Hi C,
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I’d heard that about going in from below, but figured it would be better than letting the car fill up with water! any way although inserted from the bottom finished up withdrawing that way too, so hopefully if the flaps did invert it should have pulled them back. importantly the water now drains out.
So where exactly in relation to that square cutout is the actual hole ?
If it’s down where the blue pointer is pointing then no wonder I haven’t found it…
I was expecting it to be directly under that square aperture I mean why wouldn’t it be ??
Mazda have made this what should be a simple job into an absolute pain. I’ve had a few convertibles over the years and all were 5 minute jobs to do yet this one is a nightmare.
Has anyone any idea how to get that damn tray out to expose the hole cos I think I’m looking in the wrong place altogether. Though I have tried in that area … In fact I’ve tried in every area…
Before you go much further arsing around with this you need to check if they’re actually blocked. Pour some water around the base of the hood and see if it comes out under the car first.
Regardless of anything else in the World ever you need to do the scuttle grommets. They break down in every single car and let water in, so it’s quite stupid to not do them.
One side runs but slowly. The drivers side is only dripping.
I have water in the boot…
The car is normally kept under a carport. It was parked out in the rain for one night after which the windows steamed up badly indicating water or moisture within the cabin.
Even if both sides were allowing water past I’m told it’s essential maintenance to clear the tubes anyway. Obviously the previous owner didn’t or couldn’t be bothered. Or more likely couldn’t do it either.
I assure you if the drains flowed water I wouldn’t have spent 5 hours in the bitter cold yesterday 
Well you never mentioned that little gem of info anywhere in the thread!
As said back there, it’s easier in a way and gives much more reliable results to tackle it from underneath. The actual blockage is more often than not only 2 - 3" back up from the bottom against the rubber flap.
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Yes the actual hole is about where the blue arrow is. If going in through the square hole push diagonally towards the gear lever, either 10 o’clock or 2 o’clock depending which side.
A strong wet-vac applied to each drain outlet underneath works well, provided the blockage has not dried out to a crust.
For best suction it helps to use one’s hand to maximise the seal.
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Bear with me, I’ll try and get a picture of said drain hole, hopefully it’ll give you an idea where to aim for.
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Said the actress to the Bishop.
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Wicked minds at work again.
As mentioned above on the picture with the blue arrow pointing the way in.
I managed to find the drain hole just there. If you ease the plastic open just there, with a torch and your head in there (not much room) you can see said hole.
My pokey thing down there in the picture below, I used what resembles a metal flexi curtain wire…
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For a sure way to find the hole get a cheap endoscope. The image below was taken through the square hole using a Depstech usb endoscope on my phone. It is then easy to see the trombone brush go down the drain tube.
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Whether you go in through the red square hole or the blue arrowed slot you are aiming for the hole about where the white X is marked.
I have an endoscope and with the aid of a torch just about managed to see the hole but even with the light on the end of the scope it’s still extremely hard to see…
Anyway after another few goes I managed to clear both sides. The passenger side was the least agg compared to the drivers side which was just a right pain…
Massive sincere thanks to all who have offered some great advice…
My plan with this car was to keep it one more year then trade or sell and buy an ND… But I struggle with so many silly things with Mazda so I will be returning to Audi for my top down car. I’ve had a few nice Audis and never had a single issue. This is not a knee ■■■■ reaction I’ve been thinking about it for a while…
Thanks again guys appreciated
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And keep the brush almost vertical! I find a cardboard box helps to keep the roof half open, which can be part of the battle. I’ve attached a write-up I picked up online a few years back (If attaching docs works of course!). Well I would have done but I can’t upload a PDF (which is a bit daft)
To test if clear, I use a bike drinking water bottle to squirt some water into the hole used for clearing the drain, or through the grill next to it.
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You may like to look at my post here as I havent seen anyone suggest this but if it happened on mine it could on others.
Hi,
One side of the soft top drains was full of water, so I cleaned it.
I read that there is a ‘noise flap’ in the tube, so I don’t use metal, only plastic tubing.
I found the tube outlet under the car, and could catch my nail on the flap to pull it back enough to push the 8mm plastic tube upward, and it flushed out.
Cheers, Camerart.