I’m wondering in particular how it installs on an NC as the connections for the breather lines aren’t the same as the NA’s and NB’s and it doesn’t look to me like those lines are the right diameter to fit over the outlet at the valve cover, or the inlet on the air intake, just after the air filter/MAF.
Also just to clarify, I don’t need to get to the PCV valve do I? Am I correct in thinking that this is routed from the outlet on the valve cover, into the can, and then out to the air intake as mentioned above?
I can’t answer your question, but some salient points:
The engine has two vents, one on the cam cover which has no valve and one behind the intake manifold which does. The latter has to have vac applied to it otherwise it won’t work.
The crankcase breather is a heck of a long job to get to I can assure you of that.
Those catchcans are available for a fraction of the price on Ebay, but maybe IL have altered theirs a bit to make it bespoke and supply some specific instructions to make it work.
Venting off the top one elsewhere other than the intake as it is is a complete waste of time unless you’ve got something wrong with your engine.
My reasoning (and that of everything I’ve read and watched) is that it will catch the oil residue that would otherwise go through the intake, resulting in a cleaner engine which can only be a good thing?
I think what Duratech is getting at is it’s pointless just connecting the easy to access top (cam cover) breather hose to a catch can if you don’t also do the lower (crankcase) breather at the same time - in fact if anything the crankcase breather is the more important of the two.
One of the common reasons for fitting a catch tank to direct injection engines such as these is to stop oil vapour (from the crankcase mainly) causing a buildup of carbon on the back of the inlet valves, as there’s no fuel injection in the inlet tract to wash it off.
These engines are port injected, not DI.
There are already 2 oil/fume separators fitted to your engine and they work pretty well, you can check the efficiency of the top one quite easily by pulling the intake hose off and looking for traces of oil where they join. Usually there is the sign that there may have been a little dribble of something once upon a time. If it’s got loads of oil splashing around in there then there is something badly wrong.
The crankcase breather is another thing entirely, but as said it’s a pig to get to and needs vac applying for it to work.
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I think EGR is probably more to blame than crankcase fumes, or maybe a lovely mix of the two lol.