Jacking point 2010 NC

Thanks for remembering to dig it out.

So still no definitive answer then?

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Opinions vary?

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I don’t have a jack or any stands at the moment. I am thinking of getting a scissor jack (I have seen one that can be used with a power drill) and a pair of axle stands.

Is this a reasonable route.

Can I jack my NC up next to the jacking point and then put the axle stand there?

If I later need the car to be horizontal (e.g. change diff oil), any preference for a pair of ramps or 2 more axle stands?

If you are planning on doing your own maintenance then a trolley jack is the preferred and safer method of getting the car in the air. Diff oil can actually be done (changed) by running the rear up onto a pair of ramps.
Alternatively you can jack up on the diff (trolley jack) although this method is may damage the diff mountings. Use a cushion between diff casing and jack head (thin piece of timber) to stop metal to metal slippage. Of course axle stands will be needed for support and safety on the chassis rails (rear) or at the rear of the sills before scrambling under the car.

If you are past your sell by date for getting down and dirty (like me​:grin:) and need to buy all those tools it’s best and probably cheaper to get the garage to do it.:+1:

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How dare you impugn my ability to get down and dirty - that 's my wife’s job :wink: However, I did officially qualify as an Old Person recently (I got a Pensioner’s rate on my last haircut!!!) and am cutting my work hours back and so have more time to do interesting stuff.

Yes, it is a lot of investment in tools, but I expect to keep my 25AE for some time - as I have said elsewhere it may be my last car, and I am thinking that I may do these jobs over the coming months / years.

  • Change diff oil
  • Patch underseal
  • Paint brake calipers
  • Change brake / clutch fluid
  • Change brake pads / disks
  • Replace clutch slave cylinder

Not all jobs that need doing right now, but are likely to crop up over time. If I can do them myself, it will keep me out of mischief and recoup the cost in saved garage bills.

As I am heavily invested in Ryoib One+ cordless tools, a scissor jack that can be operated by a power drill seems easier (even if it is two operations instead of one) than scrabbling about trying to find a safe jacking point that is fully under the car and could result in lifting in the wrong place by accident.

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The scissor jack is useful for changing a wheel, that’s about it, would never get the car sufficiently high enough to carry out the jobs you mention.
I’ve been using an Aldi special trolley jack for years, of course again the cars needs extra support before getting under it.

A scissor jack is at full capacity just lifting a car. A trolley jack of reasonable weight is doing the job with ease.:+1::+1:

I carry a bit of 2"x6"x6" in the well in the boot to spread the load of the scissor-jack foot on possibly iffy ground, and also guarantee to lift the car high enough.

Other “essential” stuff (inflator, kit of spare bulbs, crook-lock, triangle, mud/snow-socks, breaker bar, tool kit, owners club magnetic roundels, etc) fills the well to make a nearly flat floor.

Just a cautionary note on using rubber pucks on the sill jacking points. I lifted my wife’s Mazda 6 this way but unfortunately it was on the tarmac drive and it didn’t allow the trolley jack to creep. The nett result was the puck compressed on one side and shot off dropping the car straight onto the jack seat. Luckily there was no damage to her car but the laundry was stained !

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