Other threads about this. On my MY23 ND (and some others) charging with a CTEK MSX 5.0 charger (as detailed below) confuses the car’s Battery Management System (BMS) which then thinks the battery has low charge state anyway and refuses to activate stop/start at least. Common wisdom is that driving for a while (perhaps 100’s of miles) will clear it or, as worked for me, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery accelerates the ‘fix’. I asked CTEK about this and all they would say, not very helpfully IMHO, is:
"A MXS 5.0 will charge your battery to 100% SOC if you connect the clamps correctly.
Please connect the to the positions described in the instruction manual for the car so
the BMS can record the charging. If you changed the battery please reset the BMS
with Mazda or universal service tool."
So you should connect the CTEK to +ve and chassis (not -ve battery terminal) so the ‘BMS can record the charging’. Connecting direct to the battery terminals will still charge the battery. It’s all very inconclusive as to the correct/best way to do this (battery connected to car or not, and where to connect the charger if it is) as the manual is silent on this and you can get the issue I an other have had.
I connect the negative to a point on the engine that will be earthed, on my NC that was the engine loop/lift point on the engine. On my daily driver there is a proper earthing stud on the bulkhead. The positive obviously to the battery + post.
I think mostly now this method of connecting up a battery charger eliminates the possibility of creating a spark across the two battery terminals, well my theory anyway.
ND1 doesnt have BMS