In my case (as per previous thread), 12V on passenger side, 0.5V on driver’s side. Wire enters loom behind panel behind seats; I haven’t followed it further. Light switches on when passenger door opens, or I flick the switch, so there’s 12V up there too. Issue is between light and door!
So yes, it does sound like a poor connection or broken wire.
If it were me, my next step would be to take a look at a wiring diagram to look at where the wire comes from and try running a parallel wire between the two points to bypass the original and see if it works then
Does the Door Open Indicator operate with either door opened separately? If so, then both door switches and their wires to the instrument cluster are OK.
The tone (“buzzer”) from the cluster should sound IF the lights are on.
There are voltage differences between these two door switches, if the other door is open and its switch is closed (ie grounded) The wire colours are;
Blue/Black goes to Cluster 2E, and is driver’s door
Black/Blue goes to Cluster 2C, and is passenger door.
Some voltages from a working system
Drivers door shut, volts across passenger door switch 12.4V
Passenger door shut, volts across drivers door switch 12.4V
Drivers door open, volts across passenger door switch 1.05V (a diode drop to drivers door earth)
Passenger door open, volts across drivers door switch 4.7V (from lock system, diode keeps away passenger switch earth)
I assume the security light is doing its usual blink? If so then the microcomputer in the cluster is probably OK. This also sounds the tone, and there is only a diode drop between two 12V lines to the micro and the buzzer.
The Black/Blue 2C line goes to the Interior Lights switch as one of the three options, and to the Locking Control 4Q
The Blue/Black 2E line with the 4.7V also goes off to the Locking Control 4T.
You have 0.5V on the 2E line, a permanent low suggesting a problem, but it depends on the questions I asked at the top of this post.
If the door open only works for one and no tone for either, then the problem might well be with the Cluster.
If the door open indicator is working correctly this suggests there is most likely a problem with the Locking Control (water ingress?), and less likely a problem with the Cluster micro.
This could be tricky without proper diagnostics!
Quite!
I did just notice that it looks like @Langleyparkmackem and I have the exact same model, down to the colour.
We’re not accidentally sharing the same car are we? 
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An auto electrician once told me that one of the most common problems they come across is door sill trims being screwed down and the screws penetrating wires running under the sill.
Is this a possibility??
I checked that. Driver’s side wiring goes behind bulkhead panel and into route through centre console, so far as I can see.
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Just a short update (in the other thread)…
Finally got a multi meter and prodded the wire with the red bit and put the black bit on the door catch and got a reading of 4.5 (I am not electrically gifted so hope you know what I mean).
So it looks like there is power to the switch, however, like I have said before when I change the switch with the passenger one it still does not work.
I am at a loss as to what is actually wrong with it!
What should I check next or can anyone point me in the right direction??
I expect you’ve checked the bulb, but if not I would take it out. Mine was coming on erratically and when removed one of the metal ends dropped off the glass as it had corroded inside.
Yes bulb is fine, it works from the passenger side just not drivers
Do the same test on the passenger side. 4.5 sounds low unless its controlled by the pcm. I would expect 12v at the switch
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Had the multi meter out again tonight. Driver’s side which is the problem side I get 4.5 or so at the switch.
I checked the passenger side and it’s about 12.
I then took the bulb out and opened driver’s door. Nothing at the light fitting. Tried passenger side and again about 12.
So does this suggest a broken wire somewhere or do I have other issues
Let’s start from the beginning here…
With the bulb in and the switch on the map light in the door position, what voltage do you get on each of the wires going to each door pin switch with both the door pin switches removed from the body?
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4.5 from the driver’s door and 12 from passenger door
OK, can you repeat that check but with the map light switch in the off position.
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No bother will do that when I come in from work
Also, does the door ajar light on the instrument cluster work for the drivers and passenger door? And can you post or PM me your VIN please?
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Do you have an aftermarket alarm system installed? Just to exclude another possibility.
I don’t have a door ajar light on the dash, well one isn’t illuminated.
I don’t know if it is linked but probably is, the light round the ignition barrel is also off.
What’s your thoughts?
What’s your VIN?