Jacking a Mazda 3 - quite a surprise!

The current generation has torsion beam rear suspension, which is both cheaper and gives a larger boot, even though it’s not an ideal setup.

I was somewhat surprised today when jacking the front of the car for a wheel swap, when the rear wheel on the same side came off the ground even more than the front one did. There’s really not much rebound movement in that rear suspension.

It’s not ideal to change a wheel when the car is only resting on one side and a trolley jack, but nothing slipped.

I am reliably informed that the CX-30 does the same thing. It is a 3 in drag, of course.

It is fairly common for a FWD car to have low droop on the rear.
My Leon does the same - jack it as if removing a front wheel and both wheels on that side come off the floor.
Very handy if you are in the habbit of swapping front and rear wheels for even tyre wear.

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My NC is the same, jack on the front side jacking point and the rear that side is off the ground too. I put an additional jack on the rear to steady the car, it’s on Meister’s.

My NC only lifts the wheel being jacked (on presumably standard suspension).

I’ve had it on all my cars. If you have uprated suspension (mainly coilovers) the droop is massively reduced so the other wheel will readily leave the ground.

One thing I noticed with the nc is the fact they have a central jacking point under the engine cradle, but unless you have the lowest and longest reach of jacks you aren’t getting to it :thinking:.

My bog standard Halfords trolley jack gets to it but I have to do the first part of the lift with an alternative short handle - I use a 10mm allen key.

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