I’ve read the various previous posts which have answered and posed questions in equal measure. Can I just confirm the process for lifting the whole rear end of a NC 3.5 please ?
As far as I can tell, it’s okay to lift using the rear diff using a trolley jack and a wood block to spread the weight.  The guidance also seems to be to use the cast iron structure.Â
Ive had a look and it seems like the cast iron part of the diff on my Sport Tech is actually recessed within an inverted U shaped alloy. Is it safe to use wood across this U shape or do I really need to use something smaller to jack directly off the internal section ?
Is there anywhere better to lift from given that my head needs to be right under the jack points to find the rear drain holes for the roof ?  I’m planning to block under the wheels as axle stands will be in the way of where I think I need to be.Â
Thanks Fred. From the diagram, it looks like the jack’s cup spans the outer alloy.
I’m just aware that having had the car rust proofed, I seem to have caused more problems than the treatment was probably worth. Last thing I need is a cracked diff housing to add to the problems.
Jack on the diff using a suitable wooden block in-between diff and trolley jack head. Get as high as possible then place axle stands each side on the rear most parts of the chassis rails, then lower the car down. I place all the weight on the stands, you can leave the jack in place if you so wish. Chock  the front wheels.
I know your suggestion is the safest way to do it but I think it may restrict access to the drains.
It’s been a long time since I was under a car and in those days I had metal ramps. Being somewhat older and wiser (and short of storage for ramps) my plan was Jack it up on the diff but to place an axle stand under the jack so that if the hydraulics fail, the stand will hold the jacking arm in place.
I figure if the jacking arm fractures, the axle stand will still hold the cup and if the castors or their stub axles fail, the stand will still give me enough clearance to live long enough to change my underpants. A few wooden blocks under the wheels wouldn’t hurt either.
In reality, I think my 18 year old head is trying to rule my 60 year old body and handing the car into Paul’s care is the right thing to do. If nothing else, it’ll save a whole load of bandwidth on this server !
I should have updated this last month, but when I spoke to Paul he didn’t recommend using the diff as it could break the mountings. Instead he suggested using the points further back towards the rear bumper where various bits converge.
However, in a cautionary tale, I had to change the wheel on my wife’s brand new 6 yesterday and had a minor disaster ! I used a slotted rubber cup purchased on eBay apparently for the specific purpose of protecting the pinch weld. Although it held the car just fine as I took the wheel off and had the tyre replaced (a few hours in pretty windy conditions) the puck failed and shot out while I was putting the wheel back on again. I think the rubber was too soft so that when I raised the car slightly to get the fully inflated tyre back on, it distorted and eventually shot out of the jack cup so the car dropped about 1/2”. Doesn’t seem to have caused any damage and luckily all hands and feet were well away from the wheel at the time it happened but it made one hell of a bang.
It’s possible Paul (correctly) assessed my capabilities and being poor to dangerous and was dissuading me from getting underneath the car at home. As it turns out, he was spot on.
Looks like it’s not been added from the old site downloads section when they ported the docs to the new site.
I will try to send you a link to my copy. @richrboo
Using inside the pinch welds is a completely new one on me, and I’m not sure I could be convinced that’s its an ok area either for lifting of supporting. Neither would I use axle stands on the pinch welds, although for speed and convenience I have been known to use the pinch welds for jacking up, especially when wanting to make quick wheel changes at trackdays or circuit events. Compared with some other cars I’ve owned the pinch weld areas seem relatively less prone to bending/distortion, but maybe this is down to the car being relatively light?
