It took me ages to search for information and advice on what size wheels would fit on my mk2.5 Nevada. So I thought I would share my findings to save someone else the hassle.
I have her lowered 30 mm on Eibach sports springs. The standard Nevada wheels are 6.5J 16 ET40 with 205/45 R16 toyo tires, they fitted as there where, but also fitted without rubbing on 25 mm hubcentric spacers from IL Motorsport and are legal as they are (tires are under the arch, not sticking out). So what does this mean for the offset and width combo that I can fit to my five without any arch work? here goes…
First of all need to convert J sizes to mm as ET is in millimetres and I know that I can go 25 mm further out on the outside of the wheels. So as 1 inch = 25.4 mm then the follow are correct:
6.5j = 165.10 mm wide (current size)
7j = 177.80 mm wide (extra 12.70 mm width, an extra 6.35 mm each side)
7.5j = 190.50 mm wide (extra 25.40 mm width, an extra 12.70 mm each side)
8j = 215.90 mm wide (extra 38.10 mm width, an extra 19.05 mm each side)
But on top you have to consider the different offsets you can get. Here are my calculations below
7J ET20 should fit
6.35 mm added on each side
Inside 20 – 6.35 = 13.65 mm, outside 20 + 6.35 = 26.35 mm (would just about be legal with the tire staying under the arch, and would not rub)
7.5J ET20 would need arch work
12.7 mm added on each side
Inside 20 – 12.7 = 7.3 mm, outside 20 + 12.7 = 32.7 mm (this would be too far out and arch work would be required)
7.5J ET25 should fit
12.7 mm added on each side
Inside 15 – 12.7 = -2.3 mm, outside 15 + 12.7 = 27.7 mm (would just about be legal with the tire staying under the arch, and would not rub)
7.5J ET28 = best use of space and should fit perfectly
12.7 mm added on each side
Inside 12 – 12.7 = -0.7 mm, outside 12 + 12.7 = 24.7 mm (would be the most perfect fit)
7.5J ET30 should fit
12.7 mm added on each side
Inside 10 – 12.7 = -2.7 mm, outside 10 + 12.7 = 22.7 mm (would be perfect)
8J ET20 would need arch work
19.05 mm added on each side
Inside 20 – 19.05 = -0.95 mm, outside 20 + 19.05 = 39.5 mm (this would be too far out and arch work would be required)
Now all I need to do is find some 7.5j x 16 x ET25 to ET30 that I like the look of. I will possibly go for some Rota’s. Of course I have assumed I am staying with the same tire size and not putting on any stretch (as I want as much rubber on the road as possible).
Please note the above is based on staying with 205/45 R16 tyres as standard, so please consider tyre sizes.
Oh and if you are unsure you can always use these great online resources that are a great help.
Measure the diameter of the disk is it approx 255mm or 270mm. On the larger diameter the disk diameter is larger.
If it is the higher number then you many have clearence problems on the inside of any wheel you purchase with the disk at the area of the wheel where the horizontal cylindrical surface and the verticle surface have a curve that joins the two areas.
It’s on big brakes like most mk2.5s, I agree with what you arr saying, but I’m on 16 inch wheels that would be over 400 mm, on the outside of the wheel. So that’s a lot of clearance.
I would agree with you if I was going 15 inch or less. But I will only be going an inch wider so there will be loads of clearance.
Not much use really. I understand that increasing un-sprung weight will have a negative impact, but a good set of alloys should weight less that my current wheels and spacers. If the weight is the same or lees there will be no negative impact on fuel consumption as I will by staying with 16 inch wheels, I will just be going a little wider so I have more rubber on the road and more grip in the corners.
So I will not be changing the diameter, I will attempt to lower the weight of wheels + tires, the width will add more rubber on the road, so more grip, and the low ET will bring the wheels out wider to fill the arches. I am not going to put 17inch wheels on with low profile tires, and even if I did the chances are the wheels and tire combo would be about the same weight on most wheels. SO no change to the un-sprung weight, but you would get less give in the side walls creating a harsh ride. The wheel and tire calculator in the first post gives good guidance on the possible combinations and impact on the speedo reading and wheel and tire weights.
So I am looking at the best possible balance of performance and style, having a wider wheel track (extra 25mm each side) has already improved handling in the corners.
So I assume you are on 16 x 6.5j x ET40 currently, if that’s correct then the calculation is
6’5 j to 7j = 177.80 mm wide (extra 12.70 mm width, an extra 6.35 mm each side)
ET 40 to ET 30 is extra 10 mm on the outside edge and 10mm less on the inside edge
The wheel will be 16.35 mm (10mm plus 6.35mm) further out on the outside edge
The wheels inside edge will be further out by 3.65mm (6.35mm - 10 mm) so you will have extra clearance on the inside edge
As I know my mk2.5 works with 30mm lowering springs (the same ones you are getting) and 25 mm spacers with the original 16, 6.5j ET40 wheels, you will have loads of clearance on that wheel choice, but make sure you get the right size tires, you should not need any stretch, in fact you should stay with the same 205/45 r16’s you should have on at the moment.
I hope this helps.
P.S. please note this is just based on by experience, I am not an expert but I did a lot of research.
Thank you so much, this has been invaluable as I did get to the point of giving up considering new wheels. I think I’ll stick with 16" as the go to diameter as I’m guessing plus sizing up to 17" would make the ride even harsher.
Thanks once again ???
Glad I can be of assistance. I would say stay with 16’s, 17’s can look really nice on a mk3, but on a mk2 the side wall would be too short on 17’s and make the ride unbearable.