I have just purchased a Hydraulic Trolley Jack.
Where is the best place to position the jack under the car to remove the rear wheels, one at a time on my MK3.5 NC.
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Chock front wheels and jack up using rear diff with either wood or rubber hockey puck to protect diff, and place on axle stands using jackpoints on the sills, about 4 inches in from rear wheels, between two bumps in pinch welds.
My method of jacking the rear up always on the diff on Mk1, Mk2 now my Mk3 but…
A reliable source says it’s wrong, you can crack the diff mounting points.
I’m taking that advice from now on.
Jacking points are shown at points near to the front and rear of the sills, the small raised pressings (drain points) in the metal seam. You’ll see these in the cut outs of the plastic sill covering, on you hands and knees job to find. I do use these points but place a suitably cut piece of timber behind the lip and jack on the timber with the trolley jack head. Alternatively use one of these pucks as described above that straddle the metal seam.
As in the manual…
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Thanks for the info above chaps, much appreciated.
Agree entirely, would never use the diff to jack up the rear, (each to their own of course).
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As usual MickAP gives sound advice.
I use the ice hockey puck method, just cut a suitable width in the puck to slot onto
the jacking points.
I use a light weight racing trolley with a substantial lifting base to put the puck on
rather than use the jack supplied with the car.
Keep Safe
Keith
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I try to but it’s only advice from this and other motor forums that I hopefully pass on with good intent.
Which reminds me, I need to get the jack out on my car, more lockdown fettling.
Interesting. I’ve used the rear diff so the sill jacking points were free for axle stands. This was in the Haynes manual, along with using front cross member to lift front. If you’ve used jacking point on sills for trolley jack, where do you then put your axle stands?
Thanks for your reply.
Difference of opinions of course and what works for some doesn’t always work for others.
I have various methods for various tasks which suits me.
I did post a reply, but amended it due to let’s say “a back handed dig at me”.
That’s fine.
So will leave it for others to answer.
I have been jacking up using trolley jack in the middle of the sil and then using 2 axle stands per side leaving it on 4 for big jobs I use rubbers on the trolley jack and axle stands to protect the sil
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Non-slip-Adapter-Protector-Accessories/dp/B07ZSXCCTY
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CRKY15B/ref=tsm_1_tp_tc
Just wanted to share , I may be doing it wrong 
Okay, thanks. If it works lifting in middle of the sill without damaging it, then that’s an alternative to the diff and keeps jacking points free for axle stands. I did see on Ebay there are hockey pucks with an offset slot for the mx5, so the trolley jack engages more on the inside of the sill.
I have the club’s technical guide for lifting the NC written in 2012 and like the Haynes manual this shows lifting with the diff. But the technical guide is no longer available to download in the members downloads. I assumed it just wasn’t uploaded when the new site launched, but now wonder if it was withdrawn as the view on using the diff has changed…
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Here we are after a little searching found my own picture on Google.
It shows mine (Mk3) jacked on the diff and the axle stands placed on the chassis rails at the rear most part. I used to use the same method on the Mk1/Mk2 re placing of the stands. If you want to jack on the sill point to say lift one side (rear) you can get the axle stand in under that rail. To then go on and lift the other side whilst one is supported on the stand, well it seemed unstable to me so I left the other rear firmly on its wheel. Picture a little blurred but it shows how I did it, I won’t now jack on the diff but it shows where the stands go.
Of course it’s entirely up to the individual, be safe above all anything else.
This link…
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The guide should still be in the downloads section, you’re probably correct in that it went missing with the forum migration. Unfortunately, I no am no longer able to edit that section at the moment.
As far as I am concerned, lifting the vehicle using a hydraulic trolley jack on the rear differential (or the cross member under it on the ND) and the centre of the front cross member as per the How To Guide is a suitable place to lift. As pointed out, this then leaves the emergency jacking points free for axle stands.
I doubt that there is anything wrong with using a trolley jack on the lifting points on the sills but what I would be mindful of is being sure that the jack is allowed to roll forward easily as its lifting pad will move in a arc as it rises putting a sideways force on the sill lip. The emergency jack as shown in the Owners Manual moves straight upwards. Also, the Owner’s Manual must assume that you only have what Mazda have supplied with (or not now) the car.
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If you are in any way stressed, jack on the suspension pivots, they are pretty obvious to find.
I totally agree with the arc of the jack it is something I was going to mention but you already have
I see so many sill lips pulled out and folded and the trolley jack arc is quite often the cause
its something the standard straight up and down jack doesn’t suffer from obviously
What I would disagree with is jacking on the diff as surely doing this your effectively lifting the car via the diff mounts , the rubber mounts are good but there not designed for that
Rear subframe with a rubber pad would be my choice .
I see UKpenfold mentioned jacking the centre sill that is something I would be highly cautious of as theres no reinforced areas there at all and it may end up with a squashed sill or worse .
According to Mazda’s workshop manual, jacking on the diff is the only way to jack the rear when using a trolley jack, this seems to be reflected in the Haynes manual, I assume Haynes have access to manufacturers information.
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Seriously thou surely you can see there is better places to jack the rear up than the rubber mounted diff
But hey if mazda and Haynes say its right it must be right yes ?
In the freedom of choice thou you or anyone else can do what they like but I can assure you having been a mechanic for over 32 yrs and counting I will not be jacking mine up that way ever or would I ever recommend anyone else too even if the manufacturer selling you the spares recommends it .
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You win some, you lose some Robbie! 
Sorry, but in my world, yes.
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